lumber for cockpit combing

[Ron M.]

OJ,
I've done a bit of veneering over the years, from antique restoration to new cabinet work. I don't like contact cement for anything other than plastic laminates. For antiques use hyde glue, for interior work yellow cabinet maker's glue is fine, for exterior work something waterproof like a polyurethane glue is good and gives you some time to set clamps. Even on the interior of a boat I would use waterproof glue.
Dampen,(not soak) the glue side both surfaces and apply glue to just coat both. Not too much. With a rubber roller work from the center to edge removing any trapped air. Clamp with even distribution, using cawls and or weights every 6". You want a good , even squeeze out..... Bingo
________
Buy Extreme Vaporizer

[Jack Carr]

My vote is stick with the teak. In the long run it will be the least expensive to maintain. If I were to buy another CD and it had white oak combings I would keep looking.

White oak is a good, inexpensive marine wood, as it is strong and doesn't absorb water (that's why they make wine casks out of it), but it should be used for structural application, not highly visible exterior yacht components.

Mahogany has traditionally been used for bright work on yachts but it comes with a lot of coats of varnish and elbow grease. It is not as durable or strong as teak which has both the internal oil and the silica which gives it toughness (use carbide to cut).

The reason we like CD's is their look and handling. Go with teak.

[Oswego John]

Kerry Deare and Ron M,

I plan to rebuild and restore the cuddy bulkhead on an older Ty W/E. The earlier ones used wood for them, rather than a glass and gelcoat finish.

I am wondering if the thickness of the veneer has any importance? It will be exposed to the weather. I realize that there's not much meat on the bone. That's the reason that I'm replacing it. A PO started to sand the panel, with disastrous results.. I suppose that you could call it an honest mistake made by those who don't realize what they are working with.

Thanks Ron, for the timely tips. I have to force myself to take pictures of the entire process. It might be of interest to someone who is contemplating this same project.

I could use some names of reputable lumber companies that people have had good teak veneer experiences with.

Spring is almost here,
O J

[Ron M.]

OJ,
For that bulkhead you described, you can make your own veneer by re-sawing 4/4" stock 3" or 4" wide. it's a good way to use up scrap. should be able to get 2 or 3 ' veneers '- 1/4" thick from each piece. It would be better to have more than a 1/16" of meat with the inevitable abuse it's bound to receive in that area. Run a bead or chamfer on each face edge and glue them to some marine or exterior ply. I have done this type of thing many times with very nice results.....just an idea. I know, we were talking combing boards.
________
Marijuana card

[tartansailor]

OJ,
I bought the veneer on ebay.
The plan is to vacuum bag laminate using epoxy. I have 2 contacts,
that I found Googleing the web. That is as far as I got. Work has me buried. Will let you know as soon as something happens.
Dick

[chase]

Here are my current local options, I offer so you can compare regional prices (I'm in Mtns of Western NC)

1) Quarter sawn Wht Oak in 5/4: $4/bft, 8/4 is $5 bft

2) Teak: $25 bft

3) Iroko $9 bft

4) Black locust off my bandsaw mill, $priceless

While I think the White Oak is a perfectly good material, the Iroko, dubbed "African Teak" is not that much more and has a good reputation as an alternative. Anyone else got an opinion based on observation or use? I hear a lot of "just go with the real stuff", but have you actually worked with and seen the Iroko?

I think the Black locust is structurally the best species for what I'm doing, just worried about the slight yellow tinge to the wood. I used some in a feed bin I recently built and varnished it just to see what it looks like.

I'm building a bowsprit, btw.

Comments about Iroko?

Chase

[Sea Hunt]

Hello Chase:

I am sure you already know about this website and have already read its discussion of "Iroko", but on the off chance you have not yet gotten to the site, it seems to have a pretty good discussion of "Iroko" along with several hundred other woods from around the world:

http://www.exotichardwoods-africa.com/iroko.htm

I know nothing about "Iroko". I grew up in Western Mass. We had Elm trees and white birch trees. White birch was excellent for fire places in winter. That is the sum total of my knowledge about wood.

[chase]

Thanks Seahunt, hadn't seen this site.

c

[Jack Carr]

Iroko has been used as a substitute for teak but premium boat builders have stayed away from it for good reason. It is not as stable as teak. It's tangential movement qualities are closer to white oak which is not ideal in a wet environment.

The real problem with iroko is its unreliability. A good supplier who knows how to kiln dry it is essential otherwise iroko has a tendency to surface or end check or even worse to case harden which will create voids that only show up when the lumber is cut.

[Steve Laume]

I believe Ipe from South America is an even closer match as a Teak alternative. When I see some of the plantation grown Teak, I am not sure Ipe is a lesser wood. The Teak we are seeing today is not the same as what was originally used in our boats 20 plus years ago. The more socially acceptable plantation Teak is grown fast and sawn from small trees. There are very few quarter sawn boards in the lumber piles. The growth rings are widely spaced and there are often dark mineral stains throughout the boards. The dark staining is beautiful but not the uniform grain and color of the older trees.

I think it is interesting to see some of the top builders using American Cherry for interior woodwork. Teak is definitely the wood of choice for outside in a marine environment or maybe Ipe or some other dense tropical wood. Cherry is absolutely beautiful for interior applications. Teak is a pain to finish.

I have seen some absolutely beautiful traditional boats with White Oak brightwork. To say it is only a structural wood is just not fair. Dark saining can be a problem.

I am trying to incorporate some other woods into my boat. Cape Dory used Teak and Ash. I have a cockpit table that is Teak, Walnut and Ash. It is much more beautiful than the monotone of Teak typically seen there. I plan to bring some more Walnut accents into the interior. I used some Iroko for my cam cleat and chimney blocks.

I did all the gunnels on my CD-14 with some beautiful tight, straight grained, Iroko. I don't believe I could have found such perfect 16 foot long lumber in Teak even if I could have afforded it.

I remember asking a local logger, sawyer about using some Quaking Aspen logs I had for framing lumber to do a small addition on my house. I was a bit concerned about their suitability. His comment: "wood is wood". More profound New England wisdom was never spoken.

One thing to remember is that the high quality craftsmanship, to do a good job of marine carpentry is worth far more than any material you may use. If you are planning to do a good job, don't skimp on the material, Steve.

[John Vigor]

Comments about Iroko?

Chase

Chase, I once had a 31-footer with 3-inch laminated iroko gunwales and a wide iroko rubbing strake and caprail. I painted the gunwales and varnished the rubbing strake and caprail.

The varnished iroko looked gorgeous, more reddish than teak and with a more interesting grain. It stood up to tropical sunshine and warm salt water without apparent deterioration.

I wouldn't hesitate to recommend it if you can find choice lengths.

Cheers,

John Vigor