I have been thinking about various methods to install turning blocks at the base of my CD27 mast. One method discussed here in the past is a plate that installs under the mast that has angled flanges with holes for attaching blocks in various locations. I like this method as it appears to require a minimum of drilling through the coachroof. However, I have yet to unstep the mast since I bought the boat, and would like some insight into the setup there.
There is a metal collar around the base of the mast. Is that attached to the coachroof? Does the mast sit in this collar to position it? If so, How does the plate get secured under the mast? Any insights would be appreciated!!
Bill Goldsmith
CD27
Second Chance
goldy@bestweb.net
Mast Step Anatomy
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Ed Rant
Re: Mast Step Anatomy
Bill:There is a metal collar around the base of the mast. Is that attached to the coachroof? Does the mast sit in this collar to position it? If so, How does the plate get secured under the mast? Any insights would be appreciated!!:
The metal collar is the mast step. It fits inside the base of the mast and secures the foot of the mast to the coach roof. It is a slip fit, the weight of the mast and the downward pressure of stays and shrouds holding the mast in place. The mast step itself is secured to the cabin top with four 3/16" diameter bolts that screw into a reinforcing plate sandwiched inside the coach roof. This is made of steel and is somewhat prone to rusting. On my boat a previous owner had drilled a hole through the mast step and this plate to run a VHF cable and caused considerable rusting due to poor sealing of the cable with caulk. Any water that enters your mast will fill the inside of the mast step if the limber (drain) hole on its aft side is not kept open and, as the mast covers this hole when stepped, this is something that is hard to determine. When I bought my boat the mast had not been unstepped in a long time and when I unstepped it quite a bit of corrosion had built up in the mast step. The crane operator practically lifted the boat out of the water before mast seperated from step. I am sending you a digital photo of my mast step to give you an idea of how it is designed and installs. Best of luck on your project.
Ed Rant
1981 CD-27 PATRICIA
cd27@txdirect.net
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Bill Goldsmith
Thanks: This board is awesome!!
Ed:
This question had been nagging me for a while and I finally got around to posting it. Within a couple of hours, I had a great response and a full color picture that was worth a thousand more words!! THANKS!!
I had thought that maybe there was a little collar or receptacle there but I was surprised to see the picture you sent me showing a massive hunk of metal (aluminum I presume)!! I doubt there are many other manufacturers' 27s out there built like this.
I will avoid any drilling through the reinforcement plate. The existing holes for wires through the deck are over next to the Dorade box and seem well sealed.
As far as the plate to attach the turning blocks, it seems the only way to do it would be to cut a hole matching the step, that would sit on the collar (the flange at the bottom). The mast would then sit on the plate, sandwiching it between the mast and the plate. NO HOLES!! And the setup would be removeable without a trace. Hmmmmmmmm........
Bill Goldsmith
CD27
Second Chance
goldy@bestweb.net
This question had been nagging me for a while and I finally got around to posting it. Within a couple of hours, I had a great response and a full color picture that was worth a thousand more words!! THANKS!!
I had thought that maybe there was a little collar or receptacle there but I was surprised to see the picture you sent me showing a massive hunk of metal (aluminum I presume)!! I doubt there are many other manufacturers' 27s out there built like this.
I will avoid any drilling through the reinforcement plate. The existing holes for wires through the deck are over next to the Dorade box and seem well sealed.
As far as the plate to attach the turning blocks, it seems the only way to do it would be to cut a hole matching the step, that would sit on the collar (the flange at the bottom). The mast would then sit on the plate, sandwiching it between the mast and the plate. NO HOLES!! And the setup would be removeable without a trace. Hmmmmmmmm........
Bill Goldsmith
CD27
Second Chance
Bill:There is a metal collar around the base of the mast. Is that attached to the coachroof? Does the mast sit in this collar to position it? If so, How does the plate get secured under the mast? Any insights would be appreciated!!:
The metal collar is the mast step. It fits inside the base of the mast and secures the foot of the mast to the coach roof. It is a slip fit, the weight of the mast and the downward pressure of stays and shrouds holding the mast in place. The mast step itself is secured to the cabin top with four 3/16" diameter bolts that screw into a reinforcing plate sandwiched inside the coach roof. This is made of steel and is somewhat prone to rusting. On my boat a previous owner had drilled a hole through the mast step and this plate to run a VHF cable and caused considerable rusting due to poor sealing of the cable with caulk. Any water that enters your mast will fill the inside of the mast step if the limber (drain) hole on its aft side is not kept open and, as the mast covers this hole when stepped, this is something that is hard to determine. When I bought my boat the mast had not been unstepped in a long time and when I unstepped it quite a bit of corrosion had built up in the mast step. The crane operator practically lifted the boat out of the water before mast seperated from step. I am sending you a digital photo of my mast step to give you an idea of how it is designed and installs. Best of luck on your project.
Ed Rant
1981 CD-27 PATRICIA
goldy@bestweb.net
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Richard G
Re: Mast Step Anatomy
M&E Marine 1 800-541-6501 has what you want, medium halyard plate $55. I installed one and am glad to have done so. After removing the mast you expose the mast step. Unbolt four bolts and mark plate for drilling. I had it done on a drill press as stainless plate is quite hard to drill through. Plate goes on deck, then I cut a plastic water bottle to act as a barrier between the aluminum mast step and the stainless halyard plate, then mast step on top. All then bolts back on to the deck. Mount Halyard plate so that the sole hole on plate is facing aft as this hole is perfect for hard point for boom vang. This will be clear once you have the plate in front of you. I had the yard unstep the mast with a crane. I don't think that you can do it anyother way but perhaps there is something that I don't know...probably much that I don't know. Good luck.
Aldajon@aol.com
Aldajon@aol.com
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Bill Goldsmith
Re: Mast Step Anatomy
Richard:
Thanks for the info. I have placed the order. My thought about an alternative installation: Cut a hole in the halyard plate so it fits snugly right over the mast step (without removing the step). Then step the mast right over the plate. Drawbacks: more difficult or impossible to isolate the steel from the aluminum than installing underneath. Probably not as strong. Benefits: No need to remove step. Easily removed when mast unstepped.
More questions: Is the existing mast step installed at the factory with hex bolts or machine screws? I am concerned that after unstepping the mast there might be screw slots there. After my difficulties with corrosion around the mast winches, I might think twice about this whole idea if there are screw heads there. If they are hex heads, there would seem to be a better shot at removal if any corrosion lurks there. Finally, do you see any justification for adding additional bolts through the deck or are you satisfied that the step installation bolts are adequate to do the job? Did you use longer bolts to account for the sandwiched layer?
Sorry for all the questions but I'd like to be sure of myself before messing around with the mast step.
HAPPY NEW YEAR
Bill Goldsmith
CD27 Second Chance
goldy@bestweb.net
Thanks for the info. I have placed the order. My thought about an alternative installation: Cut a hole in the halyard plate so it fits snugly right over the mast step (without removing the step). Then step the mast right over the plate. Drawbacks: more difficult or impossible to isolate the steel from the aluminum than installing underneath. Probably not as strong. Benefits: No need to remove step. Easily removed when mast unstepped.
More questions: Is the existing mast step installed at the factory with hex bolts or machine screws? I am concerned that after unstepping the mast there might be screw slots there. After my difficulties with corrosion around the mast winches, I might think twice about this whole idea if there are screw heads there. If they are hex heads, there would seem to be a better shot at removal if any corrosion lurks there. Finally, do you see any justification for adding additional bolts through the deck or are you satisfied that the step installation bolts are adequate to do the job? Did you use longer bolts to account for the sandwiched layer?
Sorry for all the questions but I'd like to be sure of myself before messing around with the mast step.
HAPPY NEW YEAR
Bill Goldsmith
CD27 Second Chance
M&E Marine 1 800-541-6501 has what you want, medium halyard plate $55. I installed one and am glad to have done so. After removing the mast you expose the mast step. Unbolt four bolts and mark plate for drilling. I had it done on a drill press as stainless plate is quite hard to drill through. Plate goes on deck, then I cut a plastic water bottle to act as a barrier between the aluminum mast step and the stainless halyard plate, then mast step on top. All then bolts back on to the deck. Mount Halyard plate so that the sole hole on plate is facing aft as this hole is perfect for hard point for boom vang. This will be clear once you have the plate in front of you. I had the yard unstep the mast with a crane. I don't think that you can do it anyother way but perhaps there is something that I don't know...probably much that I don't know. Good luck.
goldy@bestweb.net
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Richard G
Re: Mast Step Anatomy
Bill,
I would remove the step. It is mounted with four hex head machine bolts that came right out of the plate with no dificulty on my CD27.
By mounting the plate beneath the mast step you avoid having to drill any additional holes in the deck to mount the halyard plate. Other wise you could go with out the plate and mount blocks for each of the halyards before leading them to a deck organizer. This would require drilling holes for each block and using backing plates as well. No matter what, you will still need to use a turning block or deck organizer to lead the halyard back to the cockpit. I don't think that the deck organizers absolutely need backing plates as the force on them is latteral and the deck itself will take up the load.
Happy New Year!
Richard
Aldajon@aol.com
I would remove the step. It is mounted with four hex head machine bolts that came right out of the plate with no dificulty on my CD27.
By mounting the plate beneath the mast step you avoid having to drill any additional holes in the deck to mount the halyard plate. Other wise you could go with out the plate and mount blocks for each of the halyards before leading them to a deck organizer. This would require drilling holes for each block and using backing plates as well. No matter what, you will still need to use a turning block or deck organizer to lead the halyard back to the cockpit. I don't think that the deck organizers absolutely need backing plates as the force on them is latteral and the deck itself will take up the load.
Happy New Year!
Richard
Aldajon@aol.com