Moisture in Chainlocker CD 36

[Richard Schattman]

I just purchased a CD 36. While the survey did not indicate a concern, the mositure in the chainlocker apprears to have created a great deal of pealing and rust in the sub-deck plate just below the sprit. Is this a common issue and what is the best method for treatment of the situation? Thanks



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[John R.]

Richard,

It is sort of common on CD's especially those that are located in salt environments. Obviously, the degree to which they rust truly depends on how much exposure the steel has had to salt and moisture and how well the factory originally primed the bare steel. These steel components in CD's (bow, stern, hull chainplates, steering framework) all have a propensity for the rusting problem if they are not properly maintained. In your situation you mention peeling and not just rust. If it is just the primer that is peeling and not also moderate to heavily flaking rusted steel then you do not have a serious problem. If however the steel is badly rusted and layering or heavily flaking then the issue becomes more serious as this will eventually compromise it's structural integrity.

Make certain you do not have a deck leak in the vicinty of the sprit that may be weeping through the deck bolt holes and contacting the steel backing assembly. Once you know you don't have a leak then you simply need to get inside that locker and prep the steel, removing all loose and flaking rust. Then you can chemically prep the surface by a couple of different methods. You can either use a rust conversion primer like Ospho or similar product, then prime and top coat paint; or the other option (permanent) is to use a urethane conversion sealer process like Por 15 or Corroseal. If you judge your situation to be fairly serious then you should get a qualified surveyor to evaluate the problem and offer you corrective options. If the problem is light surface rusting with peeling paint and/or also has some minor flaking of the rusted steel then the options I previously listed will solve your problem. Just make sure you follow the product directions carefully. Good luck.

I just purchased a CD 36. While the survey did not indicate a concern, the mositure in the chainlocker apprears to have created a great deal of pealing and rust in the sub-deck plate just below the sprit. Is this a common issue and what is the best method for treatment of the situation? Thanks

[Bernie]

...Just curious what other have found when inspecting this backing plate in the chain locker...I can see that the rust has caused a small piece of fiberglass cloth to delaminate, but that can be fixed...I think there is sufficient metal left to clean it up and prime with something suitable (underside at least)...I'm a bit more concerned about the bar (or rebar) that anchors this assembly to the hull...It is showing a fair bit of rust and I can't imagine how to access that piece for repainting or replacement...Anyway, just curious what observations or experience others may have had...I currently have the bowsprit off so there is no better time to deal with it...

[Ron M.]

Hard to tell from photos how extensive the degradation is. Mine was so bad I replaced it with a new stainless one. It is an uncomfortable and dirty adventure getting the old one out. If you can save it good advice has already been offered. Search the archives as this has been discussed extensively. Good luck
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[Russell]

Personally, if I already went through the trouble of removing the bowsprit, I would replace the plate with a SS one reguardless of apparent condition. Good preventative maintence of a known issue with these boats, done when its easiest to do.

[Bernie]

I took a closer look during lunch...Access is going to be the biggest challenge...I had thought that the backing plates for the lateral rigging were tough to reach, but this is truly painful...squeezing into the narrow doors of the anchor locker!..I'm afraid it almost impossible without creating some additional working space, perhaps cutting away part of the dividing wall in the locker...We'll see...

Thanks for the replies,

/Bernie

[David VanDenburgh]

Bernie,
You got the bowsprit off? What was that like?

[John R.]

If you are going to replace any of the rigging backing assemblies use bronze plate and /or rod where needed. Braze the components with high silver content rod. Be done with the issue once and for all, a permanent repair.

If not interested in replacement, clean up the otherwise sound pieces and then apply Corroseal, Por 15 or similar encapsulation coating. You must completely disassemble to gain access to the entire component that is not encased under glass. If corrosion extends into glassed areas then you must perform surgery. If you fail to address all corroded areas you gain nothing and things remain compromised.