CD 28 cutlass bearing replacement

[yamiracer]

I searched the archives, but was unsuccessful at finding info on CD 28 cutlass bearing replacement. This sounds odd, so I suspect my query was inefficient. I just entered "CD 28 cutlass bearing" in the search line. a few posts came up, but nothing to do with a CD 28. Anyway, I need to replace the cutlass bearing in a boat I'm buying before launch, and I'm trying to get a sense of what to expect.

Thanks in advance!

RW

[Dean Abramson]

Try also searching for cutlEss. With an e. I am not sure which spelling is correct, but it's probably on the board both ways.

[chase]

RW,

I replaced mine in CD30 last Nov. It was easily removed after pulling the prop. I drilled two holes on one side of the boat, about 2.5 inches apart and glassed some stainless t-nuts in there. With that, I was able to use set screws to tighten on new bearing.

I think DEan is right, just do a simple search for Cutless with an e.

Chase

[Stan W.]

My '79 has a bronze stern tube which makes this pretty straightforward once you have undone the coupling bolts, removed the shaft coupling and withdrawn the shaft (I ended up cutting the shaft which needed to be replaced anyway). First you undo two bolts and remove a retaining plate at the outside end of the stern tube. Then you make a hacksaw cut along the length of the bearing being careful not to score the inside diameter of the stern tube. Then you crush the bearing in on itself a little and yank it out. Then you drive in the new bearing, trim it to length (or you can measure and cut before you drive it in) and replace the end plate. My boat did not have any set screws. The bearing was just held in place by the tight fit inside the stern tube.

[paul marko]

my 77 cd 28 has a 1 and 1/4 inch OD cutless bearing that is held with set screws on both sides. The set screws are about 2'' from the end. I leave about 1/2 '' of the tube sticking out the back inorder to twist it out with a vise grips. I failed to leave this part sticking out once and was obliged to saw out the bearing in three peices, this cost time and money. If the tube comes out normally and I have previosly put antisize on the end of the shaft the keyes into the transmission cuppling, it takes me about two hrs to make the change and a day for the epoxy covering the set screws to dry.

Good luck ,it's really not that difficult a job!

Paul Marko

[yamiracer]

thanx for the responses. 'cutlEss' did indeed produce more results than 'cutlAss'.

Also, I found an interesting post about drilling holes to allow water to enter the bearing surface from the side (not just from the end). i know this is normal in many other situations where a shaft spins in a bearing that is lubricated w/o benefit of a pressurized lubricant flow. Any thoughts?

I'm now concerned about the shaft. Are they really that hard to remove? Also, what do you guys think the chances are of me being able to do this job in one day?

I'm going back to the boat in a couple weeks, and I'll climb in and get a sense of what I'm up against.

Thanks again.

RW

[sgbernd]

I suppose it all depends on the condition of the coupling and coupling bolts. I have a bronze shaft and steel coupling with a key which I assembled with either grease or anti sieze and covered everything in that anti-corrosion LP1 stuff. Additionally, I have a dry bilge so there isn't much leakage up the shaft.

Last time I needed to take it apart and get the shaft out took about an hr. but I had my son to help by grabbing the prop and pushing and pulling until the coupler released while I tapped it with a hammer. It would be harder to do it by yourself.

On the other hand, I've heard of the whole mess being a giant glob of rust where the coupler is corosion-welded to the shaft and the bolts are frozen, soon becoming stripped or broken, and it becomes a major job. I'd inspect it first, and if it looks like it is going to a rough one, I'd lube everything up, bolts, key, packing nut, and shaft, with penetrating oil several days in advance, then again a day in advance. Sometimes that stuff really helps. Then when you put it all back together, be sure to remember the anti seize and grease.

I really liked the idea of leaving the cutless bearing a bit too long so you can easily grab it next time to avoid spending the time to cut it. That is a good idea.

[yamiracer]

thanks for the info. good points, all.

btw, did you have to remove the rudder to get the prop off? If so, is it a big deal?

RW

I suppose it all depends on the condition of the coupling and coupling bolts. I have a bronze shaft and steel coupling with a key which I assembled with either grease or anti sieze and covered everything in that anti-corrosion LP1 stuff. Additionally, I have a dry bilge so there isn't much leakage up the shaft.

Last time I needed to take it apart and get the shaft out took about an hr. but I had my son to help by grabbing the prop and pushing and pulling until the coupler released while I tapped it with a hammer. It would be harder to do it by yourself.

On the other hand, I've heard of the whole mess being a giant glob of rust where the coupler is corosion-welded to the shaft and the bolts are frozen, soon becoming stripped or broken, and it becomes a major job. I'd inspect it first, and if it looks like it is going to a rough one, I'd lube everything up, bolts, key, packing nut, and shaft, with penetrating oil several days in advance, then again a day in advance. Sometimes that stuff really helps. Then when you put it all back together, be sure to remember the anti seize and grease.

I really liked the idea of leaving the cutless bearing a bit too long so you can easily grab it next time to avoid spending the time to cut it. That is a good idea.

[sgbernd]

I have a 2 bladed prop and it is very easy to fix the tiller all the way to one side, then rotate the prop so it is vertical and out it comes.

[Dean Abramson]

My CD31 recently had its 3-blade prop removed. The rudder did not have to be removed, just turned hard to one side. My guess is that that would also be true on a 28.

Dean

[yamiracer]

sounds like it's not the end of the world. i guess the determining factor is whether or not the prop shaft can be removed w/o drama.
we'll see.

rw

[Randy Capstick]

Hi RW,

My shaft seal was leaking more than it should all summer so last fall I decided to remove the shaft and seal for inspection. My bronze shaft was lightly scored and I have decided to replace the shaft with stainless and the seal with a PSS dripless seal (if I can get it to fit!).

I have also decided to replace the cutlass bearing and rubber engine mounts at the same time.

The most difficult parts of the job so far have been access and separating the shaft from the trans. coupling. For access I cut a large hole in my cockpit floor; large enough to sit in while working on the shaft and also giving me access to the rear of the engine for general maintenance.

Separating the shaft from the trans coupling was a bear of a job that was finally accomplished with a combination of automotive pullers. There just wasn't enough space between the separated coupler and the Trans. to get a proper puller in place. If I was doing this job again I would order this tool:

http://www.deepblueyachtsupply.com/series.aspx?id=169

It would have made the job so much easier.

I haven't removed my cutlass bearing as yet but my 1982 CD28 is set up as Stan W. described above and I don't expect much difficulty.

Once you have the shaft and coupling separated, I just held the rudder to one side and pulled my prop (2 Blade) and shaft out the back of the boat.

Good Luck,

Randy

[The Patriot]

... I have decided to replace the shaft with stainless and the seal with a PSS dripless seal (if I can get it to fit!) ...

It will fit well, but there is always the question of whether the particular glass work at the turn of the bilge on your own boat allows enough room for the bellows on the PSS to perform as designed. I fitted a PSS to my CD 28 when the engine was replaced in 1993. Since that time there have been essentially no issues with this part, and in addition there is no adjustment required as is the case with the traditional packing gland.