Folks,
My CD was stored on the hard for 6 years. It needs bright work badly. The teak needs attention. Do you prefer teak oil, varnish or something else?
Thanks
Charlie
Need Advice -- brightwork
Moderator: Jim Walsh
Need Advice -- brightwork
Charlie Russell
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The Patriot
- Posts: 380
- Joined: Mar 14th, '05, 09:14
Re: Need Advice
People here (and frankly elsewhere) seem to like Cetol Natural quite a bit. I used it last summer on my CD 28 that had been sitting for quite some time (i.e., years), and the results are quite satisfactory. Regarding varnish, others will have to provide details, but there's nothing quite like a GOOD varnish job. For me, life is too short, but then I have never cultivated the skills to do it right.crussell wrote:Folks,
My CD was stored on the hard for 6 years. It needs bright work badly. The teak needs attention. Do you prefer teak oil, varnish or something else?
Thanks
Charlie
The Cetol was quick, easy, and effective, but the preparation for either oil or varnish is quite probably the most important step, and there's a pile of work involved, even on a 28 foot boat.
Ditto the above
Great advice above. I can't add to it except to say some people prefer natural Cetol, some with the Cetol Marine and some with the Cetol Gloss. You have to decide ahead of time what finish you'd like to see (and maintain) on your boat.
Bottom line:
1) Preparation is the most important step
2) See #1
Bottom line:
1) Preparation is the most important step
2) See #1
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Clay Stalker
- Posts: 390
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 12:07
- Location: 17' Town Class Sloop
Nice Job!!
Very nice slide show, enjoyed it a lot. Boat and family look great. One minor question, I noticed the "Yankees" hats.....did the store run out of the "Boston" ones??? 
Clay Stalker
Westmoreland, NH and Spofford Lake, NH
Westmoreland, NH and Spofford Lake, NH
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jerryaxler
- Posts: 271
- Joined: Feb 13th, '05, 14:10
- Location: Cape Dory 36, Shana, Rock Hall, MD
teak
I use Armada gloss which is another formula brought to you by the folks who developed Cetol. It has a less "orange" look to me.
Fairwinds and following seas,
Jerry Axler
Jerry Axler
teak oil with cetol clear
Does anyone have any other observations regarding cetol over teak oil?
Thanks JBA
Thanks JBA
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boom2it
- Posts: 74
- Joined: Mar 5th, '07, 17:12
- Location: "Gael Force"
1983 CD Typhoon
#1910
City Island, NY
yankee's hats
I guess I should break out the CHAMPION GIANTS hats this year......
I researched the teak finishing methods last year before having a clue as to what products to use. I found the most useful information right here on this board through the search function, plenty to read. That is where I got the oil and cetol method. Also the book below uses some of these same methods. I found the best method is elbow grease in the prep work, the actual finishing is easy, but frustrating having to wait between coats.
http://www.amazon.com/Brightwork-Finish ... 0877429847
I researched the teak finishing methods last year before having a clue as to what products to use. I found the most useful information right here on this board through the search function, plenty to read. That is where I got the oil and cetol method. Also the book below uses some of these same methods. I found the best method is elbow grease in the prep work, the actual finishing is easy, but frustrating having to wait between coats.
http://www.amazon.com/Brightwork-Finish ... 0877429847
Gael Force
City Island NY
83 TY WKNDR
City Island NY
83 TY WKNDR
Regarding Cetol over teak oil, I have a few thoughts.
I used teak oil for years on our Typhoon and while it worked it went black fairly quickly even in a pure environment like northern Lake Superior. I ended up putting 11 coats of Goldspar varnish on the teak and, well that substantially changed things. That application lasted my buddy, who bought the boat, five seasons.
The teak on our 33 was all varnished and in poor condition when we got her so after stripping I used three coats of Cetol Light. I have restrictive time constraints for this work and small weather windows up here but it worked fairly well. I put it on four seasons ago and just touched up the toe rails last season. I could use Cetol gloss over it to add UV strength and gloss but I am into "protect the wood, simply and efficiently" and this way I can carry only one can. I found the Cetol lasted longer, was almost as easy to apply as oil and I could worry about weather less than varnish and needs less coats so it works for me.
The thing to think about with oil is how often will you need to sand? If you plan on having your boat over seven years you may find yourself wearing down the wood enough to consider replacement. You can use the teak cleaning systems, cleaner, brightener and oil but I found I still needed to sand some each season.
Hope this helps lengthen an absolutely ENDLESS discussion. Makes life worth living though if you ask me! I am a happy man with a foam brush and can of Cetol/varnish or oil in my hand on a nice day, really, I don't mind it one bit!
Paul
I used teak oil for years on our Typhoon and while it worked it went black fairly quickly even in a pure environment like northern Lake Superior. I ended up putting 11 coats of Goldspar varnish on the teak and, well that substantially changed things. That application lasted my buddy, who bought the boat, five seasons.
The teak on our 33 was all varnished and in poor condition when we got her so after stripping I used three coats of Cetol Light. I have restrictive time constraints for this work and small weather windows up here but it worked fairly well. I put it on four seasons ago and just touched up the toe rails last season. I could use Cetol gloss over it to add UV strength and gloss but I am into "protect the wood, simply and efficiently" and this way I can carry only one can. I found the Cetol lasted longer, was almost as easy to apply as oil and I could worry about weather less than varnish and needs less coats so it works for me.
The thing to think about with oil is how often will you need to sand? If you plan on having your boat over seven years you may find yourself wearing down the wood enough to consider replacement. You can use the teak cleaning systems, cleaner, brightener and oil but I found I still needed to sand some each season.
Hope this helps lengthen an absolutely ENDLESS discussion. Makes life worth living though if you ask me! I am a happy man with a foam brush and can of Cetol/varnish or oil in my hand on a nice day, really, I don't mind it one bit!
Paul
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Dick Kobayashi
- Posts: 596
- Joined: Apr 2nd, '05, 16:31
- Location: Former owner of 3 CDs, most recently Susan B, a 25D
Cleaned but Untreated
I only clean (with Joy plus a little clorox). My teak is a nice ash grey - I get many admiring comments...I am happy with this solution.
Dick K
CD 25D Susan B #104
Mattapoisett, MA
Fleet Captain - Northeast Fleet 2014/2015
Tempus Fugit. And not only that, it goes by fast. (Ron Vacarro 1945 - 1971)
CD 25D Susan B #104
Mattapoisett, MA
Fleet Captain - Northeast Fleet 2014/2015
Tempus Fugit. And not only that, it goes by fast. (Ron Vacarro 1945 - 1971)
Too late, but can't help myself
Charlie,
You have already ordered the cetol, so this post comes a bit too late. But allow me just to put in a word for tradition. Varnish is a pain in the neck. And elbows. And fingers. And time. But oh... it is like writing with a fountain pen. (Which I do.) It is like typing with a manual typewriter. (Which I only rarely do anymore.)
I am in the midst, as we speak, of sanding, mixing saw dust with epoxy to fill gaps, thinning varnish for the first coats, sanding some more, and then laying down more varnish ... yes, yes and yes again, it is all a pain in every joint of the body.
But how can you not fall in love with Rebecca Wittman and her books on varnishing? (I suggest the small "The Brightwork Companion.") How can you resist using a formula used by the ancient Egyptians? (oils and resins.) How can you not admire a woman who knows how to use sanding machine and brush better than anyone and yet attributes her book (and quotes from) old masters of the art?
Yes, for the glossy shine. Yes, for those that will stop at you boat -- those who can see the difference between cetol and the traditional ways of our ancestors -- and nod their head. (That's all the praise you will get from them if you did it right.) Yes for the glory of casually mentioning that you laid down 10, 11, 12 coats over the coarse of two weeks last winter. Yes, for all that.
But mostly, because what the hell else do I have to do all winter long except work on my ship's wheel, combing boards, belaying pins and throttle handles?
-Mathias
You have already ordered the cetol, so this post comes a bit too late. But allow me just to put in a word for tradition. Varnish is a pain in the neck. And elbows. And fingers. And time. But oh... it is like writing with a fountain pen. (Which I do.) It is like typing with a manual typewriter. (Which I only rarely do anymore.)
I am in the midst, as we speak, of sanding, mixing saw dust with epoxy to fill gaps, thinning varnish for the first coats, sanding some more, and then laying down more varnish ... yes, yes and yes again, it is all a pain in every joint of the body.
But how can you not fall in love with Rebecca Wittman and her books on varnishing? (I suggest the small "The Brightwork Companion.") How can you resist using a formula used by the ancient Egyptians? (oils and resins.) How can you not admire a woman who knows how to use sanding machine and brush better than anyone and yet attributes her book (and quotes from) old masters of the art?
Yes, for the glossy shine. Yes, for those that will stop at you boat -- those who can see the difference between cetol and the traditional ways of our ancestors -- and nod their head. (That's all the praise you will get from them if you did it right.) Yes for the glory of casually mentioning that you laid down 10, 11, 12 coats over the coarse of two weeks last winter. Yes, for all that.
But mostly, because what the hell else do I have to do all winter long except work on my ship's wheel, combing boards, belaying pins and throttle handles?
-Mathias
Sunset, CD25
Lake Champlain
Lake Champlain
HONEY TEAK
Hi,
My brightwork situation is getting a little complicated--but based on what I read on this board, I purchased Honey teak. Teak oil is very easy but it lasts about a week in our southern climate. The previous owner of my boat used cetol and it looks orange to me. I have put some of the honey on-- you have to follow the directions very carefully-- but you put it on wet on wet so its not so time consuming and it is a really pretty color. I'll let you know how it turns out.
My brightwork situation is getting a little complicated--but based on what I read on this board, I purchased Honey teak. Teak oil is very easy but it lasts about a week in our southern climate. The previous owner of my boat used cetol and it looks orange to me. I have put some of the honey on-- you have to follow the directions very carefully-- but you put it on wet on wet so its not so time consuming and it is a really pretty color. I'll let you know how it turns out.
teak oil
I prefer the look and feel of bare wood, so I use teak oil only. This might be impractical on a larger boat, since without varnish the exposure to the elements makes it necessary to reapply oil every three or four months. However, since I pull my Ty out of the water when I'm done and store it under a tarp in my backyard, I only need to apply a single coat of teak oil once a year - brush it on, rub it in, wipe up the excess - and it looks like it did when it was newly refinished.
I got most of my advice from a website that recommended sanding w/ 60 - 120 - 220, and then applying five coats of teak oil, letting each coat soak in for one or two days before applying the next. This produced a finish that lasted about one year before I started to notice a little fading, which was then completely treated with one thin coat of teak oil.
I got most of my advice from a website that recommended sanding w/ 60 - 120 - 220, and then applying five coats of teak oil, letting each coat soak in for one or two days before applying the next. This produced a finish that lasted about one year before I started to notice a little fading, which was then completely treated with one thin coat of teak oil.