Hello everyone,
I am a new owner of an '83 CD28 and this is my first post to this forum. I really love the boat and it has exceeded my expectations in many ways. The boat is in generally good condition, but there are, or course, a few projects. One of which involves wires that have been run through the cabin top. The survey found elevated moisture on one side of the mast in the cabin top. I'm pretty certain the moisture has gotten in via the wires for the masthead light, deck light, and VHF antenna, which exit the mast at the base and pass through the cabin top. Whoever installed the deck light and antenna apparently just drilled holes through the cabin top, ran the wires through, and squirted some silicon sealant around the entry point for the wires. My question is what is the proper way to run wiring through the deck?
Running wires through deck
Moderator: Jim Walsh
Here is my method:
Drill the hole to the nessisary size.
If there is core material in the area, then using a drill, I put a nail with its tip bent to 90 degrees in, then use that to dig the core out around the drilled hole.
Once the core is dug out a bit around the hole, I tape up the hole from the inside very well, then fill the hole from the top with epoxy. I dont use a lot of filler in the epoxy to ensure its pretty liquid and will spread through the hole well, but I also dont allow it to be so liquid that if it gets past the masking tape on the bottom that it would make a mess. (note, if its a large hole you may want to do your epoxy filling in stages, since a large mass of epoxy can just burn things around it).
After the epoxy is cured, I use the origonal sized drill bit to redrill the hole. Now you have a hole through your deck where the core material is entirely isolated just in case whatever bedding compound you use fails at some point, the core will stay dry.
Once you have your new hole, there are a variety of thru deck fittings you can use. I tend to use the "cable clams" made by Blue Sea. But generally in areas where one is not going to frequently need to undo the connect. For a mast connection for a deck stepped mast that may be unstepped each season, you may prefer a plug style connection here (but expect to replace it frequently due to corrotion if you sail in salt water).
Needless to say, before doing the above, you would be best served to repair any core rot before hand, or if its not entirely rotted at least allow it to dry out before sealing it all up properly.
Drill the hole to the nessisary size.
If there is core material in the area, then using a drill, I put a nail with its tip bent to 90 degrees in, then use that to dig the core out around the drilled hole.
Once the core is dug out a bit around the hole, I tape up the hole from the inside very well, then fill the hole from the top with epoxy. I dont use a lot of filler in the epoxy to ensure its pretty liquid and will spread through the hole well, but I also dont allow it to be so liquid that if it gets past the masking tape on the bottom that it would make a mess. (note, if its a large hole you may want to do your epoxy filling in stages, since a large mass of epoxy can just burn things around it).
After the epoxy is cured, I use the origonal sized drill bit to redrill the hole. Now you have a hole through your deck where the core material is entirely isolated just in case whatever bedding compound you use fails at some point, the core will stay dry.
Once you have your new hole, there are a variety of thru deck fittings you can use. I tend to use the "cable clams" made by Blue Sea. But generally in areas where one is not going to frequently need to undo the connect. For a mast connection for a deck stepped mast that may be unstepped each season, you may prefer a plug style connection here (but expect to replace it frequently due to corrotion if you sail in salt water).
Needless to say, before doing the above, you would be best served to repair any core rot before hand, or if its not entirely rotted at least allow it to dry out before sealing it all up properly.
Russell
s/v (yet to be named) Tayana 42CC
s/v Lady Pauline Cape Dory 36 #117 (for sale)
s/v (yet to be named) Tayana 42CC
s/v Lady Pauline Cape Dory 36 #117 (for sale)
h20......not good
RDH3-If you have moisture in there you need to dry it out. A good way to accomplish this is to ........1. cover the boat, starting close to the hole drill a series 3/16th inch holes that penetrate the balsa core but not the interior skin (core is 3/8" thick). In a 1/2" grid pattern continue till you find dry core deposits from your drill bit. Let it dry.......may take a while. Heat and air circulation will help. When dry bevel each hole a bit with a countersink. Wet out each hole with epoxy then fill with thickened epoxy somewhat proud of the surface, sand flush when dry. Casey's book explains this well. I have done this many times with good results.
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Michael ellis (designer)
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Michael ellis (designer)
Last edited by Ron M. on Feb 11th, '11, 05:42, edited 1 time in total.
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Anthony P. Jeske
- Posts: 146
- Joined: Feb 11th, '05, 10:33
- Location: C&C 27 MkV
FLYING CIRCUS
Caution
Hi:
The CD-28 has a deck stepped mast. The loads from the mast are transferred to the four bulkheads that make up the head compartment via a steel plate embedded into the cabin top.
The "normal" solutions for repairing delamination, as outlined by Russel and Ron Musk, will need to be modified when you're working in this area. I'm not sure if there's any balsa core at all in that area. If there is moisture between the steel plate and the outer fiberglass, it certainly would be in order to try to eliminate it and prevent any new moisture from entering.
Do you know the size of the wet area? Did the surveyor outline it? If not, you should have that done, then proceed with the repairs outlined by Russ and Ron, keeping in mind that the bent nail part of the prep won't work.
Good Luck,
Tony Jeske
CD-28 #365
NO REGRETS
San Diego
The CD-28 has a deck stepped mast. The loads from the mast are transferred to the four bulkheads that make up the head compartment via a steel plate embedded into the cabin top.
The "normal" solutions for repairing delamination, as outlined by Russel and Ron Musk, will need to be modified when you're working in this area. I'm not sure if there's any balsa core at all in that area. If there is moisture between the steel plate and the outer fiberglass, it certainly would be in order to try to eliminate it and prevent any new moisture from entering.
Do you know the size of the wet area? Did the surveyor outline it? If not, you should have that done, then proceed with the repairs outlined by Russ and Ron, keeping in mind that the bent nail part of the prep won't work.
Good Luck,
Tony Jeske
CD-28 #365
NO REGRETS
San Diego
DON'T!!
Don't go through the deck at all - no need to.
Just run the wires direct from the mast into the teak dorade box, then down the vent (pvc pipe) that's already inside the box that goes through the cabin top . The wires will come out above the liner over the head, and you can access them from the vent screen there from inside.
John Ring
CD28 Tantalus
Just run the wires direct from the mast into the teak dorade box, then down the vent (pvc pipe) that's already inside the box that goes through the cabin top . The wires will come out above the liner over the head, and you can access them from the vent screen there from inside.
John Ring
CD28 Tantalus
Sand & Paint?
<img width="500" src="http://www.yachttantalus.com/Tantalus%2 ... 20File.jpg">
I think sand & paint is all we can do. It came out ok on my CD28 when I drilled & dried my wet core. Doing it again, I think I would just cut the whole section out, lay in new balsa, and glass a new top on. Fairing and painting is easy enough.
More here: http://www.yachttantalus.com/WetCore.htm
Best,
John Ring
CD28 Tantalus
I think sand & paint is all we can do. It came out ok on my CD28 when I drilled & dried my wet core. Doing it again, I think I would just cut the whole section out, lay in new balsa, and glass a new top on. Fairing and painting is easy enough.
More here: http://www.yachttantalus.com/WetCore.htm
Best,
John Ring
CD28 Tantalus
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Keith Newlin
- Posts: 14
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 22:46
- Location: CD28, #185 Sequel, Wilmington, NC
I faced a similar dilemma in what to do with the wires when I rewired my mast on my CD28. After scouting a number of options on other boats--some quite clunky, such routing the wires through conduit from base of mast to deck--I simply drilled a hole through the mast step plate, then through the steel plate (it's about 1/4 inch thick), and then through the inner deck. You should have a wooden cover directly below the mast plate covering an access hole in the liner. I epoxied a short length of PVC pipe in the hole to seal off the innards of the core/plate; it protrudes about an inch above the bottom of the mast step plate--the pvc thus prevents any water on the inside of the mast from going down the hole (it drains out a hole in the mast step). I dremmeled a slot in the overhead liner to run the wires to the wall of the head compartment, and then down the side of the doorjamb to the floor, and then under the floor to the circuit breaker. Once the mast is up and the wires snaked down the pvc pipe, it's important to stuff the pipe with silicone to prevent any water from migrating along the wires and into the cabin, as I found out the first time we had a prolonged rain. Anyway, this worked for me and the wires are completely out of sight.
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barfwinkle
- Posts: 2169
- Joined: Feb 6th, '05, 10:34
- Location: S/V Rhapsody CD25D
Good MorningWhoever installed the deck light and antenna apparently just drilled holes through the cabin top, ran the wires through, and squirted some silicon sealant around the entry point for the wires.
This is the way my 25D was done and it came that way from the factory! Also on the 25D, snaking the wires through the mast step was not an option as there is a compression post under the step. So I used the pvc & conduit method.
[img]http://www.rhapsodysails.com/graphics/wire.jpg[/img]
The hole in the mast (as seen in the pic) is where the wires exited and the deck end of the pvc/conduit is where the original whole was. This setup works well and I agree that it would be better if the wires were completely hidden, but !
Fair winds
Bill Member #250.