CD 25D Hull Deformity
Moderator: Jim Walsh
CD 25D Hull Deformity
Hello Everyone,
I'm new to the Forum but I've been lurking here for some time while searching for a Cape Dory to buy. I've located a 25D that has possibilities but I've come across what might be a major problem.
There is an area about 20 inches in diameter below the waterline that is deformed. It's on the starboard side below the two aft port holes and about halfway between the waterline and the keel. It's pushed inward about 5/8ths inch at the center. I can't get a look at it from the inside because of the liner.
I suspect that there has been some major hull repair done but I'm wondering if anyone else has had any experience with a situation like this. Is there any information published defining the hull lay up and stiffening in this area?
Any information or advice will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Jim Wegman
I'm new to the Forum but I've been lurking here for some time while searching for a Cape Dory to buy. I've located a 25D that has possibilities but I've come across what might be a major problem.
There is an area about 20 inches in diameter below the waterline that is deformed. It's on the starboard side below the two aft port holes and about halfway between the waterline and the keel. It's pushed inward about 5/8ths inch at the center. I can't get a look at it from the inside because of the liner.
I suspect that there has been some major hull repair done but I'm wondering if anyone else has had any experience with a situation like this. Is there any information published defining the hull lay up and stiffening in this area?
Any information or advice will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Jim Wegman
Stand Divot?
Sometimes a dent from a stand will come out on its own, if it wasn't too severe. My boat got a temporary divot one year, as the keel blocks settled into soft dirt. It was right at the cockpit locker so I could see both sides clearly; no cracks or damage at all. I just backed the stands off, and it came out on its own, slowly over a few days.
Of course, the boat you're looking at might have something completely different.
Best,
John Ring
CD28 Tantalus
Of course, the boat you're looking at might have something completely different.
Best,
John Ring
CD28 Tantalus
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- Posts: 244
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- Location: "AIKANE", CD30
Pensacola, Fl.
Jim,
I would not reject the boat solely on account of the problem you describe, however I would determine what caused it, for sure it was not built that way. You, or preferably your surveyor, should "sound" the entire boat, hull and deck, with a soft plastic, (not rubber or dead blow) hammer. Good fiberglass that is not delaminated or does not have a disintegrating core will cause a slight bounce in the hammer and sound rather sharp. Tap along the hull, and if there is no change when you come to the suspect area probably all is well. If the return goes flat you probably have some delamination that will need attention. I would suggest reading any of several books by Don Casey on the subject of fiberglass repair, they will tell you all that you need to know about dealing with fiberglass. Good luck.
Steve Kuhar
I would not reject the boat solely on account of the problem you describe, however I would determine what caused it, for sure it was not built that way. You, or preferably your surveyor, should "sound" the entire boat, hull and deck, with a soft plastic, (not rubber or dead blow) hammer. Good fiberglass that is not delaminated or does not have a disintegrating core will cause a slight bounce in the hammer and sound rather sharp. Tap along the hull, and if there is no change when you come to the suspect area probably all is well. If the return goes flat you probably have some delamination that will need attention. I would suggest reading any of several books by Don Casey on the subject of fiberglass repair, they will tell you all that you need to know about dealing with fiberglass. Good luck.
Steve Kuhar
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- Joined: Feb 8th, '05, 11:12
- Location: 27' Cape Dory (Alerion),
9' Dyer,
Grosse Pointe, Michigan
my experience with a CD26
When I bought a CD26 back in 1992 there were six 1/2" dents in the hull where the boat had sagged on it's improperly supported cradle. I used the dents as a bargaining chip and the seller lowered the price...but guess what? After purchasing the boat and making sure it was properly supported in the ensuing years when on the hard, the dents straightened themselves out on their own!!
I would suggest you carefully inspect the suspect hull for other dents that might not be so obvious and make sure there's no damage where the bulkheads are bonded to the hull. Fiberglass hulls are fairly resilient but not in the areas of bulkheads. In my case, the CD factory cradle was wisely built in the sense that none of the poppets contacted the hull in areas that had a bulkhead directly behind them.
I would suggest you carefully inspect the suspect hull for other dents that might not be so obvious and make sure there's no damage where the bulkheads are bonded to the hull. Fiberglass hulls are fairly resilient but not in the areas of bulkheads. In my case, the CD factory cradle was wisely built in the sense that none of the poppets contacted the hull in areas that had a bulkhead directly behind them.
- David van den Burgh
- Posts: 597
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- Location: Ariel CD36, 1979 - Lake Michigan
- Contact:
Re: my experience with a CD26
I'm confused as to why supports should not be placed on a bulkhead. Aren't many bulkheads structural and designed to add support and stability to the hull? Aren't they expected to bear rigging loads as well as loads imposed by a heavy sea? And isn't the weight of the boat supposed to be resting on the keel, the poppets merely keeping things balanced?Kurt wrote:In my case, the CD factory cradle was wisely built in the sense that none of the poppets contacted the hull in areas that had a bulkhead directly behind them.
If all that's true, then I don't understand why it's unwise to place a poppet on an area designed for handling loads.
To address your question, Jim, if you're serious about the boat, your surveyor should be able to give you a more accurate and informed assessment.
PS - Here's a link to an article by Don Casey regarding winter storage: Winter Storage Tips
CD 25D Hull Deformity
Thanks a lot for the help. Consensus around here too is that it's a dimple from a hard stand. It's been there for several years now though so it's not going to resolve itself. We're thinking of cutting through the liner and getting a good look at inside, then make a decision from there.
Jim
Jim
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- Location: '66 Typhoon "Grace", Hull # 42, Schooner "Ontario", CD 85D Hull #1
A Last Resort
Jim,
Before you begin to enter the drastic phase of repair, maybe try this.
Borrow, beg, steal or rent one of those powerful, double, suction cup tools that glaziers use to handle heavy pieces of glass.
There is a possibility that the ding might pop out to normal with some urging. Something akin to the oil can reaction.
It's best to polish that area of the bottom smooth to insure better vacuum grip.
Good luck,
O J
Before you begin to enter the drastic phase of repair, maybe try this.
Borrow, beg, steal or rent one of those powerful, double, suction cup tools that glaziers use to handle heavy pieces of glass.
There is a possibility that the ding might pop out to normal with some urging. Something akin to the oil can reaction.
It's best to polish that area of the bottom smooth to insure better vacuum grip.
Good luck,
O J
CD 25D Hull Deformity
Thanks OJ. That's a good idea. I'll give that a try.
Jim
Jim
That's exactly where they go
Around here and for as long as I have been boating jack stands are placed directly in line with bulkheads to avoid deforming and stressing the hull. The same is done with a travel lift when launching......straps are located in the area of the bulkheads. It is not uncommon for keel blocks to settle some on ground , one should keep an eye on the hull in areas where there is not a bulkhead. Jacks should not bear much weight. They are for balance mostly.
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TOYOTA MOTOR MANUFACTURING KENTUCKY SPECIFICATIONS
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TOYOTA MOTOR MANUFACTURING KENTUCKY SPECIFICATIONS