The cabin sole of my CD25 is badly delaminated. I'm considering two approaches to repairing it. The first would be to remove the top layer and rotten core then glass in a new core. The second would be to remove the whole existing fiberglass floor (exposing the bilge) and replace with a wooden floor.
If I choose the second approach, what will I find beneath the existing fiberglass floor when I remove it? Are there structural cross pieces that could support a wooden floor?
I'd also appreciate any opinions or suggestions regarding either approach to the repair.
Thanks.
CD25 Cabin Sole
Moderator: Jim Walsh
- ronellis
- Posts: 33
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 13:03
- Location: Starry Eyes - CD25 #448 (Dad's Boat) - Port Aransas, TX
- Contact:
CD25 Cabin Sole
Statue of Liberty play
It only works once
Don't throw it away
It only works once
Don't throw it away
- tartansailor
- Posts: 1527
- Joined: Aug 30th, '05, 13:55
- Location: CD25, Renaissance, Milton, DE
Cabin Sole
Hi Ron,
Interesting topic.
To answer your first question, I think that your 1st idea is the way to go. Take off the top layer.
The core probably got penetrated from the table support flange not being sealed properly. I have the same situation, but not as severe.
Just note the thickness of the balsa used, and re-laminate with epoxy for greater strength.
In your 2nd question, I do not believe that there is a cross piece, at least on my boat, as I looked with a mirror. In fact that is where we keep gallon jugs of bottled water.
Good luck with what ever approach you take.
Dick
Interesting topic.
To answer your first question, I think that your 1st idea is the way to go. Take off the top layer.
The core probably got penetrated from the table support flange not being sealed properly. I have the same situation, but not as severe.
Just note the thickness of the balsa used, and re-laminate with epoxy for greater strength.
In your 2nd question, I do not believe that there is a cross piece, at least on my boat, as I looked with a mirror. In fact that is where we keep gallon jugs of bottled water.
Good luck with what ever approach you take.
Dick
- ronellis
- Posts: 33
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 13:03
- Location: Starry Eyes - CD25 #448 (Dad's Boat) - Port Aransas, TX
- Contact:
Dick, thanks for your reply.
I think I will stick with repairing the fiberglass instead of replacing with wood.
I have questions about core material. I can easily obtain cedar (2x4 or 2x6) to slice into 3/8" end-grain pieces. How should I arrange them between the bottom and top skins? Do I trowel in some epoxy on the bottom layer and lay the pieces like tile? Is there a specific method I should use?
Are there any alternatives to cedar that I might be able to find on short notice at a Home Depot, West Marine, or similar store?
Thanks in advance.
Ron
I think I will stick with repairing the fiberglass instead of replacing with wood.
I have questions about core material. I can easily obtain cedar (2x4 or 2x6) to slice into 3/8" end-grain pieces. How should I arrange them between the bottom and top skins? Do I trowel in some epoxy on the bottom layer and lay the pieces like tile? Is there a specific method I should use?
Are there any alternatives to cedar that I might be able to find on short notice at a Home Depot, West Marine, or similar store?
Thanks in advance.
Ron
Statue of Liberty play
It only works once
Don't throw it away
It only works once
Don't throw it away
Why screw around slicing end grain cedar ? Defender, or another supplier will ship you Baltec balsa core sheets. You also have the option of high tech panels with honeycomb cores,(trade name escapes me).
My sole, beneath the teak and holly ply is not balsa core. I would use 5/8" exterior plywood coated with epoxy. It could be glassed in place or fabricate stringers to which you could fasten it to.
________
Honda Xl175
My sole, beneath the teak and holly ply is not balsa core. I would use 5/8" exterior plywood coated with epoxy. It could be glassed in place or fabricate stringers to which you could fasten it to.
________
Honda Xl175
Last edited by Ron M. on Feb 11th, '11, 05:53, edited 1 time in total.
- ronellis
- Posts: 33
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 13:03
- Location: Starry Eyes - CD25 #448 (Dad's Boat) - Port Aransas, TX
- Contact:
Ordering from Defender is a really good suggestion, but I need to find something that I can source locally (today or tomorrow).
I can get exterior (not marine) plywood if that is a suitable core material. It probably would not save me much time over the end grain cedar as I have the tools to make short work of a cedar board. I guess the question is, which would be a better material given the options I have?
Any installation suggestions or opinions regarding either material (or others) are appreciated.
Thanks.
I can get exterior (not marine) plywood if that is a suitable core material. It probably would not save me much time over the end grain cedar as I have the tools to make short work of a cedar board. I guess the question is, which would be a better material given the options I have?
Any installation suggestions or opinions regarding either material (or others) are appreciated.
Thanks.
Statue of Liberty play
It only works once
Don't throw it away
It only works once
Don't throw it away
- tartansailor
- Posts: 1527
- Joined: Aug 30th, '05, 13:55
- Location: CD25, Renaissance, Milton, DE
Go with the plywood
Because I think that it has greater rigidity to support your table.
Just be certain to coat the plywood with as many coats of epoxy
to the point where you are certain that it is water proof, after you shape it to fit.
After you remove the top skin and rotted balsa, try and preserve the bottom layer of fiberglass as best as can be done.
I just went through the same regimen with my cockpit seats.
Do not make the mistake that I made in trying to glue in top and bottom in one operation.
Glue the plywood down. Cure.
Fabricate (laminate) fiberglass over.
Fine finish sand, and hopefully re-use the top layer.
Hope this helps.
Dick
Just be certain to coat the plywood with as many coats of epoxy
to the point where you are certain that it is water proof, after you shape it to fit.
After you remove the top skin and rotted balsa, try and preserve the bottom layer of fiberglass as best as can be done.
I just went through the same regimen with my cockpit seats.
Do not make the mistake that I made in trying to glue in top and bottom in one operation.
Glue the plywood down. Cure.
Fabricate (laminate) fiberglass over.
Fine finish sand, and hopefully re-use the top layer.
Hope this helps.
Dick