Quater berth water tank
Moderator: Jim Walsh
Quater berth water tank
Hey guys and gals, does anybody know where I might get a OEM poly water tank for my CD 36? It is an 84 if that matters. Thanks, Woody
- barfwinkle
- Posts: 2169
- Joined: Feb 6th, '05, 10:34
- Location: S/V Rhapsody CD25D
Woody, I am not certain, but the most likely came from Kracor. Here is a link:
http://www.kracor.com/pages/marinecatalog.html
Happy Easter to all
http://www.kracor.com/pages/marinecatalog.html
Happy Easter to all
Bill Member #250.
- Cathy Monaghan
- Posts: 3502
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 08:17
- Location: 1986 CD32 Realization #3, Rahway, NJ, Raritan Bay -- CDSOA Member since 2000. Greenline 39 Electra
- Contact:
- Evergreen
- Posts: 351
- Joined: Sep 2nd, '06, 12:12
- Location: 1986 Cape Dory 36 - Hull # 139 - "Evergreen" - kept at Great Island Boat Yard - Maine
- Contact:
Tank Repair
Last year the starboard settee water tank on our CD36 developed some cracks in the very bottom (I suspect because it was not winterized properly).
I contacted Robinhood Marine concerning the availability of a replacement tank. They were kind enough to contact the manufacturer (?) who stated that they no longer had any tanks and the mold had been lost.
So according to my marina I could purchase a new custom made stainless tank or have my old tank repaired. Due to the cost involved I chose to go with the repair. The marina purchased special plastic "welding" equipment and made the repair followed by some testing of the tank while it was still out of the boat. Now, a year later, I can say that it looks like repairing the tank turned out for the best.
Bottom line: Plastic tank repair is a viable alternative.
I contacted Robinhood Marine concerning the availability of a replacement tank. They were kind enough to contact the manufacturer (?) who stated that they no longer had any tanks and the mold had been lost.
So according to my marina I could purchase a new custom made stainless tank or have my old tank repaired. Due to the cost involved I chose to go with the repair. The marina purchased special plastic "welding" equipment and made the repair followed by some testing of the tank while it was still out of the boat. Now, a year later, I can say that it looks like repairing the tank turned out for the best.
Bottom line: Plastic tank repair is a viable alternative.
Philip & Sharon
https://share.delorme.com/ADVNTURUNLIMITD (Where is Evergreen?)
http://northernexposurein2013.blogspot.com/ (Link to older blogs)
https://share.delorme.com/ADVNTURUNLIMITD (Where is Evergreen?)
http://northernexposurein2013.blogspot.com/ (Link to older blogs)
-
- Posts: 53
- Joined: Mar 31st, '05, 23:12
- Location: CD 33 Willow, Lake Saint Clair, Michigan
h20 tank
Woody, The summer before last I pulled the starboard water tank out of my 33" CD it is a Kracor 30 gallon in great shape sitting in my loft, if you are interested I could take a few photos and send them on to you. I took it out to reposition my battery bank down low and out of the lazarette, worked well. Paul Marti
For Paul
Paul, I might be very interested in you tank. I am going to ask John Dancsic if he'll check with his brother. One owns a 36 the other a 33. I suspect these tanks are probably the same size. If so, and you'd like to sell it, perhaps we can work something out......
Woody
Woody
Woody, I am curious, what exactly happened to your quarterberth tank? Did it just crack/split?
Have you removed it already? I have often wondered about dead space around the quarterberth tank. Given the hull shape, I cannot imagine the tank tapers all the way to the aft end of the quarterberth. Is there some deadspace at the back of the quarterberth that is usable storage space?
The previous owner of my CD36 replaced the setee tank at one point. As the bow tank and quarterberth tank are blue plastic, the setee tank is white and obviously different (and far thicker plastic of different construction). I have no idea who made the new tank though, no labels or indications of any kind are on it.
For a cheaper short term solution (if repair is not an option), have you considered a bladder tank? Not an option I would accept, but perhaps worth thinking about when consider the cost of a new tank if it has to be custom made.
Have you removed it already? I have often wondered about dead space around the quarterberth tank. Given the hull shape, I cannot imagine the tank tapers all the way to the aft end of the quarterberth. Is there some deadspace at the back of the quarterberth that is usable storage space?
The previous owner of my CD36 replaced the setee tank at one point. As the bow tank and quarterberth tank are blue plastic, the setee tank is white and obviously different (and far thicker plastic of different construction). I have no idea who made the new tank though, no labels or indications of any kind are on it.
For a cheaper short term solution (if repair is not an option), have you considered a bladder tank? Not an option I would accept, but perhaps worth thinking about when consider the cost of a new tank if it has to be custom made.
Russell
s/v (yet to be named) Tayana 42CC
s/v Lady Pauline Cape Dory 36 #117 (for sale)
s/v (yet to be named) Tayana 42CC
s/v Lady Pauline Cape Dory 36 #117 (for sale)
- Evergreen
- Posts: 351
- Joined: Sep 2nd, '06, 12:12
- Location: 1986 Cape Dory 36 - Hull # 139 - "Evergreen" - kept at Great Island Boat Yard - Maine
- Contact:
Tank colors
Russell:
Our tank colors are blue & white as you mentioned and I believe they are all the original tanks.
Our tank colors are blue & white as you mentioned and I believe they are all the original tanks.
Philip & Sharon
https://share.delorme.com/ADVNTURUNLIMITD (Where is Evergreen?)
http://northernexposurein2013.blogspot.com/ (Link to older blogs)
https://share.delorme.com/ADVNTURUNLIMITD (Where is Evergreen?)
http://northernexposurein2013.blogspot.com/ (Link to older blogs)
Re: Tank colors
Wow, interesting, seems odd the tanks would be so different, but if you boat is the same then I have to assume they are in fact factory origonal.Evergreen wrote:Russell:
Our tank colors are blue & white as you mentioned and I believe they are all the original tanks.
Russell
s/v (yet to be named) Tayana 42CC
s/v Lady Pauline Cape Dory 36 #117 (for sale)
s/v (yet to be named) Tayana 42CC
s/v Lady Pauline Cape Dory 36 #117 (for sale)
- bottomscraper
- Posts: 1400
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 11:08
- Location: Previous Owner of CD36 Mahalo #163 1990
- Contact:
Re: Tank colors
Ditto for Mahalo. The original V-berth and quarterberth were blue, the settee white. The current V-berth tank is now also white, we replaced it with a Ronco tank a few years ago. The original V-berth was a blue Kracor.Evergreen wrote:Russell:
Our tank colors are blue & white as you mentioned and I believe they are all the original tanks.
I did remove the plywood over the quarterberth tank. There did not appear to be much extra room except at the forward end. Our diaphragm bilge pump lives there now. I enlarged the opening for better access. I can also stash some spare parts in there. I did not remove the tank itself. I believe the tank is rather thin at the aft end.
Leo MacDonald is the king of finding extra storage space. If you ever get a chance and have about an hour let him show you all the bonus storage space he found on his 33 Evening Light!
Rich Abato
Nordic Tug 34 Tanuki
Previous Owner Of CD36 Mahalo #163
Southern Maine
http://www.sailmahalo.com
Nordic Tug 34 Tanuki
Previous Owner Of CD36 Mahalo #163
Southern Maine
http://www.sailmahalo.com
Re: Tank colors
Ah, good to know. Yes the space in front of the tank is quite handy, I store canned food/juices there and you can fit a pretty amazing amount in there (but the hoses make access a bit awkward sometimes).bottomscraper wrote: I did remove the plywood over the quarterberth tank. There did not appear to be much extra room except at the forward end. Our diaphragm bilge pump lives there now. I enlarged the opening for better access. I can also stash some spare parts in there. I did not remove the tank itself. I believe the tank is rather thin at the aft end.
I am suprised you can fit the diaphrame bilge pump in there, must be tight? Any particular reason you switched to this over the more typical submersible pump? Or is this a backup high flow pump?
Russell
s/v (yet to be named) Tayana 42CC
s/v Lady Pauline Cape Dory 36 #117 (for sale)
s/v (yet to be named) Tayana 42CC
s/v Lady Pauline Cape Dory 36 #117 (for sale)
- bottomscraper
- Posts: 1400
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 11:08
- Location: Previous Owner of CD36 Mahalo #163 1990
- Contact:
Re: Tank colors
It is a small electric diaphragm that acts as our primary bilge pump. There is also a Rule 4000 that lives in the bilge.. The Rule is mounted on a frame so it sits about 4" above the bottom of the bilge. It basically stays dry all the time. The intake strainer for the remote diaphragm sits at the bottom. Each pump has it's own "float" switch. The diaphragm pump uses a Water Witch switch. The small pump also has a counter attached. The Rule uses an Aqualarmswitch rated at 30 Amps, most other "float" switches are rated for 20 Amps or less. Needless to say we also have the manual bilge pump.Russell wrote:I am suprised you can fit the diaphrame bilge pump in there, must be tight? Any particular reason you switched to this over the more typical submersible pump? Or is this a backup high flow pump?bottomscraper wrote: I did remove the plywood over the quarterberth tank. There did not appear to be much extra room except at the forward end. Our diaphragm bilge pump lives there now. I enlarged the opening for better access. I can also stash some spare parts in there. I did not remove the tank itself. I believe the tank is rather thin at the aft end.
The engineer in me never liked the idea of a pump sitting in water all the time. Since the strainer is now attached to a hose it is easy to pull it up for cleaning and inspection. I have not measured it but I suspect the standby current of the Aqualarm switch is a bit high. The WaterWitch is low at only 0.004 amps. Typical mechanical float switches have zero standby current, but I have had very bad luck with mechanical float switches. If I were to do it different today I would probably look for an elapsed run time counter rather than a cycle counter. It would be more important to know that the pump ran for 3 hours than it is to know it came on once!
Sorry for the thread hijack!
Rich Abato
Nordic Tug 34 Tanuki
Previous Owner Of CD36 Mahalo #163
Southern Maine
http://www.sailmahalo.com
Nordic Tug 34 Tanuki
Previous Owner Of CD36 Mahalo #163
Southern Maine
http://www.sailmahalo.com