Looking to re-power my CD30. I searched the board under repower/re-power and found some helpful info. Just wanted to ask a few specific questions and would appreciate your ideas.
I like the Standard Beta 16. Anyone have experience with this one? How does it fit and mount?
Thoughts on the 16 vs. 20? (16 has 2 cylinders and the 20 has 3.)
The v drive seems to be sound but is around 26 years old. Is it smart to go ahead and replace now?
Thanks so much!
________
HONDA CB1100F
Re-power questions
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Will Angus
- Posts: 22
- Joined: Sep 30th, '05, 15:18
- Location: CD30 #252 Deltaville, VA
Re-power questions
Last edited by Will Angus on Feb 13th, '11, 09:35, edited 1 time in total.
Repower
I am in a similar situation and here is my logic.
Run the old engine until you get to a repair estimate that is going a) cost >35% the cost of a new engine or b) can't realistically be made, (like corrosion penetraing the case, parts unavailable, etc.). Then you know you are done and start over. Otherwise, keep it running. It may outlast you.
The exception is if reliability is suffering to the point where safety is compromised, in which case you may say it is time sooner than later. An example might be the case of an engine which has trouble starting reliably, overheats if operated under heavy load, or suffers some other issue and you think the problem is internal to the engine rather than the peripherals and you are unsuccesful with repair. I consider the engine a valuable piece of safety equipment and it must start first time, every time, and run reliably once started.
My 23 yr old raw water cooled (fresh water rinsed) Volvo MD7B still perfroms and thus far, repairs have been manageable. Maybe it will go a few more years...
If not, I have the Beta 722 chosen and adaptor plates for the mounts already sketched out.
Run the old engine until you get to a repair estimate that is going a) cost >35% the cost of a new engine or b) can't realistically be made, (like corrosion penetraing the case, parts unavailable, etc.). Then you know you are done and start over. Otherwise, keep it running. It may outlast you.
The exception is if reliability is suffering to the point where safety is compromised, in which case you may say it is time sooner than later. An example might be the case of an engine which has trouble starting reliably, overheats if operated under heavy load, or suffers some other issue and you think the problem is internal to the engine rather than the peripherals and you are unsuccesful with repair. I consider the engine a valuable piece of safety equipment and it must start first time, every time, and run reliably once started.
My 23 yr old raw water cooled (fresh water rinsed) Volvo MD7B still perfroms and thus far, repairs have been manageable. Maybe it will go a few more years...
If not, I have the Beta 722 chosen and adaptor plates for the mounts already sketched out.
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Ben Thomas
- Posts: 215
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 12:17
- Location: 82 CD30 Milagro Hull #248
Beta
Will, I have the BD722 (20hp) in my CD30 hull#248. with v-drive.
Drop me an email and I can send you lots of info. ,jpegs and pricing on engines. And info. regarding the install.
I have made up new stringers for the 16 & 20 hp.w/ v-drive. so Engine can drop right in. stringers made for replacement of Volvo MD7A. The Betas will sit 3" further forward and about 2" higher. The new stringers allow for this new position. Longer prop shaft is necessary.
I am also the Beta dealer here in Oregon. Discounts for board members.
Ben
Drop me an email and I can send you lots of info. ,jpegs and pricing on engines. And info. regarding the install.
I have made up new stringers for the 16 & 20 hp.w/ v-drive. so Engine can drop right in. stringers made for replacement of Volvo MD7A. The Betas will sit 3" further forward and about 2" higher. The new stringers allow for this new position. Longer prop shaft is necessary.
I am also the Beta dealer here in Oregon. Discounts for board members.
Ben