cockpit locker teak trim leaks

[Wayne Brown]

I'm sure this has been discussed before but I can't find the topic in the archives. Both of my cockpit lockers leak under the teak trim that keeps water out of the locker. I tried to take them loose but they seem to be glued on with 5200 and I can't budge them without destroying them. Any one have words of wisdom about this subject. Thanks. Wayne Brown CD-27 Whisper

[Tom in Cambria]

I hope you get an answer. I've had the same problem for years. I tried Capt. Tolley's crack cure and I can tell you that doesn't work. I've thought about damming the slot up and filling it with Git Rot, but I haven't tried that, just thought about it so far. Don't forget there is a product that dissolves hardened 5200 that's been discussed here on the board in case you want to try that. I haven't tried that either.

[Oswego John]

Wayne,

You can try Adhesive De-Bonder and Remover. It isn't cheap at $14.99, but it does the job.

http://www.nextag.com/Adhesive-De-Bonde ... rices-html

Some people say that they had good luck using GOOF OFF.

Also, 3M makes a remover that they say works on 5200 and other adhesives. I haven't used Goof Off or 3M removers myself. I just heard of others mention them.

Good luck,
O J
(No puns tonight. Adhesives are too sticky a subject to kid around with.)

[Carl Thunberg]

Wayne - These may be monumentally stupid questions, but here goes.

Stupid Question No. 1 Are you sure you removed all the screws? Sorry, but I had to ask. There may be a good reason they won't budge.

Stupid Question No. 2 What teak trim piece are you talking about? Admittedly, I don't have a CD27, but the only teak trim piece on my CD30 that even remotely comes close to what you're describing is the coamings. I'd love to see a photo, if someone has one.

[Dixon Hemphill]

I have to agree with Wayne. On my CD28 there is no teak trim near the cockpit lockers. The only teak is the coaming and the plank across the top of the stern transom.

AQ photo sure would help.

[John Vigor]

I'm sure this has been discussed before but I can't find the topic in the archives. Both of my cockpit lockers leak under the teak trim that keeps water out of the locker. I tried to take them loose but they seem to be glued on with 5200 and I can't budge them without destroying them. Any one have words of wisdom about this subject. Thanks. Wayne Brown CD-27 Whisper

Wayne, I don't think they're glued on. I investigated mine some while back, also because of leaks into the locker. I seem to remember searching a long time for the screws holding the trim in place, but I did find them. I can't recall the details now but there was something strange about it--screwed upward from the bottom, or screws covered with almost invisible bungs. Whatever it was, it made me wonder whether a bucket in the locker to catch the drips wasn't an easier solution--or, at least, mitigation--of the problem. And so, regrettably, I succumbed to an inertia that threatens to become permanent.

So take a really good look. Get your head in that locker, and I'm sure you'll eventually discover how those trim pieces are fastened on. Next time I'm down at the boat I'll have a look, too, and if you haven't had any luck I'll let you know how mine are fixed.

As for all you non-CD27 owners who think the teak trim inside the lockers is a figment of Wayne's imagination--tain't so. It's there all right, special and exclusive to CD27 owners, as is their right and privilege.

Cheers,

John V.

[barfwinkle]

It's there all right, special and exclusive to CD27 owners, as is their right and privilege.

I dont think so Mister Vigor! My (and I am sure many others) 25Ds have a teak trim under the locker hatches to keep out the water. And furthermore, I too tried to remove the one in the port locker and it is most definitely bonded with something.

ON Rhapsody there are screws going up from beneath, but the teak has a L "shaped rabbit joint" (I cant describe it here) and mine will not budge! I really need to re-finish them, but cant get them out and therefore I will just have to wait and see how long they last because I dont have the experstise to rebuild them should they break.

So much for exclusivity

[Dean Abramson]

I'm not looking at it right now, but I think that, when I open my cockpit lockers, there is a teak cap on the "lips" of the lockers; that is the part that sticks up and form the channel for water runoff. Under the lid. I am pretty sure it is there, because I remember it getting a bit gouged when I removed and replaced the hot water heater. (That was a really fun job (not), since the old heater had to be somewhat destroyed in place, even before I got it down to "just-gouging" size.)

Is that the teak part you are talking about? Actually, I think that my 25D had it too.

Dean

[Dean Abramson]

I think that Mr. Winkle answered my question while I was writing it.

(Is "thanks, Barf" the appropriate reply?)

Dean

[Bruce Barber]

I had the same problem with the port locker coaming on my 25D. My first "fix" was to remove and rebed the same teak in 3M 101 (that removal was a simple "unscrew and pry".) After a couple of years, the leaks returned, and I also I found that the starboard coaming was actually rotting at the drain cutout at the forward end. Last year I pulled them both up (this time it took Anti-Bond in addition to "unscrew and pry") and have since replaced the teak with 3-inch strips of 3/4-inch Starboard, attached in the same fashion (screwed from below, although on the starboard side there are also some screws under plugs, installed from above.) I bedded the Starboard in 5200, which the Starboard people say will provide a seal but will not act as an adhesive, since this is polyethylene and basically nothing sticks to it. However.... I now question even the sealing properties of 5200 with this stuff, since I've found evidence of further leaking. The top edges of the fillets are pulling away from the Starboard, and I've been filling those gaps as they appear.

The Starboard looks great, and sure won't rot, but of course solving the leaking was the goal, so I can't recommend it. My next "fix", if it comes to that, may be rebuilding the coamings in frp with some kind of light core, and epoxying them in place. THAT should do it (though I've said that before.)

[Bob Owens]

Wayne,
Last spring I took all the teak trim off the two cockpit lockers on my CD27, refinished and rebedded them. Here is what I found on mine: All 4 pieces on each locker are held in place by several small bolts. The heads of these are deeply inset into the top surface of the teak piece. If the holes have been well filled, it might take some close looking to find them. The nuts are, predictably, on the underside; it should be easy to feel each one where the bolt sits protrudes through the fiberglass. I did all this with screwdriver and wrench from the cockpit without having to get into the locker. Also, at each corner-join the trim pieces are held together with one or two very thin, long horizontal screws. Watch out for these as you unbolt and break loose the main pieces; it would be easy to split the teak. While I had them out, I refinished the wood with Cetol and rebedded them (and sealed the corner joins) with LifeCaulk. One year later, still no leaks. Hope this helps.
Best,
Bob

[John Vigor]

Thanks, Bob, for a very useful post. You have given me the courage to attack the problem and fix it properly.

Cheers,

John Vigor