Just bought Typhoon Hull No. 33, and notice that the original waterline has been painted over (and up). Plan to replace the original, but wonder if anyone has found the original lines to be low.
Also, have a rudder with the fiberglass shell separating back from the post at the top of the rudder. Has anyone else had this problem?
Thanks.
Carl Ulrich
carlulrich@aol.com
Typhoon Waterline and Rudder
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Dana Arenius
Re: Typhoon Waterline and Rudder
Carl,
Most of the Cape Dory waterlines are too low, CD22s and other models. They tend to squat in the aft section but at the bow it is ok. Hence many folks see a lot of fouling along the aft sections of the waterline and not so bad up forward.
It is because of the work of realigning the existing boot top to a new tiltered position that most people have just painted up with their anti-foulant over most of the boot top.
Seeing this problem on my CD26, I successfully "raised" and "realigned" my waterline to its true functional position. I did this while the boat was out of the water but markings can be made now while most boats are still floating.
I did not have a lot of specialized tools, only a small carpenters square. If you decide you want to do this, let me know and I will post a procedure.
On your rudder separation, I have not seen this before. It sounds like this rudder is not "structurally" withstanding the loads placed on it. The repair aside, does this boat has an excessive weather helm?
Dana
darenius@aol.com
Most of the Cape Dory waterlines are too low, CD22s and other models. They tend to squat in the aft section but at the bow it is ok. Hence many folks see a lot of fouling along the aft sections of the waterline and not so bad up forward.
It is because of the work of realigning the existing boot top to a new tiltered position that most people have just painted up with their anti-foulant over most of the boot top.
Seeing this problem on my CD26, I successfully "raised" and "realigned" my waterline to its true functional position. I did this while the boat was out of the water but markings can be made now while most boats are still floating.
I did not have a lot of specialized tools, only a small carpenters square. If you decide you want to do this, let me know and I will post a procedure.
On your rudder separation, I have not seen this before. It sounds like this rudder is not "structurally" withstanding the loads placed on it. The repair aside, does this boat has an excessive weather helm?
Dana
darenius@aol.com
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Carl Ulrich
Re: Typhoon Waterline and Rudder
Dana,
Thanks for the information. We are able to scribe a new water line, which was about three inches higher all around. We went back to the original waterline, which since had been painted over, but was still definable. You are right, the new water line squats in the stern, but still is out of the water there. We also had good luck with Interlux single part polyurethane on repainting the topsides with roller and brush. The bottom, on this old a boat, was immaculate, once scraped and sanded down.
Thanks for your help.
Carl Ulrich
carlulrich@aol.com
Thanks for the information. We are able to scribe a new water line, which was about three inches higher all around. We went back to the original waterline, which since had been painted over, but was still definable. You are right, the new water line squats in the stern, but still is out of the water there. We also had good luck with Interlux single part polyurethane on repainting the topsides with roller and brush. The bottom, on this old a boat, was immaculate, once scraped and sanded down.
Thanks for your help.
Carl Ulrich
Dana Arenius wrote:
carlulrich@aol.com