Two Questions About Typhoon Hank On Jib

[Sea Hunt]

Got out sailing again today. Weather was great for the first hour. Headed towards Key Biscayne. Blue skys, gentle 7-8 kts SW winds.

Things quickly deteriorated. I periodically looked back towards Miami and suddenly noticed that the Miami skyline seemed to get black very quickly. I assumed (yes, I know ) this was smoke from the Everglades wildfires we have right now. Wrong

Very quickly the winds kicked up to 16-18 kts, with gusts well above that, and with a torrential rain. There was also a lot of thunder and some lightning. I decided that rather than heave to I should drop the jib and main and start the O/B. I was reasonably close to Key Biscayne and some shallow water and did not want the WSW wind to push me into Key Biscayne.

Made a slow ride back to the sailing club. The rain was so strong I could not discern buildings I have used as "range markers" to guide me back. Thankfully I had my hand held compass and a bit of luck.

I felt very comfortable in Tadpole. I know it sounds silly to say this but she seemed to kind of enjoy the rough water and strong winds. My only concern was getting hit by lightning.

I had checked the weather, winds, tides, etc. It was all supposed to be moderate this afternoon, with less than a 20% rain chance. As my grandmother used to say in broken English "the weatherman, he's a lie"

Now to my jib questions.

I have been using what I believe is the original hank on jib from Cape Dory - probably a 100-110 working jib. I am comfortable with this for now. Today, two of the pistons on these piston type brass hanks became frozen on the forestay and I could not get them off. Finally, I used pliers but in doing so managed to pull off two of the screw heads. The other hanks are also showing signs of deterioration. I want to replace all of them.

First, is this something I can/should do myself I think so but want to get advise from the board. I researched piston type brass hanks on the Internet and found the following:

http://www.bainbridgemarine.co.uk/conte ... ductId=192

Anybody know anything about these particular brass piston type hanks What is the correct size for a Ty Weekender working jib

Are there any other/better hanks I should buy

Second question is specific to Ty Weekenders. There are two fairleads on the port and starboard side. One set of fairleads is located just aft of the lower shroud "chainplates" port and starboard. These fairleads are permanently affixed to the deck. The other set of fairleads are located on the cabin roof port and starboard and are part of a metal track affixed to the roof. These fairleads can be positioned forward and aft on the track.

I have been setting up my jib sheets to run through the permanently affixed fairleads aft of the chainplates and then to a block aft of the winch and then back to the winch. I am "assuming" (yes, again, I know) this is the correct routing of the jib sheet. AM I RIGHT

Also, what is the purpose of the fairleads on the track on the cabin roof If they were more outboard on the deck I would assume it was to make adjustments to curvature of the jib (moving the fairleads back would flatten the low portion of the jib; moving the fairleads forward would give more curve to the leech, etc.)

When is it appropriate to use these fairleads on the metal track instead of the fairleads permanently affixed to the deck

I apologize for so many questions. It is a very steep learning curve.

[Dick Villamil]

Sounds like your Typhoon was in her element! The jib leads on teh cabin top are for the working jib - apparently the one you are currently using. You can move the car on teh track fore and aft to adjust to the wind strength. The optimum angle is generally what looks best however the genberal rule of thumb is forward in light and aft in heavy air. As for the tracks on the rail - this is for he genoa - when you get one. Also, with very heavt=y ar you might sheet the jib to the outboard deck tracks. The fixed lead aft of he chainplates - ???? I'm curious what others say about this.

[Sea Hunt]

I also found the following hanks for jibs listed on the Sailrite website. It is manufactured by Wichard.

http://www.sailrite.com/sail-snap-bronze

It seems like this one, without a "piston" would be less prone to failure.

Thoughts, comments, suggestions

I really appreciate any and all assistance.

Thanks,

[mgphl52]

Hi Robert!

Congrats on the adventure!

As for jib sheeting; both of the Typhoons I have had came with the (short) cabin top tracks that work great for the working jib and longer genoa tracks that were mounted in the toe rails.The genoa track cars were Shaeffer blocks that were spring loaded while the cabin top just had adjustable fair leads. My first Ty had pretty long genoa tracks, installed by the previous owner while th last one had shorter tracks, but there were also attachments well aft for the spinnaker sheets.

On to your second question, you might try some liberal use of WD-40 (or similar) to loosen up the jib hanks and then lubricate them a bit more frequently. The only time I have had problems with the piston-type hanks is when th sail had not been used for a long time, which I have tried to prevent as much as work will allow...

By the way, do you have jiffy or slab reefing on your main? My first Ty only had the (utterly useless) "rolling" boom for reducing sail. That was something I thought was cute when I bought the boat, but quickly despised after having to use once! The very first alteration I did was take the main to a sail maker to have three reef points added. I never had to use the 3rd set, but frequently enjoyed sailing with the 1st reef (on occasion, the 2nd) and working jib in conditions that kept most other sailors in port on the St Johns River! I also found that it was far easier to reduce sail and keep sailing, than motor back when it got gusty and the water was lumpy. Of course that's also assuming you have the room to take wide tacks, etc. The beauty of where you're sailing is that little squalls will pipe up, but they usually don't last too long either!

Again, congrats and ENJOY!!!

-michael

[Bruce Barber]

See Sea Hunt's link. I have the Wichard snap-on hooks on all my headsails. They make it almost enjoyable to go up there and change a sail. Well, maybe not, but they certainly speed up the process.

[sloopjohnl]

my weekender came with the tracks and fairleads on the cabintop and also a pair of cam cleats for securing the sheets of the jib. it also has the tracks and blocks on the toerail for the genoa. you may find that the fairleads on deck aft of the chainplates may provide a better sheeting angle/slot for the jib. i once took a fellow sailor out who use to race in the Balkans and he suggested a track and block on deck aft of the chainplates to improve the slot between the jib and main for better performance. not being that interested in racing or speed i have not as yet taken his advice.

[Mike Wainfeld]

Excellent sailing adventure! Now you must know how Ellen MacArthur felt singlehanding in the Southern Ocean-Well almost. As noted above the cabin top fairleads are for the working jib. Heres a photo of my current set up with cam cleats.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7 ... G7hqzcOGPg
But I sailed for years using the coaming horn cleats-there's a photo of the original set up on the "Regalo" website-see owners websites.

[ronkberg]

I have a 150% genoa on a roller furler so I do not use the cabin top fairleads. Would there be any advantage to run my sheets through those fairleads when I shorten the genoa? It seems to make sense and maybe help to point somewhat higher, and also help to flatten the sail. Does that make any sense or should I just leave them running trough the fairleads near the chainplates?

Fair winds and an "attaboy" to Robert for getting experience sailing his Typhoon.

Ron

[boom2it]

Yes moving the sheets is a good idea. Ronkberg where did you place your lead blocks for your roller furler. I do not have stanchions,(do you?), and will need to place a lead block or two when I install the new roller furler I just purchased. I am really trying to avoid any drilling except maybe along the toe rail. Any pictures of your setup?
Thanks,
Gene

[Sea Hunt]

The prior owner has told me that the two fairleads on the port and starboard deck just aft of the chainplatess are NOT for running jib/genoa sheets. It is his recollection they are only fastened with screws and no backing plates. He never used them except for tying off fenders.

They sure seem like they are affixed solidly, but I will not use these as jib sheet fairleads anymore until I can confirm their design use.

Any suggestions or additional thoughts

I wish I could post a photo of these fairleads and their exact positioning but I do not have any photos of them and even if I did, I have not mastered the art of posting on the board.

I will try running the jib sheets through the fairleads on the cabin roof. However, that seems to me (the "tadpole") that it would cause a lot of curvature in the bottom of the sail given how close these tracks (and the fairleads affixed to them) are to the centerline of the Ty.

Am I missing something simple My guess is yes.

Mike:

I have jiffy reefing on the main with one set of reef points.

Thanks in advance for any additional guidance.

[ronkberg]

Gene, my lead blocks are affixed to the stanchions. The first lead block should be placed such that the furling line comes straight out of the furling spool so it may need to be placed on your fore deck. Two more should be set into the toe rail and then through a clamcleat and line tied off to a lightweight nylon cleat. The two cleats are mounted on the wood surrounding the cockpit. I would not hesitate to drill holes in the toe rail and affix the lead block there, if no stanchions are available.

Robert, I have used the aft fairlead blocks for my genoa for the last few years and I think it is the right use, even though they are not backed. The way I see it, the sail forces are mostly perpendicular to the setting of the screws into the toe rails. I check the seating of the screws periodically and tighten as needed. Using them just "for tying off fenders" IMHO is okay at the dock but they are applicable to genoa sheets when sailing.

Regards, Ron

[Sea Hunt]

As mentioned in another thread, in the June 2008 issue of Sailing magazine there is a two page article discussing the Typhoon Weekender. Great article.

Of all the excellent information in the article, the one that stuck out was the paragraph that I think answered one of my questions in this post concerning the purpose of the two fairleads on the deck just aft of the chainplates. According to John Kretschmer at page 43, "The headsail tracks are mounted on the coachroof for the jib and there's a fixed-point lead on the side deck for larger headsails."

I am "assuming" a "fixed-point lead" is a immobile fairlead permanently attached.

So Ron, I think you are correct and I will use these deck fairleads for the genoa (after I acquire the ability to sail with a larger headsail ). Until then, I will reconfigure the jib sheets of the working jib to go through the fairleads on the coachroof as suggested by you and others on this board and by Mr. Kretschmer.

Thanks

I take this opportunity to respectfully ask everyone next week to remember our men and women in uniform - past and present, who have given their lives for the freedoms we enjoy. Regardless of how you personally feel about any particular aspect of our Nation's current foreign policies, those who voluntarily serve this country are truly our blood and treasure - as they have always been. They have earned our respect. This coming week, those who have given all especially deserve our honor, our respect, and our remembrance. Whether it is attending a memorial service, visiting the graves of our fallen heroes, or quietly reflecting upon the sacrifices made by so many, it will be time well spent by you and well earned by each of them.

35-40 years ago those who served and came home alive and those who served and died in the rice paddies of Vietnam were too often wrongly vilified for a policy and politics they had nothing to do with. They were serving their country -whether enlisted or drafted. Thankfully, today almost all Americans rightly separate personal political feelings from a desire to honor, and recognize the service and sacrifice of, our young men and women.

Whether you do so on Monday, 26 May, or on the more traditional Memorial Day, Friday, 30 May, I respectfully ask that you take a moment to remember what so many have given and sacrificed over the past 230+ years of our Nation's history.

[mgphl52]

Well said, Robert! Thank You!

[Mike Wainfeld]

Here's that other photo
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7 ... zcOGIPbz4E

[Sea Hunt]

Mike:

Thanks for the photo. Pictures are worth a thousand words

The coamings on Tadpole are thinner than on other Typhoons I looked at. I am not sure if they were just sanded down a lot more than others or if the coamings were replaced at some time with thinner teak boards.

Anyways, I am not comfortable putting any significant load on the port and starboard horn cleats that are affixed to these thin coamings without backing plates.

I was not able to get out today. As Zeida said in another post, weather in Miami is not good. When next out, I will run the jib sheets through the coach roof fairleads (as suggested by many) and secure them to the cleats on the coach roof (that I also use for jib and main halyards ).

I am reluctant to install cam cleats, although they work well on the Harbor 20s I "race". As suggested by others, I want to try to make as few changes as possible for the next 6-8 months and just get to know Tadpole better and, of course, allow her time to get to know me.

I did replace all of the hanks on what I believe is the original Cape Dory 100% working jib. I replaced the brass piston hanks with the same - brass piston hanks. I may switch them to the Wichard hanks with a spring rod if I find the piston hanks become more difficult over time.