stepping mast on CD 25

[uncwillie]

does anyone have intimate knowledge of stepping the mast on a Cape Dory 25, or have any comments about it. I'm ready.

[Doug Fallin]

I've stepped mine a few times. The mast isn't heavy and a couple of people can guide it down fine. Take your time. Keep it on center and tied off on either side. If the boat is in the water, people moving around is the worst. The boat will heal and the mast will sway. Keep everyone on center and minimize movement. Some people use an A frame or other contraption. I use the boom, toping lift and main sheet. The mess occurs when the standing rigging goes slack. But don't worry about that until you have secured the mast. Make sure the mast tabernacle (hinge at the base) is sturdy. The first time I lowered mine, It had the old cast base and it cracked. The foot of the mast came loose and caused a moment or two of chaos. If your hinge is good, just keep her straight and it should go fine. If it's your first time, things looks scarier than they are. But this is good, when you are scared, you are cautious.

[Lew Gresham]

Take a look at these videos, they might help. Neither boat is a Cape Dory.

Good Luck!




http://www.capedory.org/board/viewtopic ... highlight=

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EKjUi2h0mX8

[Will Wheatley]

I am one of those people who have built an A frame although "built" is a glorification of simply using a three inch wood screw to join two 2 by 4s together in a lopsided X (like an A with a small v on top).

Besides the 2 pieces of wood and the screw I used an anchor rode and a block to run the rode through, a small length of rope to secure the block to the foredeck cleat and two old towels.

When screwing the X together lay them on the fore deck the feet of the x will simply sit against the brackets in the desk for the foreward shrouds. The cross point should be directly over the foredeck cleat ( this is so that there is a pretty straight line of rope pulling from the cleat to the top of the mast, this will cause there to be less horizontal force on the feet of the X when lines are taught).

Wrap the end of the rode with the eye in it around the cross point several times so there will not be slippage and so that the eye end is just sticking out on the top side of the X. The other end goes through the block that has been secured to the foredeck cleat and then run to a winch. The Jib halyard connects to the eye of the rode at the cross point of the x and the towels are for the feet of the X so that you don't scratch the deck.

Make sure there is about a 90 degree angle between the X and the mast. This is true wether raising or lowering.

I have done this by myself both up and down several times, although not while in the water. The X makes things very stable but if you are doing this in the water you will still want one or two helpers to prevent sideways movement.

The most important thing to remember when raising the mast is that the turnbuckles at the base of the shrouds and stays can get twisted and damaged as the mast goes up if they are not straight when they get tight. I have taped them in a masking tape cocoon to prevent damage but a helper can also check and straighten them as the mast goes up. You can also tie off while doing this if you need to check them, I use the stern cleats instead of the ones on the coaming board.

Good Luck and Happy Sailoring~~~~/)~~~~

[tartansailor]

Can be found in Bruce Bingham's "The Sailor's Sketchbook" published by Seven Seas Press, 1883. I got a copy for $4.00
from Alibris. The first time was solo and a nail biter, but subsequently became routine, Always ashore though.
Hope this helps.
Dick

[barfwinkle]

Hello Dick

I have a copy of the book on the boat. Thank you.

I found the link below in my favorites. I don't know who's boat it is, but it has some good pics of lowering the mast on a 25. Is your rig similar to this one?

http://www.geocities.com/travel-rn/1_Un ... eMast.html

Fair winds

[tartansailor]

Hello Bill,
First, let me compliment your sailing web page; it is one very enjoyable read.
No, my rig is exactly as described in Bingham's book, but I think that chain, and attachment points shown in your reference would provide for improved rigidity.

Dick

[barfwinkle]

I would be concerned about what the chain would do to the deck, but I like the idea of using turnbuckles for adjusting the "lines" to proper length and tension.

Fair Winds