lumber for cockpit combing

[Sethrkallman]

We are dong repairs on our recently aquired Cape Dory 27. The cockpit Combing boards are shot. They are teak. Well two the at 10 bf/ it is $200/ . The other choices are mahogany, South amazon, african or santos. then on to white oak. So the question is. Will White oak be satisfactory? We have it. If we use that. there will be more $ available for new running rigging etc. Any guidance will be appreciated. thanx Seth Kallman

MOVED from the 'Sandbox'.

[Carl Thunberg]

Hi Seth,

You posted this in the "Sandbox". The Sandbox is a forum for practicing things like your first photo post, a new avatar, or whatever. People don't typically respond to "Sandbox" posts. You may want to pose this question on the "Cape Dory Discussions" forum, where people are most likely to respond. But let me give it a go.

First, make absolutely certain the old teak coamings really can't be salvaged. I first thought my old coamings were beyond repair, but once I started sanding, I realized the teak was in far better shape than I thought.

Assuming they really are shot, I would not personally use white oak for coamings. The grain pattern is just too prominent for my sense of aesthetics, but like all matters of taste, if you like it, go for it. Oak is very porous and will absorb a LOT of varnish or whatever wood treatment you use.

The cost difference between white oak and mahogany isn't that much, and there is absolutly no comparison between them when it comes to a beautifully varnished finished product. Also, think about future re-sale value. Potential buyers will be looking for the Cape Dory look which includes teak coamings. I don't think mahogany coamings would turn anyone away, but white oak may. Something to consider. Good luck!

[Jim_B]

On previous boat projects I've used Iroko in place of teak. At the time it was less than half the price of teak. You might check it out.

http://www.thefreelibrary.com/Majestic+ ... a076815280

[aja]

Stay with Teak, it is money well spent. It has already proven itself durable and good looking for 30+ years.

[marka]

I rebuilt our cockpit coamings with white oak last summer. In my opinion, teak isn't worth the price. It's principal benefit (rot resistance from high oil content) makes it difficult to glue and it chews up your tools.

White oak is a preferred wood for large frame members of any wooden boat. It finishes beautifully, glues well and is kind to your saw & plane blades.

Again, I'm of the opinion that if it's good enough for structural members on wooden boats, it's good enough for decorative elements on glass boats.

I have some pics of the new coamings but i'm too lazy to figure out how to post on the board. Send me a private message and I'm happy to email the pics.

My 2 cents

[Ron M.]

This topic has been discussed many times relating to bowsprits. White oak is a fine choice for any exterior application , door thresholds were made from it for generations. I made a bowsprit of white oak with a teak oil based stain and it looks great. If you can find it quarter sawn that would be even better. It is tough stuff - not easily worked with hand tools.
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BMW M COUPE HISTORY

[tartansailor]

The coamings on my CD-25 are ground thin from repeat refinishing.
Here is one option under review:
I bought several pieces of 1/16" X 24" X 10' teak veneer with a cloth backing on the net. I"m thinking of laminating that to both sides of marine plywood, and then shaping a 1/2 round from the old coaming, for the top.
I have not bought the plywood yet.
Fabrication in my shop is not an issue.
Anyone care to comment?

Dick

[wingreen]

... it just wouldn't be the same...

My only wish is that they made a CD with a gaff and topsail. Teak and topsails - now that's what I'm talkin' 'bout, Baby!

[Ed Haley]

I bought a CD14 last fall and discovered the rails were of two types of wood - mahogany inboard and white oak outboard. I took all the wood off the boat and sanded down the surfaces, cleaned up the adhesives from an old restoration and put the wood. I had thought of replacing the whole rail with mahogany but decided that the wood was worth restoring.

When the wood was given a few coats of Captains Varnish, the mahogany looked great and the white oak looked OK. To a careful observer, there is a discrepancy in the two types of wood. Some may not like it. Some may think I went cheap. I think the wood is original but can't be sure.

If you put white oak combing boards on your CD27 the mismatch would be very noticeable - especially to you. I think you may always wonder why you didn't go the extra $$$$ and go with teak. A CD27 is too beautiful not to do her honors. IMHO anyway.

[aja]

Now, I hope none of you gave your wives a cubic zirconia for an engagement ring. Don't be cheap. Your Cape Dory deserves the same respect as any fine woman - cheap imitations just will not do. And like any other fine woman - she'll find out sooner or later that you used oak or ipe or plywood, and somehow, she'll make you pay for it later. If you can't afford it all at once - replace one coaming now and one later - she'll understand and she'll thank you.

We replaced all of our exterior teak withing the last 2 years and it was so much work - it would be a shame to go thru all that trouble and have it not be teak in the end. It was worth every penny. We are always complimented on the teak (even before we replaced it). It's really what sets Cape Dorys apart from the pack.

While we were working on the coamings, our van was broken into and about $700 worth of power tools were stolen - but they left $800 worth of teak in the van! Thank goodness the guy wasn't a sailor.

Here's a helpful and cheap tip... to hold the coamings in place while fitting, get yourself some cargo hold bars like these at Harbor Freight: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=95746

Or these http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=43569

A friend told us about them and we picked some up at PepBoys to get the job done fast on a Sunday ($80 with a couple of cargo bags that we didn't need). If we had thought about Harbor Freight, it would have cost us less than $20. They work great for holding the wood against the curve of the cockpit. The wood is hard to fit without them.

Diana

[Ron M.]

While it's good to accumulate tools - they often come in handy for future projects, to hold combing boards for fitting, a couple of 2x3's cut to the right length and sprung across the cockpit will hold your work well and tightly as you do what's needed.......for less than 5 bucks if you don't have anything in inventory........cheap is one thing, frugal another !
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Ford Corsair History

[Sandy D.]

Seth,
I just got through putting coat # 3 on my set of spankin' knew teak coamings for my CD27. The cost is around $300 for the raw wood. Worth every penny in my opinion. Kind of tough around these parts to even find a 1"x10"x8' teak board. These boards are so beautiful I couldn't imagine using any thing but teak. I also couldn't imagine putting any other kind of finish on this georgous wood other than a good spar varnish!!

Thanks for the tip Diana.

Have Fun.
-sandy

[Sethrkallman]

Thanks all. I appreciate all your input and guidance. The beauty of the teak. Ah the cost around here is a little much. The best price I could find was $ 19.85/ bf. or $200 per. And We are in the lumber and construction buissness. We have decided to make a set out of white oak. Keep the originals in the top of the barn. ( perhaps after everything else is complete, ha ) we can make a set of teak boards in a year or so.

Meanwhile. We have the engine out. single cyl, raw water cooled yanmar, dead, sleeves pitted, governor seized, etc replacing the engine, w/ ? ( any ideas) Replacing all the hoses, rebuild or replace all thru hulls. The boat had been on the "hard" for 3 or so years . and neglected for some time prior to that, before we bought it. The Hull is very good, Just some sanding and paint on the bottom and a little gelcoat repair above. Hope to have it in the water by early summer., That is if paying work does not interfere too much.
thanks again
Be well
and we really appreciate all your assistance

[Oswego John]

Hi Dick,

I have to purshase some teak veneer. I'm wondering where you bought yours? I don't need it to be 10' long but the 24" width is what I'll be needing.

How do you plan to attach the veneer. Are you going to use contact cement, or have you found a better way.

Thanks for any info,
O J
BTW: If anyone else has any good tips and ideas on teak veneering, please feel free to chime in. O J

[The Patriot]

... BTW: If anyone else has any good tips and ideas on teak veneering, please feel free to chime in ...

I did a bit of repair work with veneer last summer (cabin sole and various). I purchased a 2' x 8' sheet and can look up the source if you like. What is your application?