Sensibulb bargain

rtbates · Post by **rtbates** » May 28th, '08, 08:45

Evergreen wrote:Ok, please forgive me for being ignorant, but please explain something to me. I have the standard, old style dome and bell shaped light fixtures on my CD36 that I also see in the photos of other Cape Dorys. Question: If I were to get "Sensibulbs" what else would I need? Could I just get the "Scad bayonet to G4 socket adapter" also sold on the site or do I have to get a whole new fixture and install it and change the wires over to it????? Also, while we are at it - is it possible to change out the bow and stern running light bulbs for LEDs without changing the fixtures? The current bulbs look like large capsules with the contacts at each end.

I have wanted to go LED for a while but don't know much about it. Any input would be appreciated.

Thanks,

I got my nav light LED replacement bulbs from doctor LEDhttp://doctorled.com/. IF you have aquasignal series 40 or 25 they have direct replacements. AND they are much brighter than the regular bulbs.

Steve Laume · Post by **Steve Laume** » May 28th, '08, 09:01

It would be great if these things were available at any time. I am definitely good for three and might want to change over all of the dome lights. I now use the little reading lights all the time for general lighting because I changed them to halogen and they draw slightly less power. It would be great to be able to feel comfortable with the domes on all the time. If I did a few and could easily get more at a discounted price I am sure they would all be replaced eventually. Once a good number of people on this board changed bulbs and reported on their results I am sure the chandlery would have no problem selling off a case or two.

I think they would sell better than the shorts, Steve.

Troy Scott · Post by **Troy Scott** » May 28th, '08, 09:55

Has anyone spoken to the Chandlery about this?

Joe CD MS 300 · Post by **Joe CD MS 300** » May 31st, '08, 05:50

I have replaced several dome lights and just bought two lights to replace the cabin reading lights and can attest to their brightness. The color of the lights is very close to what you are accustomed to with bulbs. The dome fixture have the added feature of having two settings: one light or both. The dome light in the pilothouse has both a white and red light. I'm real happy with them. Also bought a LED anchor light from them which has a photo cell which turns the anchor light off at dawn.

Right now all I have left to replace are two dome lights and two reading light bulbs. I'm in for two if someone needs to fill out a case.

Bob L · Post by **Bob L** » Jun 3rd, '08, 07:44

I'm good for three + adapters. Does that bring the count down to 9?
Is our Chandlery reading this thread? Do they have any thing to contribute to this discussion?

Bob

Paul D. · Post by **Paul D.** » Jun 3rd, '08, 20:54

I'll go for two plus bayonet adapters. I have yet to use one in the reading lamps but they really do work well in the standard old CD dome lamps. 2/10 of an amp hour as opposed to 1.5 amp hour.

If I could get one of these in my anchor light I would climb the mast in a swell. Well, maybe not in a swell, but they are good.

Paul

hmeyrick · Post by **hmeyrick** » Jun 3rd, '08, 21:38

I've read with interest previous posts regarding the Sensibulb (although I suspect "Dollarsibulb"- if not actually even "Beelzibulb"- may be a name more in keeping with the Truth-in-Advertising laws) and given as how I've just spent a ridiculous sum fitting an LED tricolor/anchor light, it only makes sense to spend a ridiculous sum on LED bulbs that I may actually use.

The one concern I have, that I'd like to ask of those who'd know, is aesthetically, the incandescent bulbs in my copper-coloured readings lights throw a cone-shaped beam of warm light over the teak which, frankly, charms my socks off. How does the Sensibulb compare? Also- and I don't mean to sound petty- but on the SS website the Sensibulb seems to be a squarish object of unattractive utilitarian looks- rather like a disembowelled cellphone- how does such a newfangled contraption look in a CD when it is not turned on?

If you can reassure my doubting nature, I will do all I can to help raise the number of fixtures ordered to ensure a healthy discount for all.

Evergreen · Post by **Evergreen** » Jun 12th, '08, 20:20

Hello:

Since we will very soon be leaving on a four month cruise on our CD36 we are going ahead and ordering some Scensibulbs with adapters for our overhead dome lights.

Question: Does anyone know for sure how many contacts are on the base of the old incandescent bulbs of the dome lights found in most Cape Dorys?

Unfortunately, we live 15 hours from our boat so we can't just run down to check out the number of contacts.

Thanks,

Troy Scott · Post by **Troy Scott** » Jun 12th, '08, 23:35

Philip and Sharon,

Most of the original lamps used 1142 style bulbs, which have two contacts on the end and no electrical connection to the cylindrical section. The two "tits" on the cylinder are at the same distance from the end. These bulbs are variously referred to as 15D, S8, and double-contact bayonet base. 15D refers to the 15mm diameter of the metal base. Bayonet base refers to the insert and twist bulb installation. I have no idea what S8 means. Sailors Solutions sells an adapter that will allow you to connect the G4 plug from the Sensibulb. However, there is also the option of just connecting the wires from the Sensibulb directly to the wires to the lamp, bypassing all the superfluous sockets and connectors.

Troy Scott · Post by **Troy Scott** » Jun 12th, '08, 23:36

Philip and Sharon,

Most of the original lamps used 1142 style bulbs, which have two contacts on the end and no electrical connection to the cylindrical section. The two "tits" on the cylinder are at the same distance from the end. These bulbs are variously referred to as 15D, S8, and double-contact bayonet base. 15D refers to the 15mm diameter of the metal base. Bayonet base refers to the insert and twist bulb installation. I have no idea what S8 means. Sailors Solutions sells an adapter that will allow you to connect the G4 plug from the Sensibulb. However, there is also the option of just connecting the wires from the Sensibulb directly to the wires to the lamp, bypassing all the superfluous sockets and connectors.

Evergreen · Post by **Evergreen** » Jun 13th, '08, 05:41

Troy:

Excellent. That is just what I needed to know. Thanks so much.

Joe CD MS 300 · Post by **Joe CD MS 300** » Jun 13th, '08, 09:50

I'm out of the pool now. Sailors solutions sent me a two bulb order twice in error. Since I had them, I figurered its easier to pay for them then go throug the hassel of returning them. One dome light is all I need right now to be totally LED on the boat (other than the running lights).

tmsc · Post by **tmsc** » Jun 13th, '08, 18:57

Has anyone tried these? Looks to be a notable difference in price.

http://www.superbrightleds.com/other_bulbs.htm

Troy Scott · Post by **Troy Scott** » Jun 13th, '08, 21:26

Lee,

I bought the Super Bright G4-WWHP6 described here:

http://www.superbrightleds.com/specs/G4-W6HP_other.htm

This is a very good light. This is a rare find in LED lighting. For $15 it's about like a 5 watt zenon, compared to the Sensibulb which is about like a 10 watt zenon. They are about the same color. Either makes a nice light; not quite the nice warm incandescent glow that makes our teak so pretty at night, but far better than the hideous blue white LEDs of the past, which make your green upholstery blue, your teak yucky and are too dim to see by. If you order one be careful to click on the WARM WHITE one and NOT the COOL WHITE. Their system makes it too easy to get the wrong one. Check your email order confirmation to make sure they get it right. Another thing: to align it properly in the ABI fixture I had to put a double bend in both electrodes. Bend them correctly ONCE.

The Super Bright 1142-PCB-W36 White LED Lamp

http://www.superbrightleds.com/specs/pcblamp_1142.htm

while it WILL FIT in your older style dome lights, is worthless for general lighting.

If they come out with a WARM WHITE version of their PCB-WHP9, it will probably be OK. We would need a 1142-PCB-WWHP9 for the older lamps or a G4-PCB-WWHP9 for the newer dome lights. These part numbers don't exist yet, but it's just a case of mix and match for them. I have just written them with these suggestions. Look for these products soon.

Never buy any LED replacement for your bulb unless it has built in current limiting. This is crucial.

This is a huge subject. Suffice it to say that LEDs for general lighting have finally arrived IF you are willing to pay up to 4000% more for the same amount of light. If your boat has regular access to shore power and a good battery, it doesn't make sense. If you depend on solar or wind to keep your battery up AND you want to run as many lights as you want without worry, then it might make sense. If you take care of them, don't overdrive them, and the contacts don't corrode, they will outlive you. For anchor lights or any other light that stays on a lot and is hard to reach, they make sense in any case.

Troy Scott · Post by **Troy Scott** » Jun 14th, '08, 05:26

Folks, If any of you read my post about clipping the leads off a Super Bright LEDs PCB-CWHP9 please ignore, delete and forget that. It was a mistake. Many of the Super Bright LEDs can be modified to work this way, but not this one, which has the driver in the base of the part I was suggesting to cut off and throw away! I apologize for the error. I hope it hasn't caused anyone any grief.

The Cape Dory Board

Sensibulb bargain

Re: Please explain

A CD chandlery item?

Sensibulbs at the Chandlery

heck, may as well sign me up....

Number Of Contacts On the Incandescent Bulbs??

light bulb socket

light bulb socket

Thanks

Super Bright?

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