CD 28 shroud 'chainplate' images

[yamiracer]

http://s143.photobucket.com/albums/r126 ... ainplates/

all,

the link above shows images of early CD 28 shroud chainplates. port side inspection required the use of a mirror.

while surface rust is apparant, the plates themselves seem fine.

please feel free to comment.

rw

[Sea Hunt]

I know this is probably a really dumb question but did you cut out the access panels/spaces shown in the photos or are the access panels there from time of mfg

I noticed that the backing plates each have what I assume is a grounding/lightening wire attached at one of the bolts.

[Boyd]

I would suggest the "poke it with a screwdriver" test and see what falls off. The part that is most scarry is the side against the boat that you cant see.

Putting the level of pain in replacing these against the relatively small damage that is apparent now. I would be inclined to go with the "watchful waiting" strategy as opposed to radical surgery with all its collateral damage.

Rebedding the bolts and adding good sized washers looks fairly easy and could slow down the source of seawater intrusion.

Boyd
s/v Tern
CD30 MkII
Fort Lauderdale, Fla.

[yamiracer]

I know this is probably a really dumb question but did you cut out the access panels/spaces shown in the photos or are the access panels there from time of mfg

I noticed that the backing plates each have what I assume is a grounding/lightening wire attached at one of the bolts.

the cut-outs were covered by panels with the same ugly fake teak laminate used elsewhere in the boat, so i assume they were original. current owner bought the boat when it was 1 yr old, and he says the covers have been there since then. the covers were held in place by a rubbery sort of glue that was easily peeled away. removal of the covers was accomplished with a plastic spatula.

[John Ring]

[img]http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x105 ... deyes1.jpg[/img]

Those actually look pretty good. While you're in there, you might want to remove, clean, and rebed the padeyes with 4200 or similar to keep them healthy. I got new nuts, bolts, & washers from HamiltonMarine.com when I did mine. They are very good for hardware bits like that. The padeyes are not hard to remove once you're in there.

Best,
John Ring
CD28 #241
Tantalus

[yamiracer]

[img]http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x105 ... deyes1.jpg[/img]

Those actually look pretty good. While you're in there, you might want to remove, clean, and rebed the padeyes with 4200 or similar to keep them healthy. I got new nuts, bolts, & washers from HamiltonMarine.com when I did mine. They are very good for hardware bits like that. The padeyes are not hard to remove once you're in there.

Best,
John Ring
CD28 #241
Tantalus

hi john,

thanx for the input.

i didn't think the plates looked too bad, either. although, to the previous poster's point, it's the upper side i'm worried about. having said that, they do seem pretty solid, and the padeye bolts are very solid. i think your suggestion to remove and reseal the padeyes and bolts is a good one. also, thanx for the hardware source reference.

from the braindead department, i forgot to look at the bow and stern plates. ugh!

now, my only sticking point on this boat is price. hopefully, the owner and i can find common ground w/o ranker. i just don't have a contentous interaction in me on this deal.

rw

[paul marko]

I bought my cd 28 new in 1977 after about 4 years I noticed some rust streaks coming from the bow plate in the chain locker and upper shroud attachments in the hanging closet. I opened up a foot square inspection port in the liner near each chain plate. I pined ( hit with a hammer) each chain plate and the bow plate ,painted each with rustolioum,rebeded the plates on deck with 5200 and have not had any rust problems since. While I had the inspection ports open I added two layers of roven woving in epoxy to the rebar that was attached to the sides of the hull. The inspection ports in the liner, I covered with aluminiun sheets attached to the liner with ss metal screws.

The stern attachement pt. for the back stay was joke. I have rebuilt this with a ss plate and longer through bolts. The origenal re bar and fiberglass tabing was poorly exicuted at the factory and CD should be ashamed.

I am very happy with the use of Mild Steel for the chain plates. I have seen two boats lose masts with ss chain plates that failed due to corrouions induced cracks. These cracks in ss are not easly seen, whereas rust and distorion failure in mild steel is easy to see.

Sorry about the spelling-- not my strong pt.

paul marko

[Sea Hunt]

now, my only sticking point on this boat is price. hopefully, the owner and i can find common ground w/o ranker. i just don't have a contentous interaction in me on this deal.

rw

RW:

From the above, I get the impression that you have not yet purchased this CD 28. I am more than a little curious at how you were able to get the owner to agree to allow you to remove the glued on access panels to view the backing plates for the shroud chain plates for inspection before even making an offer.

Every CD seller I have met has been very gracious and kind and very much volunteering information, work done, go for a test sail, etc. But they have all stopped short at any suggestion by me of any intrusive examination - even by a licensed and insured marine surveyor.

[yamiracer]

now, my only sticking point on this boat is price. hopefully, the owner and i can find common ground w/o ranker. i just don't have a contentous interaction in me on this deal.

rw

RW:

From the above, I get the impression that you have not yet purchased this CD 28. I am more than a little curious at how you were able to get the owner to agree to allow you to remove the glued on access panels to view the backing plates for the shroud chain plates for inspection before even making an offer.

Every CD seller I have met has been very gracious and kind and very much volunteering information, work done, go for a test sail, etc. But they have all stopped short at any suggestion by me of any intrusive examination - even by a licensed and insured marine surveyor.

in my experience, most serious sellers are quite eager to demonstrate the soundness of their boats. i have never been stopped from doing non-destructive testing. note that destructive and intrusive are very different words! removing 2 inspection covers held on with soft rubber adhesive is completely non destructive. also, as far as i'm concerned, a boat inspection is necessarily 'intrusive'. how else will i know the condition of a 30 yr old boat? for example, i absolutely must be able to whack on the decks and hull to find voids and wet areas. if my little plastic mallet damages someone's decks, they were already shot! so yes, when i inspect a boat, i am very intrusive. but never destructive. i generally inspect every square inch i can get access to. sometimes it can take multiple long days. and i work with a partner! and yes, i demand the ability to remove covers to inspect critical parts. further, why do you think those covers were put there in the first place? we even go up the mast if the rig is up and the boat is safely blocked. if an owner won't let me inspect his/her boat, then i simply move on. there's no shortage of used sailboats for sale. and i do not 'need' to buy a cape dory. in this case, the owner was actually very supportive and was personally curious as to the condition of the plates. he's a real man, a 'mench'. and i will probably buy his boat. besides, there was no possible way the sale was going to happen without this inspection. if (for whatever reason) i do not buy the boat, he can show subsequent buyers that the plates are more or less ok. a classic win-win.

finally, to your (somewhat rhetorical) question about how i got the owner to agree, it was simple; i simply told him what i needed and why. i cannot imagine any owner not allowing someone to remove an inspection cover to inspect something. the concept is odd to me. i have no use for these people and they can eat their boats for all i care.

rw

[Ron M.]

Those look to be in fairly good condition. Mine were much the same. A coat of rust neutralizer and primer and a rebedding of the fittings will keep them that way. Those are indeed bonding wires. The access panels are similar to what I've observed on most CD's I had a chance to check out.
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TOYOTA PZ ENGINE HISTORY

[yamiracer]

Those look to be in fairly good condition. Mine were much the same. A coat of rust neutralizer and primer and a rebedding of the fittings will keep them that way. Those are indeed bonding wires. The access panels are similar to what I've observed on most CD's I had a chance to check out.

thanx ron. which rust nertralizer did you use?

rw

[Ron M.]

RW,
I think it was Ospho ? or something like that. There are a number of like products - XRUSTO is another. good luck.
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First-Generation Ford Mustang History

[Wayne Grenier]

I have a 1974 cd 28-hull # 13-so its one of the oldest for sure-I have reinforced the bow and stern plates with aluminum and my port and starboard plates look pretty much like the ones in the photos-mine maybe 3-4' long-extending on both sides of the chainplates and the life line stanchion etc are all through bolted-I would think if you can get the nuts off adding a wood or aluminum backing plate in addition to the steel would be more than sufficient-I am not sure grinding out and removing the steel plate would be worth the time and effort-I initaly tried to use stainless steel to reinforce the bow and stern but 1/4" ss is very difficult to cut and drill through-I KNow Cape Dory used a very unconventional method of using "padeyes" not chain plates-but it spreads the load horizontally to the hull/deck joint over a very wide area-think of the difference in load from what cape dory used to other yachts that use a "chainplate" or a tang of stainless steel about 6-8"long fastened with bolts through a bulkhead-what Cape Dory did was simple and rugged and can be easily redone to last another 40 years-

[Cathy Monaghan]

Hi RW,

Since your chainplate padeye bolts are only backed by washers, you may want to consider adding a backing plate. Just a thought....


Cathy
CD32 Realization, #3
Rahway, NJ
Raritan Bay

[Ron M.]

The mild steel 'chainplates' are a structural member and in my opinion backing plates here would be overkill. It may be a good idea however to increase the size of the washers o.d. to spread the load a bit more.
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TOYOTA MOTOR MANUFACTURING INDIANA SPECIFICATIONS