Interior teak finish CD

[Bob Pence]

I am not happy with the dull interior in my boat. Previous owner only used Murphy's or teak oil and it is dull and makes the cabin seem even darker than it is. What do you use. I am not big on varnish. How about cetol or what? Cleaned and light sanded cabin sole and used Gymseal and it is beautiful but it takes 4 coats on sole. Might be able to get by with less on vertical surface.



sixpence@dmv.com

[Bill Goldsmith]

Bob:

On the interior where the varnish is intact I used Liquid Gold furniture polish from the local supermarket and it worked great. Got the suggestion from Catherine (I seem to recall it was her) in an old post right here. I would avoid Murphy's unless there is a real reason to use soap (old grime, etc.) That might solve some of the dull verical surface problem immediately. As far as re-varnishing the interior (specifically the sole), I'll be watching responses because I'd like suggestions on that as well.


Bill Goldsmith
CD27
Second Chance

I am not happy with the dull interior in my boat. Previous owner only used Murphy's or teak oil and it is dull and makes the cabin seem even darker than it is. What do you use. I am not big on varnish. How about cetol or what? Cleaned and light sanded cabin sole and used Gymseal and it is beautiful but it takes 4 coats on sole. Might be able to get by with less on vertical surface.

goldy@bestweb.net

[Bob Pence]

Bob:

On the interior where the varnish is intact I used Liquid Gold furniture polish from the local supermarket and it worked great. Got the suggestion from Catherine (I seem to recall it was her) in an old post right here. I would avoid Murphy's unless there is a real reason to use soap (old grime, etc.) That might solve some of the dull verical surface problem immediately. As far as re-varnishing the interior (specifically the sole), I'll be watching responses because I'd like suggestions on that as well.


Bill Goldsmith
CD27
Second Chance

I am not happy with the dull interior in my boat. Previous owner only used Murphy's or teak oil and it is dull and makes the cabin seem even darker than it is. What do you use. I am not big on varnish. How about cetol or what? Cleaned and light sanded cabin sole and used Gymseal and it is beautiful but it takes 4 coats on sole. Might be able to get by with less on vertical surface.

Bill Goldsmith, a friend of mine, Bob Noyce, probably the best surveyor in the Annapolis area is also a consultant to several Taiwan and European boat builders. They are using GYMSEAL on cabin soles, expands and contracts with temperature and moisture, and when scratched or scuffed, lightly run over with fine bronze wool, (never use steel wool on a boat, the particles rust)and apply a new coat. Mine has four coats and is beautiful. This is the stuff they use on gym floors. I think it is a McCormick product. Annapolis paints carry it. Thanks Bob



sixpence@dmv.com

[Tom]

Bob:

On the interior where the varnish is intact I used Liquid Gold furniture polish from the local supermarket and it worked great. Got the suggestion from Catherine (I seem to recall it was her) in an old post right here. I would avoid Murphy's unless there is a real reason to use soap (old grime, etc.) That might solve some of the dull verical surface problem immediately. As far as re-varnishing the interior (specifically the sole), I'll be watching responses because I'd like suggestions on that as well.


Bill Goldsmith
CD27
Second Chance

I am not happy with the dull interior in my boat. Previous owner only used Murphy's or teak oil and it is dull and makes the cabin seem even darker than it is. What do you use. I am not big on varnish. How about cetol or what? Cleaned and light sanded cabin sole and used Gymseal and it is beautiful but it takes 4 coats on sole. Might be able to get by with less on vertical surface.

Bill Goldsmith, a friend of mine, Bob Noyce, probably the best surveyor in the Annapolis area is also a consultant to several Taiwan and European boat builders. They are using GYMSEAL on cabin soles, expands and contracts with temperature and moisture, and when scratched or scuffed, lightly run over with fine bronze wool, (never use steel wool on a boat, the particles rust)and apply a new coat. Mine has four coats and is beautiful. This is the stuff they use on gym floors. I think it is a McCormick product. Annapolis paints carry it. Thanks Bob

Looks pretty, but isn't it slippery as ice when your shoes are wet? Varnish certainly is.



TomCambria@mindspring.com

[Bob Pence]

Bob:

On the interior where the varnish is intact I used Liquid Gold furniture polish from the local supermarket and it worked great. Got the suggestion from Catherine (I seem to recall it was her) in an old post right here. I would avoid Murphy's unless there is a real reason to use soap (old grime, etc.) That might solve some of the dull verical surface problem immediately. As far as re-varnishing the interior (specifically the sole), I'll be watching responses because I'd like suggestions on that as well.


Bill Goldsmith
CD27
Second Chance

Bill Goldsmith, a friend of mine, Bob Noyce, probably the best surveyor in the Annapolis area is also a consultant to several Taiwan and European boat builders. They are using GYMSEAL on cabin soles, expands and contracts with temperature and moisture, and when scratched or scuffed, lightly run over with fine bronze wool, (never use steel wool on a boat, the particles rust)and apply a new coat. Mine has four coats and is beautiful. This is the stuff they use on gym floors. I think it is a McCormick product. Annapolis paints carry it. Thanks Bob

Looks pretty, but isn't it slippery as ice when your shoes are wet? Varnish certainly is.

Tom, I had varnish on the sole of my CD30 Ketch from 1983 to 1989 and I sailed in a lot of wild and wet weather in New England with no problems slipping, needless to say I had on boat shoes or boots. From 1989 to 1996 I sailed a Pearson 365 also with varnish on the sole, over 10,000 miles in all kinds of storms and weather between N.C. and Georgetown, Bahamas with no slipping problems. The Gymseal seems to have better traction than varnish. You cannot use Gymseal outside where it is exposed to the sun.



sixpence@dmv.com

[D. Stump, Hanalei]

The teak and holly sole is actually a very thin veneer. Too much sanding and you will expose the backing. I plan on stripping Hanaleis' sole this spring and will probably use the GymSeal for a finish as suggested by others or maybe an interior poly varnish made for home interior flooring that is water based. I will chemically strip the old varnish, use the two part teak cleaner (Snappy Teak Cleaner) and apply a coat of teak oil, and then the GymSeal. After the teak cleaner I will LIGHTLY sand it with a palm sander with 150 grit paper on it. If you have any suggestions on what I propose, please let me know....

Dave Stump
Captain Commanding
s/v Hanalei

[Larry DeMers]

Hi Folks,

We did this last year. We prepared the interior wood by removing everything that could be removed from the teak, then washed the surface with soap and water and a tad of clorox to help kill off any fungii that might be trying to find a lease there...then let it dry thoroughly. Get out the sanding block and palm sander, equip both with 180 grit and do a *lite* sanding of all surfaces and trim. Next tack rag the area you will be working on over the next 15 minutes only.

For a varnish, we decided to give the water soluable varnishes a try. We chose a satin finish (semi-gloss would be close to the same thing). We applied two coats, 8 hours apart, using a series of foam brushes, changing them out as they fell apart, rather than trying to make one do the trick for the entire boat. The varnish has no smell to speak of, dries to tack-free in 20 minutes, and allows you to fly around the boat quickly, since you do not have to wait long for the drying time.

The results were truly satisfying. It brightened up the interior quite nicely, and got us away from doing the teak oil trick every 6 mn.

Cheers!

Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30 ~~~~Sailing Lake Superior~~~~

I am not happy with the dull interior in my boat. Previous owner only used Murphy's or teak oil and it is dull and makes the cabin seem even darker than it is. What do you use. I am not big on varnish. How about cetol or what? Cleaned and light sanded cabin sole and used Gymseal and it is beautiful but it takes 4 coats on sole. Might be able to get by with less on vertical surface.

demers@sgi.com

[Richard Formica]

I am not happy with the dull interior in my boat. Previous owner only used Murphy's or teak oil and it is dull and makes the cabin seem even darker than it is. What do you use. I am not big on varnish. How about cetol or what? Cleaned and light sanded cabin sole and used Gymseal and it is beautiful but it takes 4 coats on sole. Might be able to get by with less on vertical surface.

Hi Bob,

I would not use cetol on the interior as it can chip. This year I did my interior with Interlux Schooner varnish on the cabin sole, top of chart table, dinning table and on the stove cover. On the verticle surfaces I used Interlux Rubbed Effect varnish. The result was very nice. This was my first try at varnish and I was pleased that a beginner could get a reasonable finish. I'll pass on two pieces of advice that were given to me; first once the interior is varnished it will last for many years so it is well worth the time investment and second, with the exception of the sole, you can do it insections over the course of the season. This allows you to keep sailing.

Richard Formica
s/v Inerarity CD 36