Auto Helm installation on CD22

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Gary M
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Joined: Jan 14th, '06, 13:01
Location: "ZackLee"
1982 CD22
Marina del Rey, CA

Auto Helm installation on CD22

Post by Gary M »

Hi everyone!

I'm back to the experts for some advice.

I'm getting ready to install an Auto Helm 1000 on my CD22.

If I install the Auto Helm tiller pin at the proper 16 inches from the center of the rudder post the pin will fall about an inch or less below the Auto Helm control which is mounted on the cockpit seat. Auto Helm says this 16 inches is critical or I would just move the pin forward and inch or two, thus raising the pin because the tiller raises as it moves forward.

Auto Helm does make a bracket that raises the pin two inches but it costs $40 and I think it looks pretty bad plus I don't need two inches.

I seems my choices are:

Tighten the bolt and nut which attaches the tiller to the rudder so the tiller doesn't move so easily.

Some how make a stop so the tiller doesn't drop down so far.

Secure the Auto Helm and the pin with a rubber band or something so they stay connected.

Buy the bracket!

Any Ideas?

I figure some one has had to deal with this issue in the past.

Gary
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John Vigor
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Tighten the tiller

Post by John Vigor »

Gary, tighten the nut that holds that tiller to the rudder post. That's the simplest and most elegant solution.

It's the first thing I do when I get a new boat. You ought to be able to move the tiller vertically into any position and have it stay there.

I have in the past glued a plastic/rubber wedge into the tiller's rudder-head fitting to stop the tiller falling too low. I used one of those squares you buy in a pack of four to stick onto the feet of a table or chair to stop it scuffing the floor. But tightening up the tiller is a better bet.

Cheers,

John Vigor
seadawg
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Joined: May 6th, '06, 20:05
Location: Cape Dory 22D
Corpus Christi, Tx.

Auto-Helm

Post by seadawg »

Good Morning,

I do what Mr. John does...tighten the tiller bolt for drag. I also made a stop with a small piece of aluminum drilled and taped in the tiller base. It is a dissimilar metal and it looks slightly chalky after 6 years but with the thickness being about 1/8" it is not a problem. I installed the Raymarine 1000+ autopilot. The auto-pilot mounting pin is installed on the port cockpit locker and is backed up underneath using marine plywood. Raymarine uses a pin in the tiller arm to attach the actuator. Cheers, Charlie
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Gary M
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1982 CD22
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And one more question

Post by Gary M »

Thanks for the replies, I'll tighten the tiller bolt and look to make a stop of some sort.

Next question:

For the tiller pin and AH mounting socket, the installation instructions say to drill a hole and insert the pin or socket using epoxy.

I'm making my first fitting on a piece of scrap wood and noticed, as expected the fit is very tight. I wonder how will epoxy get into the hole and secure the pin or socket? Won't the epoxy just be pushed away as I press in the pin or socket?

My plan is to widen the hole just a touch so the pin and socket slip in more easily. Then coat the hole and pin before inserting into the hole.

What do you think? Am I on the right track.

By the way, Auto Helm answered my questions fast when I wanted to know the model number of the pin and socket but are now ignoring me. I guess because I'm installing an older product.

Thanks Again,

Gary
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John Vigor
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Right track

Post by John Vigor »

Gary, you're on the right track. Most of the epoxy will be pushed out as the pin or socket goes in, but enough will remain to make a solid fit when it cures.

To help things along, try to coat the insides of the holes in the teak with wet epoxy a few minutes in advance of setting the pin/socket in place--long enough for the wood to soak up resin. This is so the dry wood will absorb as much epoxy as it needs, and won't starve the final glue joint.

Roughen the pin and socket lightly with sandpaper or a fine file to give the epoxy a better grip, and coat them with epoxy before you push them in.

Cheers,

John Vigor
seadawg
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Joined: May 6th, '06, 20:05
Location: Cape Dory 22D
Corpus Christi, Tx.

Auto-Helm

Post by seadawg »

Though my 22D has the Raymarine AP, it also uses a pin pressed into the tiller arm. The pin was a tight fit also which is what you want...you don't want any possibility of slop. The epoxy is a safeguard to make sure the pin doesn't slip. In fact if as I recall I used a "C" clamp to carefully press the pin into the tiller arm. The spacer that I mentioned previously holds the AP actuator exactly horizontal. I am not an AP expert and some others on this board are. This method worked for me and has lasted a long time. I hope it helps you, Cheers, Charlie
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Gary M
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1982 CD22
Marina del Rey, CA

Mine is a Raymarine as well

Post by Gary M »

Charlie,
Just clarifying. I'm installing a Raymarine AutoHelm 1000. Maybe just like yours!

To my knowledge the next model was the ST1000 and then the ST1000+.

A friend bought it for me on ebay and it looks like new and works well on my work bench. I'll soon find out!

Gary
seadawg
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Joined: May 6th, '06, 20:05
Location: Cape Dory 22D
Corpus Christi, Tx.

Auto-Helm

Post by seadawg »

Gary, mine is the + version. Initially I did have a problem with it that was my fault. This auto-pilot is fairly light duty even though it is rated for our boats. I let the auto-pilot steer the boat in strong winds, close hauled with too much sail and weather helm which managed to strip the internal drive belts. I don't do that anymore. It's better to reef or let the main sail out to get a balanced helm. Then I can eat lunch or whatever and no further problem. It is very handy when used like this and I know you will be pleased with it. Cheers, Charlie
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Gary M
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Joined: Jan 14th, '06, 13:01
Location: "ZackLee"
1982 CD22
Marina del Rey, CA

Thanks for the advise, but I made a rookie mistake!!

Post by Gary M »

Thanks to John I shaved down a coffee stirrer and used it to coat the teak before inserting the pin. I also roughed up the pin with some sandpaper before inserting.

Thightening the tiller also solved the problem of the tiller being slightly too low. Now it holds in any posistion I want it but I may loosen it up a half a turn for use when I don't plan to use the auto helm

Thanks to Charlie, I brought a C clamp with me to the boat just in case and it turns out it worked perfect for seating the pin the last 1/8 th of an inch.

I drilled the hole for the receiver and was surprised to find the cock pit seat is indeed balsa core so I used a technique I learned on this board to seal the wood in epoxy before moving ahead.

Everything seemed to be proceeding smartly until this morning when I went down to the boat to try it all out.

When I mounted the Auto Helm I realized I was way off in placing the receptical on the seat.

I don't know how this happened, I was trying to be so careful but instead to 90 degrees to the tiller I'm 86 degrees to the tiller. Dang Nab it anyway!! :(

Everything works but the mistake is going to bother me. I'm trying to think of the best way to correct it, or maybe just leave it alone.

If I install another receptical on the seat, I'll have to look at two or remove one and repair the seat. Hmmmmmm, what to do, what shall I do??

I still have to wire it up but that will be the easy part.

Thanks,
Gary
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mgphl52
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First... give it a try!

Post by mgphl52 »

Hi Gary,

Before getting too worried about the 4 degree error, I suggest you give it a go as it is. If it does not track properly on both tacks, then I'd consider moving the pin on the tiller. The prior hole could filled with a small piece of teak and smoothed out. Plus I suspect that pin is easier to install than the receiver. Even if you are off a 1/2 inch or so on the radius, I don't know of many folks that steer exactly within a 4 degree margin! :D
-michael & Toni CDSOA #789
s/v KAYLA CD28 #318
2012 FLSTC Heritage Classic
Niceville FL
+30° 30' 24.60", -86° 26' 32.10"
"Just because it worked, doesn't mean it works." -me
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seadawg
Posts: 81
Joined: May 6th, '06, 20:05
Location: Cape Dory 22D
Corpus Christi, Tx.

Auto-Helm

Post by seadawg »

Gary, I think I would leave it alone for now, go ahead and get it wired up and working to see if you have any other bugs. I don't think I would leave it like that for the long term. The pin should be x distance from the tiller pivot and the actuator should be 90 degrees to the centerline of the ship with the rudder centered. If your 1000 is like the + you will be calibrating it with the compass you have but I'm not sure exactly what features the straight 1000 has. Cheers, Charlie
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Gary M
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Joined: Jan 14th, '06, 13:01
Location: "ZackLee"
1982 CD22
Marina del Rey, CA

Happy Ending

Post by Gary M »

I finished the wiring project and it turned out great.

Then I took a visiting friend out for a harbor tour and showed him my new auto helm.

When I mounted it on the seat and tiller I couldn't believe my eyes! It was perfect. It's exactly 90 degrees to the tiller. Am I going nuts.

My friend said "I don't know the problem it looks perfect to me."

Then the answer came to me. I pulled the tiller up just a little and there is what I was looking at the day of installation. There was nothing wrong with the auto helm installation but the tiller was in the wrong position.

I was so used to the tiller being lose I didn't think it could be holding a higher position.

Now I'm happy again! :wink:
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