Galley sink feucet issues

[Russell]

The galley sink faucet on my CD36 was leaking badly around the swivel base, it made a real mess sometimes having to mop up water around the sink whenever I used it. So I took it apart and the o-rings were obviously in need of replacing, but getting the exact right ones down here is not possible (even back home I imagine finding the right ones would be hard), they are sort of flatish rather then rounded. So I made do with what I could get, which is the typical rounded o-ring. It worked, the leaks stopped, but I think they are slightly too thick because now the faucet is extreamly difficult to move (I am worried about breaking something!). The only thing I can think to do is lubricate it, but this is where drinking water comes out of, so I am concerned about using lube on it. Is there a standard lube that plumbers use on drinking water taps that is safe? I was thinking vasaline, but I beleive that damages the rubber.

Any suggestions?

[Jim Davis]

But consider a land based hardware store. Any normal household faucet that fits the hole pattern works. Also cheaper and more durable. If you were in the states I would recommend Home Despot as a source.

[Russell]

But consider a land based hardware store. Any normal household faucet that fits the hole pattern works. Also cheaper and more durable. If you were in the states I would recommend Home Despot as a source.

I am not hoping to replace the faucet! I am just hoping to find if there is a lube that is safe to use on drinking water faucets.

[Judith]

When our galley faucet was temporarily balky, we lubed it with olive oil. That might be a quick fix until you find something else. . .or the faucet loosens up.

Why "temporarily"? Don't have a clue: the sticking started by itself, then stopped on its own--perhaps because it was new?

Judith

[Oswego John]

Russell,

Yes, petroleum oil and byproducts made from it are bad for things made out of rubber. Fortunately for us, many things such as plumbing washers and O rings are now made out of neoprene and other man made materials which aren't affected by contact with oil. That's apples.

As far as toxicity, I don't know. That's oranges. Maybe someone else can set us straight on that.

Best regards,
O J

[Jim Sullivan]

Hi Russell:

You mention that the o-rings that you removed were "sort of flatish rather then rounded". The fact that they were flat on one side is just the result of normal wear and indicates that replacement was in order. A "typical rounded o-ring" is the proper replacement. Because "the faucet is extremely difficult to move" suggests that you likely installed o-rings that were too thick. It is my understanding that most plumbers generally do not use a lube (drinking water safe) for such replacements/repairs as it is usually not necessary. I would suggest bringing the original o-rings (assuming you still have them) to a plumbing supply company which can then give you something perhaps closer to the originals in size. Generally, in a faucet assembly, water in contact with the o-rings allows it to swivel/move freely. You might try rubbing the o-rings first with your fingers for a few minutes--oils in the skin will provide some lubrication. A very small amount of vegetable oil or U.S.P. mineral oil rubbed on the o-rings and then the excess wiped off may help initially to lubricate the o-rings, however, in the long term it will be the water in contact with the o-rings that allows the faucet assembly to move freely.

Hope this helps,

Jim

[Bill Cochrane]

To add to Jim's comment, the new rings may be too thick, or they may (also) be under too much pressure. Hand tightening or at the most a further 1/4 turn with a wrench should suffice, if the rings are new and the bearing surfaces clean and unscratched.

I'd also suggest an extremely thin, light coating of silicone grease. You can get it in hardware stores or dive shops...it's used on o-rings in scuba valves and regulators. Put a very small bit of it on your finger, rub the o-ring with it, wipe off your finger on a towel (lint-free) and then rub the ring with your fingers again...you only want to leave a very thin coat.

[Jim Davis]

Russell

I know you are trying to avoid replacement. My comment on using standard kitchen, or bath room faucets was as much directed to others on the board. For half the price a better faucet can be obtained than the chrome plated plastic ones sold specifically for boats at West/Defender/etc. On Isa Lei we have chrome plated bronze by American Standard and parts are only as far as the nearest hardware store.

The very thin film of silicone grease is a reasonable approach, but may need periodic redoing.

[Russell]

The old o-rings I beleive were flat by design, not just from wear, their shape was basicly squared, so not just flat on a single side, for even flat sides, I cant imagine its possible to wear this way.

I will try the silicone grease, I actually did find somee plumbing websites that suggested this.

Yes I do agree the problem is they are too thick, which is what I am stuck with, you dont exactly have a store with a wide selection of o-rings, your lucky to get the right size, much less thickness.

[Oswego John]

Russell,

If you'd like, send me a PM stating the OD, ID and approx. thickness of the O ring in question. I would be happy to see if I could procure the correct size and mail it (them) to you.

You would have to include an address where it is to be sent.

Best regards,
O J

[Jim Sullivan]

Russell:

Your initial post states ..."the o-rings were obviously in need of replacing". Key word here is o-rings.

Your last posting on this subjects states "The old o-rings I believe were flat by design, not just from wear, their shape was basicly squared, so not just flat on a single side, for even flat sides, I cant imagine its possible to wear this way".

It sounds like you are talking about a gasket or unique packing washer and not an o-ring. If it was in fact an o-ring, it would not be "flat on all sides". Trying to replace what you have with a conventional o-ring will in all likelihood not work simply because you do not appear to have o-rings. If you are not able to locate replacement parts from the faucet manufacturer, you may be better off to replace the whole faucet like Jim Davis has suggested. A replacement faucet is really not very expensive if you plan to keep the boat.

Jim

[Joe Peladeau]

Hi Russell,

I fear I may be entering this discussion a little late. Is the kitchen faucet you have the single lever 'Delta'? If so check out hammerzone.com under Plumbing Projects and Repairs. There is a photo repair guide for the Peerless or Delta single lever kitchen faucet that covers both the ball mechanism as well as the base 'O' rings.

Hope this helps.


Regards,
Joe

[Russell]

Hi Joe, thanks for the great tip, that is indeed the exact same faucet I have as they show there on hammerzone. Though since I have already taken it apart completely it was much new info for me, but at least confirms for me that silicon grease is okay to use, which is the solution I was looking for and ultimately worked.

[chase]

Thanks Joe for the site, looks good at first glance. I guess I need to work on the house once and a while.

Chase

[winthrop fisher]

hi,

the last bar faucet i had,

had o ring and i could not find the right size o ring, so i had too buy a new faucet.

just saying that some brands don't make o rings at all any more and you may have to buy a new one.

winthrop