Stanchion Base Set Screws

barfwinkle · Post by **barfwinkle** » Apr 26th, '08, 17:52

Happy Spring

Does anyone know where I can get some of the above? Are they standard stuff (other than SS)?

Tanks

bs

Dave H · Post by **Dave H** » Apr 27th, '08, 08:25

My recollection is that they are 10/24 x 1 3/8 stainless.

jbenagh · Post by **jbenagh** » Apr 27th, '08, 16:48

If they are the same as the CD25, they are 1/4-28, 3/16 length, with 1/8 Allen drive. I found a blister pack of 10 somewhere (Hamilton Marine or West Marine) sold as "lifeline stanchion set screws, common", which leads me to believe they are a somewhat standard size. I bought a bag of 100 from Jamestown for about the same price.

Hope this helps.

Jeff

barfwinkle · Post by **barfwinkle** » Jul 11th, '08, 16:37

just a Follow-up.

The set screws on my 25D are 1/4 x 20 x 3/16. Order 25 from McMasters&Carr for 6 bucks plus shipping.

Fair Winds

mgphl52 · Post by **mgphl52** » Jul 11th, '08, 21:17

Great find Bill!

If anyone else is looking for them, put 92313A532 into the "Find Products" field at http://www.mcmaster.com/.

-michael

barfwinkle · Post by **barfwinkle** » Jul 12th, '08, 07:48

and if anyone needs some let me know. I sure dont need 25. I'll mail 'em free to a good home.

Fair Winds

jpbartle · Post by **jpbartle** » Jul 12th, '08, 23:35

Hope I'm not hi-jacking this post, but it is somewhat related...

I've looked extensively thru this site and on the web for suggestions about a screwdriver of a size appropriate for the heads on the deck-mounted hardware. I've checked Napa, Snapon, MAC Tools, Lowes, Sears, etc -- without success. I'd ideally like a 3/8" socket fitting to a standard (ie., slotted) screwdriver head.

Would appreciate any suggestions on this / Thankyou.

Ron M. · Post by **Ron M.** » Jul 13th, '08, 07:28

I've done this and it worked fine. get a 3/8 socket with a 1/4" hex screw bit. Also obtain a set of 1/4" hex driver bits, (the short ones). The unwanted bit can be removed and replaced with the type you desire. They are held in with a retaining spring or a set screw.......usually.
I'm surprised you couldn't get one at Sears/craftsmen.
________
Lolol

jpbartle · Post by **jpbartle** » Jul 13th, '08, 12:12

Thanks for the response Ron; I've got something similar to what you mention; for the philips type heads on the stanchions.

What I've not been able to find is a standard screwdriver of sufficient size for the chainplate and cleat hardware on deck. This is a standard (ie., straight, slotted) head, to match the screws which are approximately 1/2" to 3/4" in diameter, with a 2-3 mm width.

Wondered what others use to get these suckers loose. Am in process of rebedding all hardware and want to avoid stripping these heads with an insufficiently sized screwdriver.

Oswego John · Post by **Oswego John** » Jul 13th, '08, 13:05

Jonathan,

I wonder if something like this would do?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/D ... mber=96329

If you want to use 3/8", insert a 1/2" - 3/8" reducer in line.

As for myself, when I have any heavy torquing to do, I use a hand brace with a screwdriver bit in the chuck.

Good luck,
O J

jpbartle · Post by **jpbartle** » Jul 13th, '08, 21:35

John -- those bits are exactly what I was looking for. Thankyou.

I'm not sure what you mean by a hand brace, believe you are referring to using a cordless drill with screwdriver bits and then some kind of supporting brace material.

Relative to just having a screwdriver in hand -- I've found that being able use a ratchet gives a lot smoother control and leverage for backing them out. Am trying to keep the screws in a state that they can be reused. A 3/8th adapter will allow me to use the torque wrench if needed upon reassembly.

Thank you again for the tip...

Oswego John · Post by **Oswego John** » Jul 13th, '08, 21:54

Hi Jonathan,

Anybody who knows what a hand brace is, is an old coot of the first order.

Here is an idea of what we worked with long before the battery powered tools came on the scene.

http://shop.ebay.com/items/_W0QQ_nkwZbr ... omZQQ_mdoZ

They were variable speed, too.

Good luck,
O J

jpbartle · Post by **jpbartle** » Jul 13th, '08, 22:08

Ahh, fine business on the hand brace. Variable speed indeed; rechargeable too I'd say -- via a good glass of lemonade!

Regards to you,

Ron M. · Post by **Ron M.** » Jul 14th, '08, 08:22

I removed all deck hard ware before I painted the topsides a few years back. What I used to get the large slotted screws out was an old screwdriver 10" long and I ground the blade to an exact fit. The shaft is 5/16 " square, which allows it to be gripped with a wrench for added torque. With some down pressure and the leverage the wrench provided they came out without much of a fight. Sometimes a socket will walk out of the slot.
________
Mexico Hotels

bottomscraper · Post by **bottomscraper** » Jul 14th, '08, 15:07

Oswego John wrote:Hi Jonathan,

Anybody who knows what a hand brace is, is an old coot of the first order.

Here is an idea of what we worked with long before the battery powered tools came on the scene.

http://shop.ebay.com/items/_W0QQ_nkwZbr ... omZQQ_mdoZ

They were variable speed, too.

Good luck,
O J

I inherited about ten hand braces from my Dad, I kept 3 and sold the rest on eBay. They typically don't go for much unless they are in very good condition. A real handy tool to have around!

Another favorite of mine is the Stanley #41 Yankee push drill. It weighs less than just the battery from my cordless, holds all the drill bits and never runs out of juice. It's limited to small holes about 3/16" max but it's great for drilling pilot holes for wood screws.

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