CD 25: Keeping outboard lower unit from fouling

[Dave Jeffery]

By September (when the sailing really gets good on the Chesapeake) the lower unit of the outboard on my CD 25 is seriously foul, even when aluminum-compatible antifouling paint is applied in late Spring.

It looks as if the simplest solution is to lift it out of the well and clamp it to the horizontal wood beam that supports the traveler.

But...is the traveler beam strong enough? Should it be reinforced?

I've tried to think of some ingenious solution with lifts, slings, tackle, etc., but the motor does not come straight up. And the hatch does not completely open; the backstay is in the way. Also, the motor has to be manipulated in two directions to clear the lower opening. So a straight vertical lift won't work.

I'm of an age where playing The Hulk with the OB is not fun, even if it is still possible.

What am I overlooking? What works?

[CruiseAlong]

Dave,
I have a CD26 outboard at the mouth of the York River, since early spring the engine has been in the water constantly. I had cleaned up the lower skeg, applied a West Epoxy barrier coat then straight Interlux 33 from a quart can over that. That appeared to completely solve any barnacles, would probably eliminate hair if I used the biocide version. The spray version of the "same" item worked ok but not as well. You have barnacles or hair fouling?

[tartansailor]

I do not know if this will work or not, but we have an 8 hp
Honda extra long shaft, and manually lifting this beast is not an option for me.
Neither is leaving it in the well while the boat is moored.

We purchased a snatch block that will ride the back-stay
and guide the sheet.

The topping lift will elevate the boom.

The main sheet will be fitted to lift the engine to the cockpit.

Would anyone care to point out anything we may have missed?

Dick

[Big E]

Mask, Flippers, grill brush...Now get in the drink & do some scraping!!!

[Kemah]

I used Interlux Trilux 33 after applying Interlux Primocon. I followed the steps on the Interlux website for both products carefully. This year, my first regular season with the boat and motor, the lower housing and propellor are free of fouling after more than 2 months continuously in the motor well. (The prop feels slightly slick, but there's no visable slime. ) I'm in Massachusetts in a harbor with normal tidal change.

[Sea Owl]

Dick;

I think Dave Jeffery has expressed some problems with your solution. I have given a lot of thought to doing something similar, but Dave points out things like:

-- The back stay will keep the engine compartment lid from opening enough to be out of the way
-- If you take the lid off, I don't think you will be able to get the engine high enough to clear the boat before having to elevate the boom, bringing the engine forward before it clears the boat, and either hanging up in the well or smacking the side of the compartment
-- If your motor is like mine, and apparently Dave's, you can't do a straight lift anyway. You have to twist and 'angle' the engine to get it clear of the bottom of the well. Hard to do when attached to a block.

I put mine in at the start of the season, and take it out at the end. Takes a strong young man or an older guy like me with help to lift it out or put it in by hand.

One thought I had was perhaps some sort of lift like for an engine used in some garages - two legs, one running along each seat in the cockpit, with an arm arching over the engine will about 4-5 feet above it. Legs provide balance while you attempt to winch up the engine. Small shelf for scotch on lift so when it doesn't work, and you get frustrated, you can have a shot before moving lift and just hauling the #@@???!!! engine out by hand.....

....I just don't think there was ever any intent for that to be an every day (or week) task to put the engine in and out, unless you are lucky enough to be somewhere you could get by on a really small HP one.


Anyway, wish you luck, and I hope somebody proves me wrong!


Good Air to all!-

[Al Levesque]

The first year we had our CD25 we found that tiny seed mussels entered the cooling passages and then grew large enough to completely block cooling flow before the end of the season. The following year we tried anti-fouling paint and seemed to have just as many mussels. The remaining years we took advantage of the small size of our 6hp and stored the engine on foam pads in the starboard locker between every use. The 6hp Evinrude, long shaft, was easy enough to lift and store by hand. Although I did remove the handle. I can't imagine doing the same with the newer engines though.