Typhoon ventilation
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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james hubbard
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Feb 13th, '08, 10:44
- Location: Typhoon, Rebecca Anne, Corpus Christi
Typhoon ventilation
I need to figure out how to improve ventilation in my Typhoon, Rebecca Anne. I currently have a 3" cowl vent on the fore deck, just forward of the cabin, and am considering a Nicro Vent to replace it. Will the Nicro Vent tolerate being awash at times? I am open to suggestions. Thanks, James
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Jim Sullivan
- Posts: 80
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 13:47
- Location: Past owner of '71 and '73 CD Typhoon; '83 CD22D. Current owner of M/V ATEA IV, 21' lobster boat.
ventilation
James:
On my previously owned Typhoon, I had a vent (flat louvered stainless steel) installed in the upper companionway drop board. This allowed for air circulation forward to aft. I have seen many boats with a vent in this location. My CD22D also had a louvered vent in the upper drop board. I am not sure if a Nicro vent can tolerate being awash at times. You may wish to consult the manufacturer. Perhaps others will comment on this issue. Good luck.
Jim
On my previously owned Typhoon, I had a vent (flat louvered stainless steel) installed in the upper companionway drop board. This allowed for air circulation forward to aft. I have seen many boats with a vent in this location. My CD22D also had a louvered vent in the upper drop board. I am not sure if a Nicro vent can tolerate being awash at times. You may wish to consult the manufacturer. Perhaps others will comment on this issue. Good luck.
Jim
Nicro vent
I love my nicro solar vent. It does a great job. One was installed on my CD22 when I got her. It did such a great job we replaced the vents on my husbands 40' Colvic Victor with the nicro solar.
Here is a photo of mine:
<a href="http://s206.photobucket.com/albums/bb14 ... ory026.jpg" target="_blank"><img width="540" src="http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb14 ... ory026.jpg" border="0" alt="Greatest think since popcorn-solar vent"></a>
Here is a photo of mine:
<a href="http://s206.photobucket.com/albums/bb14 ... ory026.jpg" target="_blank"><img width="540" src="http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb14 ... ory026.jpg" border="0" alt="Greatest think since popcorn-solar vent"></a>
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sloopjohnl
- Posts: 206
- Joined: Aug 24th, '05, 05:43
- Location: Typhoon Weekender "DAERAY"
nicro solar vent
installed a white plastic nicro solar vent years ago on my '76 typhoon to solve a mildew problem from condensation early and late in the season. located it in the same position as the cowl vent. solved the mildew problem and is still there although it has been painted once.
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mashenden
- Posts: 510
- Joined: Apr 3rd, '05, 19:19
- Location: "Nautica" CD-36 #84, Ty-K #83, & CD-10 #1539 in Urbanna, VA. 4 other Tys in past
- Contact:
Solar vent
I too put a solar Nicro vent (white plastic) on my Ty. I think it is great and am sure it will withstand whatever water comes over the bow at it.
That said, it is on the deck, so I step on it regularly, which has cracked the plastic white cover such that it is just a matter of time before I kick the cover overboard. I fully intent to then buy a Stainless Steel unit and relocate the old one, then to be coverless, to an access hole in the aft part of the cockpit behind the tiller.
Matt A
That said, it is on the deck, so I step on it regularly, which has cracked the plastic white cover such that it is just a matter of time before I kick the cover overboard. I fully intent to then buy a Stainless Steel unit and relocate the old one, then to be coverless, to an access hole in the aft part of the cockpit behind the tiller.
Matt A
Matt Ashenden
- I used to like boating and fixing stuff, then I bought a couple of boats and now I just fix stuff
Oh, and please check out my webpage... http://VaRivah.com
- I used to like boating and fixing stuff, then I bought a couple of boats and now I just fix stuff
Oh, and please check out my webpage... http://VaRivah.com
Different Approach on ventilation
Following some rather unpleasant mildew and mold explosions, I have experimented with various ways of keeping things dry.
The conventional approach is to add ventilation, either passive or active and maybe a source of heat to keep the ability of the air to hold water from getting too low and condensing as it passes thru the boat.
I have settled on a different approach which has worked sucessfully which I will describe. It relies on the opposite approach, that is preventing ventilation, then using a desicant to keep the humidity level below condensation. To summarize, the goal is dry the boat and remove all sources of humidity, rather than keep the air moving and carry off the humidity.
The first step is to find and fix all leaks, above and below the water line. If water is standing in the bilge, you can never control the humidity. This process takes awhile including visits to the boat in pouring rain to inspect every fitting for any sign of a leak. The bilge must be and remain bone dry. Get a small pump (I use the "bridgmouth bailer" type" to suck out the last few drops of ice melt and shaft leakage following a cruise.
Close any vents to keep humid external air from getting into the dry boat.
Next, never allow any wet or salty items below deck for any reason. If something does get salty and wet (like the kids leave a wet swimsuit on the cushions), clean with fresh to get the salt out. Take all damp towels, swim suits, wet suits, etc. home and dry them. Don't ever leave them below unless they are free of salt and dry. Pump all the water out of the head. Close all the drains to sinks.
I use the marine "dehumidifier" sold by WM which is a slow speed fan and small heating element which runs continuosly to move the air around and warm it a bit. A simple fan blowing over a 75W light bulb works but is easy to break and could start a fire. Next to the dehumidifier, I place an open container of Calcium Chloride (sold under the trade name of Damp Rid) so the air from the fan blows over the desicant.
Depending on the size of your boat, you may need a second or third open container of Damp Rid placed at different strategic locations or even an additional fan.
Every week or three, depending on temperature and humidity, empty the liquid out of the Damp Rid desicants and refill if necessary. The one near the fan will wear out rather quickly but this is what you want, to keep the humidity levels low. To avoid potential spills of the desicant I leave it in the dock box when I go sailing.
The idea is to keep the interior humidty level low enough that it will never condense which is what allows the mildew and mold to grow. To find the right number of desicants, add more until you stop collecting much additional water.
I consume 2-3 containers of Damp Rid (each contains about 1/2 gal) per year, the bed sheets feel nice and dry (rather than damp and clammy), nothing smells like mildew, and below decks corrosion is greatly reduced.
-steve
The conventional approach is to add ventilation, either passive or active and maybe a source of heat to keep the ability of the air to hold water from getting too low and condensing as it passes thru the boat.
I have settled on a different approach which has worked sucessfully which I will describe. It relies on the opposite approach, that is preventing ventilation, then using a desicant to keep the humidity level below condensation. To summarize, the goal is dry the boat and remove all sources of humidity, rather than keep the air moving and carry off the humidity.
The first step is to find and fix all leaks, above and below the water line. If water is standing in the bilge, you can never control the humidity. This process takes awhile including visits to the boat in pouring rain to inspect every fitting for any sign of a leak. The bilge must be and remain bone dry. Get a small pump (I use the "bridgmouth bailer" type" to suck out the last few drops of ice melt and shaft leakage following a cruise.
Close any vents to keep humid external air from getting into the dry boat.
Next, never allow any wet or salty items below deck for any reason. If something does get salty and wet (like the kids leave a wet swimsuit on the cushions), clean with fresh to get the salt out. Take all damp towels, swim suits, wet suits, etc. home and dry them. Don't ever leave them below unless they are free of salt and dry. Pump all the water out of the head. Close all the drains to sinks.
I use the marine "dehumidifier" sold by WM which is a slow speed fan and small heating element which runs continuosly to move the air around and warm it a bit. A simple fan blowing over a 75W light bulb works but is easy to break and could start a fire. Next to the dehumidifier, I place an open container of Calcium Chloride (sold under the trade name of Damp Rid) so the air from the fan blows over the desicant.
Depending on the size of your boat, you may need a second or third open container of Damp Rid placed at different strategic locations or even an additional fan.
Every week or three, depending on temperature and humidity, empty the liquid out of the Damp Rid desicants and refill if necessary. The one near the fan will wear out rather quickly but this is what you want, to keep the humidity levels low. To avoid potential spills of the desicant I leave it in the dock box when I go sailing.
The idea is to keep the interior humidty level low enough that it will never condense which is what allows the mildew and mold to grow. To find the right number of desicants, add more until you stop collecting much additional water.
I consume 2-3 containers of Damp Rid (each contains about 1/2 gal) per year, the bed sheets feel nice and dry (rather than damp and clammy), nothing smells like mildew, and below decks corrosion is greatly reduced.
-steve