Asymmetrical Spinnaker on CD31
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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- Location: CD 31 "Loda May"
Asymmetrical Spinnaker on CD31
I would like to try out the asymm that came with my boat. There were no lines or hardware for it, but now I've finally bought that stuff.
I am confused about where I should shackle a tack-line block. My choices seem to be:
On the anchor roller fitting. Pro: it's out front. Con: that part of the bowsprit is forward of where the bobstay attaches below, so I am wondering about strength. If I do this, I am thinking about attaching the block to the pin that crosses above the anchor. My pin is bent and won't come out anyway, so it is basically sort of a permanent eye. I would need to bungie the block up out of the way when I am dealing with the anchor, or remove it
On the pulpit. Pro: again out front. Con: Is this strong enough?
On the fitting which the headstay connects to. Pro: has to be strong enough. Con, of the three holes, the headstay is connected to the forward one. I can put this block aft of that, but then, the line can chafe on the furler's turnbuckle as it runs forward, and there might be some lateral loading on the furler when the asymm is on the opposite side of the boat than the line is. Also, the line has to run thru the pulpit, and has to be on one side or other of the center vertical post. Here again, I wonder about lateral loads on the pulpit while sailing on the opposite tack.
What do folks typically do? My guess is that my situation is pretty much the same as for CD30s and CD32s.
Any input would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Dean
I am confused about where I should shackle a tack-line block. My choices seem to be:
On the anchor roller fitting. Pro: it's out front. Con: that part of the bowsprit is forward of where the bobstay attaches below, so I am wondering about strength. If I do this, I am thinking about attaching the block to the pin that crosses above the anchor. My pin is bent and won't come out anyway, so it is basically sort of a permanent eye. I would need to bungie the block up out of the way when I am dealing with the anchor, or remove it
On the pulpit. Pro: again out front. Con: Is this strong enough?
On the fitting which the headstay connects to. Pro: has to be strong enough. Con, of the three holes, the headstay is connected to the forward one. I can put this block aft of that, but then, the line can chafe on the furler's turnbuckle as it runs forward, and there might be some lateral loading on the furler when the asymm is on the opposite side of the boat than the line is. Also, the line has to run thru the pulpit, and has to be on one side or other of the center vertical post. Here again, I wonder about lateral loads on the pulpit while sailing on the opposite tack.
What do folks typically do? My guess is that my situation is pretty much the same as for CD30s and CD32s.
Any input would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Dean
Dean Abramson
Cape Dory 31 "Loda May"
Falmouth, Maine
Cape Dory 31 "Loda May"
Falmouth, Maine
Option 1.
I've thought about this myself and, if I ever do actually get an asymmetrical spinnaker, I will do exactly what you describe in option 1: shackle a block to the pin on my fancy schmancy Spartan anchor roller. I am certain the pin, roller fitting and sprit on my boat can handle the load and I never would be using the spinnaker and the anchor at the same time.
- Warren Kaplan
- Posts: 1147
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 11:44
- Location: Former owner of Sine Qua Non CD27 #166 1980 Oyster Bay Harbor, NY Member # 317
Andy Denmark of this board wrote a great cruising spinnaker primer. Here's the link. Just what you need!
http://www.pamlico-nc.com/content/spinnakerprimer.htm
http://www.pamlico-nc.com/content/spinnakerprimer.htm
"I desire no more delight, than to be under sail and gone tonight."
(W. Shakespeare, Merchant of Venice)
(W. Shakespeare, Merchant of Venice)
- fenixrises
- Posts: 450
- Joined: Feb 13th, '05, 08:01
- Location: SunShine S2 11c
- Contact:
Hi Dean,
If you have a piece of 3/8"~1/2" three strand nylon use it to make an endless strop. This would be a circle of line with the two ends spliced together or if double braid simply tie it. It should be long enough to circle the bowplank plus about three feet, that would be the circumference of the circle.
Then "lasso" the bowplank. Use the extra length to form a bight in the line on the bottom of the bowplank. Pull the bight up through the hole in the bowplank aft of the anchor roller, if possible. Otherwise pull the bight up through the place where the rode goes through. This will encircle the bowplank and be forward of the head stay. Hopefully nothing will chafe.
Attach your tack fitting/block to the bight in the line. The line is strong enough and flexible, so it will make a fair lead. You might want to experiment with line length first. I usually fly my assym with the head to the masthead and then adjust the tack/luff to length depending on conditions. Often the tack is at least as high as the top of the pulpit. Using a 3:1 tackle on the tack makes it easy to adjust by hand.
I find it handy to put a big old bronze piston hank on the head of the sail with a shackle. This allows you to hank the head of the sail to the headstay, making it more managable when hoisting and lowering the sail, especially if doing so short or single handed.
It is often easier to trip the sail by easing the tack line then releasing the tack fitting. This allows the sail to dump the wind and stream aft. The tack can then be bundled easily as it is lowered in the lee of the main. This requires a snapshackle at the tack fitting to the sail.
Take care,
Fred
If you have a piece of 3/8"~1/2" three strand nylon use it to make an endless strop. This would be a circle of line with the two ends spliced together or if double braid simply tie it. It should be long enough to circle the bowplank plus about three feet, that would be the circumference of the circle.
Then "lasso" the bowplank. Use the extra length to form a bight in the line on the bottom of the bowplank. Pull the bight up through the hole in the bowplank aft of the anchor roller, if possible. Otherwise pull the bight up through the place where the rode goes through. This will encircle the bowplank and be forward of the head stay. Hopefully nothing will chafe.
Attach your tack fitting/block to the bight in the line. The line is strong enough and flexible, so it will make a fair lead. You might want to experiment with line length first. I usually fly my assym with the head to the masthead and then adjust the tack/luff to length depending on conditions. Often the tack is at least as high as the top of the pulpit. Using a 3:1 tackle on the tack makes it easy to adjust by hand.
I find it handy to put a big old bronze piston hank on the head of the sail with a shackle. This allows you to hank the head of the sail to the headstay, making it more managable when hoisting and lowering the sail, especially if doing so short or single handed.
It is often easier to trip the sail by easing the tack line then releasing the tack fitting. This allows the sail to dump the wind and stream aft. The tack can then be bundled easily as it is lowered in the lee of the main. This requires a snapshackle at the tack fitting to the sail.
Take care,
Fred
You should always have an odd number of holes in your boat!
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- Location: Cape Dory 31 Hull No. 30
SURPRISE
Georgetown Maryland
Member Since 2005
Rig Tack On Bow Pulpit Base
Dean:
I have flown the spinnaker many times using the forward upright base of the bow pulpit, port side bale for the lead - the CQR is on the starboard side and I have an aversion to risking tangles, the anchor being lifted majestically from its roller by the spinnaker. The best rig would probably be a snatch block attached to the small bale on the pulpit base, but I just lead it through the bale to the port deck cleat. Has always worked for me and although it puts upward pull on the pulpit base, the major strain is right on the deck cleat. Not real high tech put nothing about my Cape Dory is - well maybe the oil lamp!
I flew the sail solo a few weeks back, first time for that - light breeze of course but still a big sail to haul up and down alone. Ended up pulling it down right in front of a Coast Guard patrol boat, took a quick look aft as I set the wheel brake and jumped forward to gather in the flailing sail. Guess they thought it was a good show when I dunked a good portion of it and not the right time to haul me over and ask to see papers etc!
Bill Sonntag
I have flown the spinnaker many times using the forward upright base of the bow pulpit, port side bale for the lead - the CQR is on the starboard side and I have an aversion to risking tangles, the anchor being lifted majestically from its roller by the spinnaker. The best rig would probably be a snatch block attached to the small bale on the pulpit base, but I just lead it through the bale to the port deck cleat. Has always worked for me and although it puts upward pull on the pulpit base, the major strain is right on the deck cleat. Not real high tech put nothing about my Cape Dory is - well maybe the oil lamp!
I flew the sail solo a few weeks back, first time for that - light breeze of course but still a big sail to haul up and down alone. Ended up pulling it down right in front of a Coast Guard patrol boat, took a quick look aft as I set the wheel brake and jumped forward to gather in the flailing sail. Guess they thought it was a good show when I dunked a good portion of it and not the right time to haul me over and ask to see papers etc!
Bill Sonntag
- Cathy Monaghan
- Posts: 3503
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 08:17
- Location: 1986 CD32 Realization #3, Rahway, NJ, Raritan Bay -- CDSOA Member since 2000. Greenline 39 Electra
- Contact:
Snatch block....
Hi Dean,
We fly our asymmetrical as Bill described. We attach a snatch block to one of the bails at the base of the forwardmost part of the bow pulpit. The tack line runs from the sail down through the block and back to a cleat. You can use one of the deck cleats up forward but if you want to be able to control the height of the tack of the sail from the cockpit, you can run the line back to one of the stern cleats instead.
Here's Realization and her spinnaker last year in Maine. We were heading northward, just west of Islesboro, when Rich Abato snapped these photos.
<center>
<a href="http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c349/ ... .jpg"><img width="540" src="http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c349/ ... 0.jpg"></a>
</center>
Cathy
CD32 Realization, #3
Rahway, NJ
Raritan Bay
We fly our asymmetrical as Bill described. We attach a snatch block to one of the bails at the base of the forwardmost part of the bow pulpit. The tack line runs from the sail down through the block and back to a cleat. You can use one of the deck cleats up forward but if you want to be able to control the height of the tack of the sail from the cockpit, you can run the line back to one of the stern cleats instead.
Here's Realization and her spinnaker last year in Maine. We were heading northward, just west of Islesboro, when Rich Abato snapped these photos.
<center>
<a href="http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c349/ ... .jpg"><img width="540" src="http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c349/ ... 0.jpg"></a>
</center>
Cathy
CD32 Realization, #3
Rahway, NJ
Raritan Bay
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- Joined: Jan 21st, '06, 01:23
- Location: Cape Dory 36 IMAGINE Laurel, Mississippi
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- Posts: 1470
- Joined: Jan 21st, '06, 01:23
- Location: Cape Dory 36 IMAGINE Laurel, Mississippi
Andy's asym article
Warren (and Andy),
That's a great article, but the photo at the top looks suspiciously like a regular spinnaker with a pole
That's a great article, but the photo at the top looks suspiciously like a regular spinnaker with a pole
Regards,
Troy Scott
Troy Scott
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Thanks all
[img]http://www.mainephoto.com/folios/Loda06 ... Detail.jpg[/img]
Bill and Cathy: is this the bale you refer to?
Thanks, everyone!
Dean
Bill and Cathy: is this the bale you refer to?
Thanks, everyone!
Dean
Dean Abramson
Cape Dory 31 "Loda May"
Falmouth, Maine
Cape Dory 31 "Loda May"
Falmouth, Maine
- Steve Laume
- Posts: 4127
- Joined: Feb 13th, '05, 20:40
- Location: Raven1984 Cape Dory 30C Hull #309Noank, CT
- Contact:
I mounted a Windline anchor roller on Raven and have been attaching the tack to the anchor pin. Last trip out it managed to pull the pin which is held in place with a ball indent type of thing. I will be drilling a hole in the upright flange of the roller and installing a shackle for this purpose from now on. The anchor was still held in place by the chain but the tack of the sail got loose and there is great potential to bend the pin. The Spartan roller might work better as far as utilizing the pin.
Fred's idea as always is simple and practical. I would think this would be a great place to use a piece of 1" tubular webbing. It would lessen the possibility of chafe and lock in place nicely. I use a short piece to attach a block to one of the bow cleats for the spinnaker pole down haul. It is flat enough so that it can be left in place without interfering with jack lines or the anchor rode when the cleats are also used for that purpose. Webbing and your pulpit base might be a great combination.
Dean, that Fortress anchor would scare the pants off of me if I had a big free sail flying off the bow. I would love to mount mine similarly but I know it would find it's home in shredded nylon. Others may make this combination work but I would start out with the anchor stowed somewhere else.
I was messing around with an old symmetrical spinnaker on my trip and it was a hoot! I think I need lighter sheets for for lower wind situations, Steve.
Fred's idea as always is simple and practical. I would think this would be a great place to use a piece of 1" tubular webbing. It would lessen the possibility of chafe and lock in place nicely. I use a short piece to attach a block to one of the bow cleats for the spinnaker pole down haul. It is flat enough so that it can be left in place without interfering with jack lines or the anchor rode when the cleats are also used for that purpose. Webbing and your pulpit base might be a great combination.
Dean, that Fortress anchor would scare the pants off of me if I had a big free sail flying off the bow. I would love to mount mine similarly but I know it would find it's home in shredded nylon. Others may make this combination work but I would start out with the anchor stowed somewhere else.
I was messing around with an old symmetrical spinnaker on my trip and it was a hoot! I think I need lighter sheets for for lower wind situations, Steve.
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- Joined: Jan 21st, '06, 01:23
- Location: Cape Dory 36 IMAGINE Laurel, Mississippi
spinnaker protection (scary anchor)
Steve,
What about some kind of canvas "boot" for that scary anchor? Of course it would only be in place when the spinnaker is flying.
What about some kind of canvas "boot" for that scary anchor? Of course it would only be in place when the spinnaker is flying.
Regards,
Troy Scott
Troy Scott
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- Location: CD 31 "Loda May"
You're right!
Wow. Thanks, Steve. I probably wouldn't have thought of that. Not sure where I will put it. But you are right. That has trouble written all over it.
Dean
Dean
Dean Abramson
Cape Dory 31 "Loda May"
Falmouth, Maine
Cape Dory 31 "Loda May"
Falmouth, Maine
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- Location: Cape Dory 36 IMAGINE Laurel, Mississippi
spinnaker dedicated block?
Folks, I wonder if any space could be found on the 'sprit for a through-bolted, dedicated spinnaker tack block.
Regards,
Troy Scott
Troy Scott
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