Cleaner/stripper for varnished teak sole

[Bonnie Gilmore]

Unfortunately, the teak and holly sole of our recently aquired 20 year old boat has not been well maintained. The gouges and scratches give it some personality, but the gummy dirt and street shoe scuffs have gotta go. While refinishing it is the only cure-all, I'd like to take an intermediate step with a thorough cleaning. Murphys oil soap just foams and adds to the gum, so I need something stronger. I'm hesitant to use an off-the-shelf cleaner without a personal recommendation. What thoughts/experience have you?

Bonnie Gilmore
Southern Cross
Berkeley, CA



bgilmore@ci.santa-rosa.ca.us

[Bob Ohler]

Try this formula....
1 part lemon oil,
1 part RAW linseed oil,
1 part mineral spirits.

If done in 2 ounce parts, you could alter the cocktail slightly by using 3 oz. lemon oil, 1 oz. linseed oil, 2 mineral spirits.

Apply with a 3M green refinishing pad,scrub with the grain, and wipe the dirt away with a clean rag.

Besure to use RAW linseed oil, not boiled. It makes a difference.
I use this concoction about three times a year on the Aloha Spirit's sole, and the results are wonderful. I tend to use the formula with more lemon oil for the interior teak... other than the sole.



bobohler@chesapeake.net

[John]

Try a mixture of TSP (tri-sodium phosphate) available at any hardware store or home center, most boat stores. Otherwise try a solvent such as denatured alcohol or other "cleaning" solvent.

If you are going to try and strip the existing varnished surface back to bare wood use a heat gun and a scraper or two. Be careful with the heatgun or you may scorch the wood if you let it overheat in one spot too long. It's cleaner, neater and faster than chemical strippers and is far cleaner and faster than sanding the finish off. You should wear a respirator (not a dust mask) if working in a closed in cabin area.

Unfortunately, the teak and holly sole of our recently aquired 20 year old boat has not been well maintained. The gouges and scratches give it some personality, but the gummy dirt and street shoe scuffs have gotta go. While refinishing it is the only cure-all, I'd like to take an intermediate step with a thorough cleaning. Murphys oil soap just foams and adds to the gum, so I need something stronger. I'm hesitant to use an off-the-shelf cleaner without a personal recommendation. What thoughts/experience have you?

Bonnie Gilmore
Southern Cross
Berkeley, CA

[John]

Try a mixture of TSP (tri-sodium phosphate) available at any hardware store or home center, most boat stores. Otherwise try a solvent such as denatured alcohol or other "cleaning" solvent.

If you are going to try and strip the existing varnished surface back to bare wood use a heat gun and a scraper or two. Be careful with the heatgun or you may scorch the wood if you let it overheat in one spot too long. It's cleaner, neater and faster than chemical strippers and is far cleaner and faster than sanding the finish off. You should wear a respirator (not a dust mask) if working in a closed in cabin area.

Unfortunately, the teak and holly sole of our recently aquired 20 year old boat has not been well maintained. The gouges and scratches give it some personality, but the gummy dirt and street shoe scuffs have gotta go. While refinishing it is the only cure-all, I'd like to take an intermediate step with a thorough cleaning. Murphys oil soap just foams and adds to the gum, so I need something stronger. I'm hesitant to use an off-the-shelf cleaner without a personal recommendation. What thoughts/experience have you?

Bonnie Gilmore
Southern Cross
Berkeley, CA

[Boyd Bundy]

I have used a mixture of TSP with bleach and a small quantity of hand diswashing soap to clean wood both varnished and otherwise for years. I is great for removing almost everything. I mix it with varing strengths of TSP and bleach depending upon the type of dirt. More bleach if mold is involved. Enough TSP and this stuff will almost take paint off. Use a SPONGE not a brush. A brush will remove the soft grain from the wood and leave a rough finish. This is also good for cleaning out nasty lockers and even gelcoat surfaces. Be careful about how strong you mix it. Rinse with plain water.



wbta@pstcomputers.com