CD27 Engine

[Tanya Malacinski]

My CD27, 1977 original 8 HP engine needs to be replaced or rebuilt. Any recommendations of where to find a new compatible engine or proper (discount?)parts for the rebuilding?



Tmalaci@cs.com

[Scott Rirchey]

My CD27, 1977 original 8 HP engine needs to be replaced or rebuilt. Any recommendations of where to find a new compatible engine or proper (discount?)parts for the rebuilding?

I assume you have a Yanmar YSM-8 ... same engine I have. I have a service manual on the YSM-8 and could provide dimensions, etc if that's what you need. What makes you think it needs to be replaced? I think the scope of the work to repair your existing engine will dictate the best option. So the first question would be "what's wrong with your current engine?"

I suspect a new Yanmar is likely your best option considering support availability. The new engines are much smoother and quieter, but the install may require considerable rework of engine beds, prop shaft, etc. Have you seen the re-engine articles in Good Old Boat magazine? Yanmar has a web site with some tech data (size, weight, etc.) Thorreson Marine is a good engine site too.



RitcheyVA@aol.com

[Scott]

My CD27, 1977 original 8 HP engine needs to be replaced or rebuilt. Any recommendations of where to find a new compatible engine or proper (discount?)parts for the rebuilding?

Try this site for info:

http://www.dieselmarine.com/data/main.cfm

[Bob Miller]

My CD27, 1977 original 8 HP engine needs to be replaced or rebuilt. Any recommendations of where to find a new compatible engine or proper (discount?)parts for the rebuilding?

Try calling Jerry or Bob at Long Island Yacht Service. 631-549-4687. I don't know where you live but they send engines all over the country and are the biggest parts dealer for Yanmar. You have to be careful the way a new engine would fit as the YSM is a horizontal cylinder and the new GM-1 is a vertical. The CD27 is really undepowered and according to a repower formula, it needs 13 HP. The GM-2 is a better size, but check it out first. LIYS quoted me $ 5500 for the GM-1 but I live on the same harbor as them...and that includes installation. My current YSB8 is running really well. Maybe you're old one can be rebuilt? Don't wait until the warm weather as most of these guys get too busy. Anyway, have fun.

-Bob Miller



Millerfam5050@worldnet.att.net

[Bill Goldsmith]

Tanya:

My Cd27 had been repowered by a prior owner sometime before I bought her in 1998. They put in a Yanmar 2GM20F which is a two-cylinder 16hp (18max) freshwater cooled engine. I can attest that the engine does fit, although you have to remove the bulkhead drawer and reach through the opening to change the oil. The boat was previously moored in a marina off a canal that developed 6 knots, which probably prompted the upgrade. It's nice to have all the extra power. But that engine new plus installation will probably cost half the value of the boat!!! Call LIYS and talk to them per prior suggestion. They'll probably recommend a rebuild unless you're desperate for more oomph under power.

Bill Goldsmith
CD27#172
Second Chance

My CD27, 1977 original 8 HP engine needs to be replaced or rebuilt. Any recommendations of where to find a new compatible engine or proper (discount?)parts for the rebuilding?

goldy@bestweb.net

[David Brownlee]

We had our little YSM rebuilt a couple of years ago, replacing the cylinder and liner. It cost less than $1200, as I recall, at Yankee Point Marina in Virginia (a lovely place). We've covered a lot of miles in our boat, and we like the simplicity and economy of the engine very much. We cruise at 5 knots and can push up to six to get through a draw bridge. We can maintain something over four knots heading into a stiff breeze; but we usually sail when it's windy. Unless you really need to deal with six knot currents or must regularly power to windward against a 20 knot breeze and big seas,
I'd suggest that you stick with the YSM.

(BTW, we have had the alternator rebuilt, too, and have installed a vacuum relief valve and a raw water stainer.)

Ann and David Brownlee
WINDRUSH CD 27 #181 (1980)
Havre de Grace, MD



dbrownle@sas.upenn.edu

[Jeff Schmoyer]

</LI>

(BTW, we have had the alternator rebuilt, too, and have installed a vacuum relief valve and a raw water stainer.)

David,

How did you know you needed the cylinder replacement? What about vibration and noise of the engine?

What is a pressure relief valve? Benefits?

Jeff



jeff.schmoyer@iff.com

[David Brownlee]

</LI>

A "vacuum breaker" or "vacuum relief valve" or "vented loop" is frequently recommended. It is placed in the cooling water line leading from the engine to the exhaust system, and should be located as high as possible above the waterline. We mounted ours on the back of the forward wall of the cockpit footwell, right over the engine. While not allowing water in the cooling system to leak out, it keeps a vacuum from forming in the cooling line, which could suck seawater into the engine backwards through the muffler.

We realized that we had cracked a piston ring and needed to replace the liner only when a mechanic looked at the engine. We knew *something* was wrong after suffering a catastropic loss of engine compression (and power), accompanied by a cloud of oily blue smoke.

Ann and David Brownlee
"Windrush" CD27 #181
Havre de Grace, MD



dbrownle@sas.upenn.edu