wires from the mast step aft, cd 30

[hmeyrick]

Earlier this season, I re-wired my mast to universal acclaim within my marina. However I am sad to report that those rewired wires are connected to nothing, because I'm unable to discover the secret to running those wires inside the headliner back aft, and I'm far too much of a wuss to drill a hole through the headliner and run the ugly great wires where anyone could see them. Once you drill a hole, after all, its pretty hard to undrill it.


Using an arrangement of mirrors and flashlights, I can see pretty well inside the headliner under the mast step, through the 4" hole in the head headliner, and from what I can see, it looks as though Cape Dory never intended anyone to retrofit mast wires back through the headliner; there's great wads of what looks like styrofoam (but seems to be a good bit more solid) filling up the space where the headliner turns down to the cabin trunk.


I'd like to connect my fancy new masthead antenna, but I'd really rather prefer to do so unobtrusively. And, if possible, without drilling.

I am sure that, in the collective experience of this board, there is wisdom to be shared. So I ask you: Please share it! There is a holiday weekend coming up, and unless I have a better plan, I may find that after a couple drinks I'll do things with the drill that I might later come to regret.

I thank you all for any help which may be forthcoming.

[barfwinkle]

Using an arrangement of mirrors and flashlights, I can see pretty well inside the headliner under the mast step, through the 4" hole in the head headliner, and from what I can see, it looks as though Cape Dory never intended anyone to retrofit mast wires back through the headliner; there's great wads of what looks like styrofoam (but seems to be a good bit more solid) filling up the space where the headliner turns down to the cabin trunk.

Well at least in a 25D it can be done. On the 25D the 12V panel is located on the port aft cabin bulkhead. I was able to snake all new wire (on piece of triplex and one piece of duples and new coax) by removing the panel, removing the port interior hand rail and with lots of patience and bloody knuckles, was able to "git-r-dun", BUT it was not always easy.

As for the foam stuff, again on the 25D the void surrounding that 4" hole area was filed with something very very akin to cement. I assume to add substance to the mast step.

I used a piece of solid, very stout, stainless wire as a snake.

How do the stand offs for the handrails on a 30 look? On a 25D there are 5 in dividual little stalagtights (sp) to which the handrail is attached. Its hard to explain. For some reason I recall the 30s having a long solid piece of fiberglass liner and not 5 little islands suspended from the cabin top.

Anyway, I know some of this is confusing and apologize. Good luck

[Carl Thunberg]

I have a CD30 like you and I installed a masthead anchor light this spring. I tried in vain with an electricians snake and finally gave up. In the head, on the starboard side near the bulkhead, I drilled a 3/8 in. hole through the headliner, angled toward the mast step. I then fished the wire through and made my connection to the mast wiring. I then used some small discrete wire staples and ran the wire tight to the bulkhead/headliner joint to the cabinet above the lav sink. From there, you can get the wire inside the cabinet, through the bulkhead and into the main salon where you can tuck the wire up inside that space behind the liner and the hull where the doghouse meets the deck.

Tip: When you drill the hole, hold a bucket under the drill to catch the pieces of fiberglass. If you don't do this, the bits and pieces will drop into the shower grate and into the bilge.

In the finished job, the wires are exposed for a little more than a foot, but it's in a location where no one sees it. I'm pretty happy with the finished product and I'm REALLY happy not to deal with a lantern on a halyard any more.

[Gary M]

I've spent the last 25 years or so running small wires in homes so they seem to disappear.

I wish I lived close by because I'd be glad to take a look but it seems like Carl has found a great wire path for his project.

Any time you plan to drill a hole, its not a bad idea to drill a smaller exploratory hole first. You can push a wire up into a very small hole to get some idea of what is up there before you drill the hole bigger.

Over the years I've bought a lot of wire running tools from this company. You might get a kick looking at their products but they might be a little pricey for a one time job.

http://www.lsdinc.com/content/main#

Good Luck

[hmeyrick]

Thank you all for your quick replies.

Bill, yes- the 30 has a continous headliner except where it is interrupted by the bulkheads around the head. The handrails in the 30 are aft of the head, so they don't really come into play here.

Carl, I am glad that I'm not the only one who has found snaking a line difficult! Where exactly did you drill the hole? If you only have a foot or so of wire exposed, it must be right over near the side? As the ceiling curves rather gently down to become the side, where exactly did you decide to place it? How close to the bulkhead? The nearest inch or so of the headliner to the bulkhead angles down, I assume this is to cover the joint/tabbing between the bulkhead and the coachroof, and so I'm sort of reluctant to drill there. Sorry for all these questions, but it's nice to discuss this with someone with experience BEFORE I reach for my power drill!

That wretched styrofoam/cement, I suppose, must completely fill those spaces between the portlight and bulkhead inside the liner- as there's only a few inches of glass either side of the portlight opening, no doubt Cape Dory saw the need to reinforce the area- and so I'm starting to think that it really is impossible to snake a line through... And here I was all along thinking it was my own ineptitude with the plumber's fish that was to blame.

Gary- thanks for the exploratory hole idea- I shall try it

-Huw

[Ron M.]

You can easily snake wires from your panel behind and along the liner on the port side and into the head compartment without drilling holes. I run all my mast wiring down the dorade to a small teak aux. panel I made with terminal blocks for the 12v wires and room for the antenna cable.
The mast wires exit the mast port side, 1' up. Air conditioning conduit and fittings take it from the mast to the starb. side of the dorade and then down to the panel. I made a teak conduit that runs on the head bulkhead to the aux. panel. Did this 5 years ago and it works well....no more mashed up and stretched wires dangling about.
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[Gary M]

I know this won't help Hmeyrick, but one trick you can try to fish wires between the liner and the deck is by using a "wet noodle" and a magnet.

Get your self a length of that ball chain that is used to turn house lamps on and off (the wet noodle.) Feed the chain into a hole in the liner, then use a strong magnet on the outside of the liner to drag the chain to the exit hole.

Once you have the chain in place use it to drag a sturdier wire or string through to use as a pull wire.

Gary

[Carl Thunberg]

Well, my boat is 40 miles away from my home and this weekend I'm sailing my 420 on a lake, so I won't get back to the boat for a while to measure it. I can't tell you exactly where I drilled the hole, other than I eyeballed it where it would have the least visual impact and where I knew it would work.

That being said, the wet noodle idea sounds really cool. Damn those electricians are clever people. Ron's idea sounds good too. Mine may not be the best solution, but I'm happy with it.

[Oswego John]

....and think about pulling an extra, stout cord along with the new wiring. The drag cord will make rewiring or adding new wire that much easier next time.

Good luck,
O J

[Ron M.]

On board I keep a coiled snake........made from HVAC sized nylon ties 3' long. I have 2 taped together with the locking head removed. These are a 1/2" wide and flat. I have replaced all of the wiring and added much more and haven't found a place on board I could not snake,(except the cabintop which I eliminated and re-routed).It's stiff enough to push or pull and won't scratch the wood work.
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