Hi all,
Its a new year and a new passage is at hand so its time for a new thread.
Fenix and I started out from NZ, went to OZ then Indonesia, Singapore, Maylasia and finally Thailand. All in all I had a good time and had my shorts nearly stained a couple of times...pretty typical sailing experiences for a single hander.
I am leaving bright and early Tuesday the 15th, for Male, in the Maldives islands. About 1,500 miles, so 2~3 weeks. Looks to be a good place, all atolls. Could be slow going as we will be skirting the doldrums most of the way.
Then I will slowly work south through Seychelles, Mauritius, Rodrigez, Reunion, Madagascar and finally South Africa. At least that's the general plan, as always subject to change without notice.
As Feb nears many of you will be shivering your shorts off...
Neener, neener, neener, while I'll be nice and toasty. Yes I'm rubbing it in.
All the pics and updates have been made to the website. And nothing new for a while, can be expected.
I will be reporting to the ham nets again so my position reports should start showing up in a few days.
Enjoy the snow and blustery winds and think sailing thoughts, it won't be too long afore y'all be sailing again.
Take care,
Fred
FeNIX to Male, Maldives
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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fenixrises
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FeNIX to Male, Maldives
You should always have an odd number of holes in your boat!
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Jerry Hammernik
- Posts: 258
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 15:02
- Location: Lion's Paw CD 28 #341
Lake Michigan
OZ
OZ is slang for Australia.
Jerry Hammernik
"Money can't buy happiness, but it sure can buy a lot of things that will make me happy."
"Money can't buy happiness, but it sure can buy a lot of things that will make me happy."
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barfwinkle
- Posts: 2169
- Joined: Feb 6th, '05, 10:34
- Location: S/V Rhapsody CD25D
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Bill Cochrane
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- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 13:42
- Location: Cape Dory 36 #114
s/v Phoenix
Fred's ham call
Call sign is KI4MMB. Track him at http://shiptrak.org/
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fenixrises
- Posts: 450
- Joined: Feb 13th, '05, 08:01
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Fenix in Hulhumale, Maldives
Hi all,
Fenix and I had a pleasant, often frustrating,slow trip to the Maldives. The first 5 days were pretty good, knocking off 3, 130+ mile days. The second 5 days were filled with little wind, no wind or contrary wind. I often had to try to make headway in washing machine seas, there being converging currents and tidal overfalls in the area. 100% overcast was the norm and an occasional downpour. The rain is refreshing but bothersome in that I must close up the boat to keep it out. Then its hot and humid below. The final 6 days were near ideal weather wise. Warm but not too hot, good breeze, low, regular seas BUT the wind from a little too forward the beam.
This meant that I was close hauled at all times. When the wind shifted a bit to the north I could make my course, except that there is a south setting current in that area of the ocean. The current would usually push me far enough south that I had to sail about 18 hours on a str'b tack and 6 hours on port. I couldn't quite make due north so often lost westing when on the port tack. ARGGH! Normally the wind was 12knots or so. Fenix VMG'ed when conditions were ideal, alas that was not too often.
On the last day I couldn't make the lagoon in good daylight so spent the last night slowly drifting back about ENE. Then about 3AM I set sail, slowly heading back to Male`. I arrived right at sunrise. I entered the lagoon, its quite easy really, deep water, wide channels and few reefs.
The main problem with Male is a total lack of anchorages for small boats. There a couple of thin patches on the chart - 10 to 15 meters of water. But trying to find them single-handed under the prevalent conditions was hard. Eventually the Maldivian Coast Guard pulled alongside for an inspection, then I had to drop the hook. They were courteous and only took a few minutes. You must use an agent to check in as you cannot go ashore first and there are no small boat harbors for visiting yachts.
I contacted an agent by VHF. A couple of hours later his representative showed up with two officials in a launch. Check in was completed in 1/2 hour except for immigration, that was handled ashore by the rep. Then I was free to move over to Hulhumale, about 3 miles north. Of course by this time it was getting late and I was concerned about getting into the "Boat Lagoon" before sunset. I wound up dropping the hook in the dark.
The boat lagoon is a large area on the west side of Hulhumale, north of the airport runway. Much of the water is about 10 meters deep and it is clear and easy to see shallows when approaching, but not in the dark. Hulhumale's main purpose is as an airport since Male` is completely covered with buildings. Except for streets, allys, sidewalks and a couple of parks it is packed. There is a ferry service to Male every half hour, cost about $0.45, that's a good deal. Hulhumale has a small village about 1/2 mile from the ferry terminal but that's all, otherwise its off to Male` for just about everything.
During the trip my auto pilot died. I took it apart and saw about 6 places on the pc board that were corroded from water leaking in. Fortunately Maldives are duty free so I ordered a new one. The failed a/p probably cost me one day on the passage because there were times when the wind was too light to use the windvane as an a/p. I would sleep in the cockpit while putt-putting along westward but often woke to find myself way off course.
While Maldives is a busy place heavily geared to tourism the gov't is taking steps to make it undesirable to come here on a cruising boat. Starting March 1st this year they are instituting a new policy. A 275 euro charge across the board for a maximum stay of 21 days. Cruising to only Male` and south Male` atoll is permitted. Right now the still available cruising permit is about $450 for one month. It seems the islands of the north Indian ocean are going to become off limits for cruising boats, unless you have big bucks. This is a real shame as the Maldives are a large string of atolls with many beautiful anchorages, warm clear water and lots of excellent places to see.
I'm not sure why they are doing this, probably too much bother for no visible return. Yet places like Malaysia and NZ charge nothing and appreciate the yachties who do come for a visit. In Maylasia you can get a 5-10 year visa. The gov't calls it "Malaysia As My Second Home". I can see a time in the near term when it will cost more to visit each country than it cost to buy food for a month, about the average staying time, for one person.
After looking at the pilot charts I have decided I will have bypass Rodriguez. It is too far back east and would be a real slug into the SE trades. And it is too early to go that far south, cyclones. Since I'll be crossing the equator and the doldrums again I will definitely need the a/p. I was planning to go to the Seychelles(4*S40 x 55*E30) orginally but thought I could also make Rodriguez. After that its down south to Maritius.
Take care and watch out for falling icycles,
Fred
Fenix and I had a pleasant, often frustrating,slow trip to the Maldives. The first 5 days were pretty good, knocking off 3, 130+ mile days. The second 5 days were filled with little wind, no wind or contrary wind. I often had to try to make headway in washing machine seas, there being converging currents and tidal overfalls in the area. 100% overcast was the norm and an occasional downpour. The rain is refreshing but bothersome in that I must close up the boat to keep it out. Then its hot and humid below. The final 6 days were near ideal weather wise. Warm but not too hot, good breeze, low, regular seas BUT the wind from a little too forward the beam.
This meant that I was close hauled at all times. When the wind shifted a bit to the north I could make my course, except that there is a south setting current in that area of the ocean. The current would usually push me far enough south that I had to sail about 18 hours on a str'b tack and 6 hours on port. I couldn't quite make due north so often lost westing when on the port tack. ARGGH! Normally the wind was 12knots or so. Fenix VMG'ed when conditions were ideal, alas that was not too often.
On the last day I couldn't make the lagoon in good daylight so spent the last night slowly drifting back about ENE. Then about 3AM I set sail, slowly heading back to Male`. I arrived right at sunrise. I entered the lagoon, its quite easy really, deep water, wide channels and few reefs.
The main problem with Male is a total lack of anchorages for small boats. There a couple of thin patches on the chart - 10 to 15 meters of water. But trying to find them single-handed under the prevalent conditions was hard. Eventually the Maldivian Coast Guard pulled alongside for an inspection, then I had to drop the hook. They were courteous and only took a few minutes. You must use an agent to check in as you cannot go ashore first and there are no small boat harbors for visiting yachts.
I contacted an agent by VHF. A couple of hours later his representative showed up with two officials in a launch. Check in was completed in 1/2 hour except for immigration, that was handled ashore by the rep. Then I was free to move over to Hulhumale, about 3 miles north. Of course by this time it was getting late and I was concerned about getting into the "Boat Lagoon" before sunset. I wound up dropping the hook in the dark.
The boat lagoon is a large area on the west side of Hulhumale, north of the airport runway. Much of the water is about 10 meters deep and it is clear and easy to see shallows when approaching, but not in the dark. Hulhumale's main purpose is as an airport since Male` is completely covered with buildings. Except for streets, allys, sidewalks and a couple of parks it is packed. There is a ferry service to Male every half hour, cost about $0.45, that's a good deal. Hulhumale has a small village about 1/2 mile from the ferry terminal but that's all, otherwise its off to Male` for just about everything.
During the trip my auto pilot died. I took it apart and saw about 6 places on the pc board that were corroded from water leaking in. Fortunately Maldives are duty free so I ordered a new one. The failed a/p probably cost me one day on the passage because there were times when the wind was too light to use the windvane as an a/p. I would sleep in the cockpit while putt-putting along westward but often woke to find myself way off course.
While Maldives is a busy place heavily geared to tourism the gov't is taking steps to make it undesirable to come here on a cruising boat. Starting March 1st this year they are instituting a new policy. A 275 euro charge across the board for a maximum stay of 21 days. Cruising to only Male` and south Male` atoll is permitted. Right now the still available cruising permit is about $450 for one month. It seems the islands of the north Indian ocean are going to become off limits for cruising boats, unless you have big bucks. This is a real shame as the Maldives are a large string of atolls with many beautiful anchorages, warm clear water and lots of excellent places to see.
I'm not sure why they are doing this, probably too much bother for no visible return. Yet places like Malaysia and NZ charge nothing and appreciate the yachties who do come for a visit. In Maylasia you can get a 5-10 year visa. The gov't calls it "Malaysia As My Second Home". I can see a time in the near term when it will cost more to visit each country than it cost to buy food for a month, about the average staying time, for one person.
After looking at the pilot charts I have decided I will have bypass Rodriguez. It is too far back east and would be a real slug into the SE trades. And it is too early to go that far south, cyclones. Since I'll be crossing the equator and the doldrums again I will definitely need the a/p. I was planning to go to the Seychelles(4*S40 x 55*E30) orginally but thought I could also make Rodriguez. After that its down south to Maritius.
Take care and watch out for falling icycles,
Fred
You should always have an odd number of holes in your boat!
Welcome Back Ashore Fred
Good work Fred, and congratulations on your successful passage. Thanks for your updates. Good luck with your autopilot and your next passage.
-19F this weekend up here but clear and beautiful, the Ojibway called this kisinaa I believe.
Paul
Mpls MN
-19F this weekend up here but clear and beautiful, the Ojibway called this kisinaa I believe.
Paul
Mpls MN
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John Vigor
- Posts: 608
- Joined: Aug 27th, '06, 15:58
- Contact:
Rounding the Cape of Storms
Fred, it's early days yet--I know you probably won't be in South Africa until November or December--but if you need advice on how best to round the Cape, the 800 miles from Durban to Cape Town, I can give you the concentrated wisdom of a couple of generations of South African sailors who make that trip all the time.
The Cape has a fearsome reputation, but once you know the generic sailing plan it's a lot easier than most people think. I've done it twice, once with a rookie crew composed of my wife and teenage son. So if you would like some tips, just remind me later in the year.
I can also give you the facts about St. Helena Island--what's available, how much it costs, and where best to anchor. I was there last year.
Enjoy the Maldives while you can. I don't think many small boats will be calling there in the not-too-distant future.
Cheers,
John Vigor
The Cape has a fearsome reputation, but once you know the generic sailing plan it's a lot easier than most people think. I've done it twice, once with a rookie crew composed of my wife and teenage son. So if you would like some tips, just remind me later in the year.
I can also give you the facts about St. Helena Island--what's available, how much it costs, and where best to anchor. I was there last year.
Enjoy the Maldives while you can. I don't think many small boats will be calling there in the not-too-distant future.
Cheers,
John Vigor
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fenixrises
- Posts: 450
- Joined: Feb 13th, '05, 08:01
- Location: SunShine S2 11c
- Contact:
Info from John
Hi John,
Any and all info gladly accepted.
You can e-mail or send as a private message on the board.
Still waiting for new a/p then its off to Seychelles.
Take care,
Fred
Any and all info gladly accepted.
You can e-mail or send as a private message on the board.
Still waiting for new a/p then its off to Seychelles.
Take care,
Fred
You should always have an odd number of holes in your boat!
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The Patriot
- Posts: 380
- Joined: Mar 14th, '05, 09:14
Re: Info from John
Fred, what kind of light air performance are you seeing with the Aries?fenixrises wrote: ... Still waiting for new a/p then its off to Seychelles ...
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fenixrises
- Posts: 450
- Joined: Feb 13th, '05, 08:01
- Location: SunShine S2 11c
- Contact:
Fenix in Seychelles Part I
Hi all,
Fenix and I sailed into Mahe, Seychells, Friday morning right at sunrise. Done in 13 days the trip from the Maldives was pretty good.
The trip started in light NE conditions and as I got farther west the wind went more north. For a couple of days we really were honking. 144 miles on one day followed by 168 miles the next. That's a 7 knot average speed for 24 hours, really amazing in a 28' boat.
This was done with the yankee and single reefed main in 20~25 knots on a beam reach. I'm sure there was a west setting current giving me about a one knot boost but still an outstanding run and the most miles in 24 hours so far.
I met a French couple, in the Maldives, with two teenage sons on a big steel boat, about 50'. They left two days before me and also had a 13 day passage. I have often found that boats much larger the Fenix rarely have significantly faster passages. Of course at 17 tons they are teeny bit more comfortable.
I sailed from the Maldives at about 4*N20' ~ 4*N30' and stayed there until I reached 60*E. Then I angled down to cross the equator at 55*E and on due south to Mahe at about 4*S38' X 55*E38'.
It was a good passage with only a small amount of too light wind. I do not think I used more than 2 gals of diesel the whole way. Of course the weather gods had to play with me a little bit. On the last afternoon and early evening a really BIG squall came through.
35 knots and gusting to blowing water horizontal off the wave tops, accompanied by pouring, driving rain. This was on a dark and at the time moonless night. I hate when that happens as I'm drawing close to land. By that time I was on soundings, about 200' of water and there are a number of small islands about.
About midnight it finally blew itself out. The last quarter moon came up and the stars returned. Whew. Early in the morning I had a local fishing boat chaperone me past a couple of small rocks. Very good of him to pace me until the danger was past.
I pulled into the quarentine area and was checked in short order by a small group of officials. All were very pleasant and friendly. Then I moved Fenix to the Inner Harbour and dropped the hook. I got the dingy overboard, stopped by to said hi to my French friends and then went in search of my first cold Coke in two weeks. More later.
Take care,
Fred
PS The Aries does fine until the appearent wind speed falls below about 5~6 knots. This is not enough wind pressure to push the wind vane blade, convincingly. In these conditions I use the A/P. On a boat without a balanced or partially balanced rudder and/or a lot of friction in the rudder post I think the lower limit would be about 8~10 knots appearent wind speed possibly more.
Fenix and I sailed into Mahe, Seychells, Friday morning right at sunrise. Done in 13 days the trip from the Maldives was pretty good.
The trip started in light NE conditions and as I got farther west the wind went more north. For a couple of days we really were honking. 144 miles on one day followed by 168 miles the next. That's a 7 knot average speed for 24 hours, really amazing in a 28' boat.
This was done with the yankee and single reefed main in 20~25 knots on a beam reach. I'm sure there was a west setting current giving me about a one knot boost but still an outstanding run and the most miles in 24 hours so far.
I met a French couple, in the Maldives, with two teenage sons on a big steel boat, about 50'. They left two days before me and also had a 13 day passage. I have often found that boats much larger the Fenix rarely have significantly faster passages. Of course at 17 tons they are teeny bit more comfortable.
I sailed from the Maldives at about 4*N20' ~ 4*N30' and stayed there until I reached 60*E. Then I angled down to cross the equator at 55*E and on due south to Mahe at about 4*S38' X 55*E38'.
It was a good passage with only a small amount of too light wind. I do not think I used more than 2 gals of diesel the whole way. Of course the weather gods had to play with me a little bit. On the last afternoon and early evening a really BIG squall came through.
35 knots and gusting to blowing water horizontal off the wave tops, accompanied by pouring, driving rain. This was on a dark and at the time moonless night. I hate when that happens as I'm drawing close to land. By that time I was on soundings, about 200' of water and there are a number of small islands about.
About midnight it finally blew itself out. The last quarter moon came up and the stars returned. Whew. Early in the morning I had a local fishing boat chaperone me past a couple of small rocks. Very good of him to pace me until the danger was past.
I pulled into the quarentine area and was checked in short order by a small group of officials. All were very pleasant and friendly. Then I moved Fenix to the Inner Harbour and dropped the hook. I got the dingy overboard, stopped by to said hi to my French friends and then went in search of my first cold Coke in two weeks. More later.
Take care,
Fred
PS The Aries does fine until the appearent wind speed falls below about 5~6 knots. This is not enough wind pressure to push the wind vane blade, convincingly. In these conditions I use the A/P. On a boat without a balanced or partially balanced rudder and/or a lot of friction in the rudder post I think the lower limit would be about 8~10 knots appearent wind speed possibly more.
You should always have an odd number of holes in your boat!
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The Patriot
- Posts: 380
- Joined: Mar 14th, '05, 09:14
Re: Fenix in Seychelles Part I
I was wondering how this unit would work on a small cruiser in light air. My own CD 28 is fitted with a Navik, which when compared to the Aries looks a bit lightweight and is probably not at all as sturdy. However it turns out to be quite resilient (after you get to know it and its weak points and make allowances). The main attraction for me way back when was the price, and the potential for light air performance due to the "double servo" idea that is the basis for the unit. That, and the fact that so many French single-handers swore by it. Unfortunately Scanmar is no longer supporting the Navik, so it is a good idea to always be on the lookout for spares.fenixrises wrote: ... The Aries does fine until the appearent wind speed falls below about 5~6 knots. This is not enough wind pressure to push the wind vane blade, convincingly. In these conditions I use the A/P. On a boat without a balanced or partially balanced rudder and/or a lot of friction in the rudder post I think the lower limit would be about 8~10 knots appearent wind speed possibly more.
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John Vigor
- Posts: 608
- Joined: Aug 27th, '06, 15:58
- Contact:
Fred, watch for e-mail
Fred:
I have sent you some dope about how to round the Cape, etc., at your Yahoo e-mail address. Please let me know if you don't get it.
Cheers,
John Vigor
I have sent you some dope about how to round the Cape, etc., at your Yahoo e-mail address. Please let me know if you don't get it.
Cheers,
John Vigor
Fred, don't look now, but I see someone chasing you!
He left California last autumn in a somewhat modified (kindred spirit?) Montgomery 17 and recently reached French Polynesia. I guess his next major landfall is supposed to be New Caledonia, with a final destination of South Africa (where he is from). Here he is, with the builder, with the boat in the water for the first time.
<img width=540 src=http://www.msogphotosite.com/MSOG/bnami ... ibia27.jpg>
<img width=540 src=http://www.msogphotosite.com/MSOG/bnami ... ibia27.jpg>
Tod Mills
Montgomery 17 "BuscaBrisas", Sandusky, OH (with trips elsewhere)
Tartan 26 project boat
Cape Dory admirer
Montgomery 17 "BuscaBrisas", Sandusky, OH (with trips elsewhere)
Tartan 26 project boat
Cape Dory admirer
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fenixrises
- Posts: 450
- Joined: Feb 13th, '05, 08:01
- Location: SunShine S2 11c
- Contact:
Comments and Part II
Hi all,
I just got the e-mail John, thanks a bunch. Haven't read it all yet.
As for being followed...
The Montgomery 17 and 25? are both Lyle Hess designs. He's no stranger to small boats. I recall that many years ago one of Mongomery's employes's bought and modified a M17 then sailed down the west coast to Cape Horn and beyond. Now that's guts!
There are many smaller boats out and about, cruising the ocean. The latest I have heard is a woman on a 22' glass over ply, single hander and doing great. I also saw a swede? in Phuket aboard a very neat 25' double ender.
So you do not need a big(er) boat to be out here. You've heard it all before, many times. All it takes is a decision.
The Seychelles... Interesting place. Once French, then English now independent. Seems the official language is english but normal conversation is in creole french. Its poor but not destitude. And quite a change from Asia. HAve yet to find one really good big food store, so I'll be store hopping to fill the larder. Strange that there are almost no scooters or bicycles but lots of cars. A good bus system covers the island pretty well.
Some of the outer islands are geared for tourist with fancy resorts, don't think I'll bother with them.
The Seychelles YC is the daily meeting place for many or the cruisers. A number have younger children. The kids seem to thirve on the life. Meeting people from all over and picking up forgeign languages.
Meeting many people here via Suez or from around Good Hope. Yesterday we had a book swap, always a good idea to re-fill the library. And I just found out this evening one of the fellows in the harbor whom I met at the swap was found aboard his boat today dead from a heart attack. He was 58 and single handing. Now there'a shocker!
Take care and don't wait too long to go sailing,
Fred
I just got the e-mail John, thanks a bunch. Haven't read it all yet.
As for being followed...
The Montgomery 17 and 25? are both Lyle Hess designs. He's no stranger to small boats. I recall that many years ago one of Mongomery's employes's bought and modified a M17 then sailed down the west coast to Cape Horn and beyond. Now that's guts!
There are many smaller boats out and about, cruising the ocean. The latest I have heard is a woman on a 22' glass over ply, single hander and doing great. I also saw a swede? in Phuket aboard a very neat 25' double ender.
So you do not need a big(er) boat to be out here. You've heard it all before, many times. All it takes is a decision.
The Seychelles... Interesting place. Once French, then English now independent. Seems the official language is english but normal conversation is in creole french. Its poor but not destitude. And quite a change from Asia. HAve yet to find one really good big food store, so I'll be store hopping to fill the larder. Strange that there are almost no scooters or bicycles but lots of cars. A good bus system covers the island pretty well.
Some of the outer islands are geared for tourist with fancy resorts, don't think I'll bother with them.
The Seychelles YC is the daily meeting place for many or the cruisers. A number have younger children. The kids seem to thirve on the life. Meeting people from all over and picking up forgeign languages.
Meeting many people here via Suez or from around Good Hope. Yesterday we had a book swap, always a good idea to re-fill the library. And I just found out this evening one of the fellows in the harbor whom I met at the swap was found aboard his boat today dead from a heart attack. He was 58 and single handing. Now there'a shocker!
Take care and don't wait too long to go sailing,
Fred
You should always have an odd number of holes in your boat!