Okay, I'll admit it from the start, outboards intimidate me. That's why I sail. Living in the land of 10,000 outboards makes the problem even more embarrassing, it's hard to admit my ignorance publicly. I bought my CD26 about a year ago, it has a Yamaha 9.9 with electric start, alternator, all that good stuff. The previous owners have probably been about average in their maintenance habits. I did nothing to the motor last season and nothing after haul out. I feel a bit guilty about that, but I'm willing to make amends this year. What, aside from an oil change, should I do this spring? How much can I do without hauling the motor out of the well? Are there any tricks for doing maintenance with the motor in place?
rpassmore42@hotmail.com
Routine servicing of CD26 outboard
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Dana
Re: Routine servicing of CD26 outboard
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Rich,
You may have already seen my discussion on my Yamaha 9.9 on my CD26.
If not take a look at the web address below. It's an 85 FT9.9EXK which is the four stroke, 25 inch skeg "sail version". I have done all of the maintenance myself over the years with the help of the factory shop manual. It is, in my opinion, a very reliable engine with lots of thrust.
By the term "land of 10,000 outboard motors" are you fresh water or salt (mine is in salt water use. For the most part, I only perform maintenance on it once a year. It stays in the engine well for the entire season (Call it May 1 thru Nov 30).
For fresh water I would recommend:
1. oil change each year. Change the oil plug strainer "plug" every two years.
2. new zinc installed at bottom of anti-caviation plate depending on its corrosion (mine is every two years).
3. water pump impeller change every two years.
4. Touch up paint plus reapplication of anti-foulant primer and paint coat on lower unit.
5. Spark plugs every two years....
6. Lower and upper gear oil seals (shaft) replacement every 7 years and shift lever boot next to water pump casing.
7. Change lower unit gear oil every year and look at drainage oil for water (comes out "creamy yellow". Water means lower unit oil leak via shift lever boot or gear oil shaft seals.
8. Cooling water thermosat replacement every 5 years or at least tested in a pan of water.
9. Timing belt inspection for wear.
10. Grease the motor mount clamps and stearing gear!!!!
For salt water:
1. Those items above plus...
2. Inspection of inside of lower exhaust guide casing (that's the entire lower skeg not including in the lower unit) for internal corrosion. This about $220 if you replace it yourself.
3. Inspection of the oil pan and exhaust pipe which is at the bottom of the engine head inside the lower exhaust guide casing above for corrosion. As with the lower casing, this may need replacement every seven years. This is about $175 for the oil pan. I can not remember how much the exhaust pipe was. May have to replace every 7 years of salt water use.
4. I have had to replace the electronic ignition system (coil and electronic package)at approx the 11 year mark. The motor stopped running or stalled after warmup. Typical of electronics. This was biggest cost at $225.
5. You should run the engine is fresh water at the end of each year to flush out salt deposits.
darenius@aol.com
Rich,
You may have already seen my discussion on my Yamaha 9.9 on my CD26.
If not take a look at the web address below. It's an 85 FT9.9EXK which is the four stroke, 25 inch skeg "sail version". I have done all of the maintenance myself over the years with the help of the factory shop manual. It is, in my opinion, a very reliable engine with lots of thrust.
By the term "land of 10,000 outboard motors" are you fresh water or salt (mine is in salt water use. For the most part, I only perform maintenance on it once a year. It stays in the engine well for the entire season (Call it May 1 thru Nov 30).
For fresh water I would recommend:
1. oil change each year. Change the oil plug strainer "plug" every two years.
2. new zinc installed at bottom of anti-caviation plate depending on its corrosion (mine is every two years).
3. water pump impeller change every two years.
4. Touch up paint plus reapplication of anti-foulant primer and paint coat on lower unit.
5. Spark plugs every two years....
6. Lower and upper gear oil seals (shaft) replacement every 7 years and shift lever boot next to water pump casing.
7. Change lower unit gear oil every year and look at drainage oil for water (comes out "creamy yellow". Water means lower unit oil leak via shift lever boot or gear oil shaft seals.
8. Cooling water thermosat replacement every 5 years or at least tested in a pan of water.
9. Timing belt inspection for wear.
10. Grease the motor mount clamps and stearing gear!!!!
For salt water:
1. Those items above plus...
2. Inspection of inside of lower exhaust guide casing (that's the entire lower skeg not including in the lower unit) for internal corrosion. This about $220 if you replace it yourself.
3. Inspection of the oil pan and exhaust pipe which is at the bottom of the engine head inside the lower exhaust guide casing above for corrosion. As with the lower casing, this may need replacement every seven years. This is about $175 for the oil pan. I can not remember how much the exhaust pipe was. May have to replace every 7 years of salt water use.
4. I have had to replace the electronic ignition system (coil and electronic package)at approx the 11 year mark. The motor stopped running or stalled after warmup. Typical of electronics. This was biggest cost at $225.
5. You should run the engine is fresh water at the end of each year to flush out salt deposits.
darenius@aol.com