Fenix to OZ

[fenixrises]

Hi all,

A quick note to let you all know I am in Darwin.

Since my last report I have had quite a journey. It was mostly pleasant with a couple of long sails (36-40 hours) without sleep.
Often I was able to make day sails of about 40 miles then anchor for the night. This is the preferred method of travel in this area for a single hander, although many crewed boats do the same. There a many good places to anchor and interesting things to see.

The Queensland coast north of Cairns is sparesly populated. Cooktown is the last town of any size going north. I spent a couple of very pleasant days in this historic place. Cooktown is holding on to life by exployting Capt. Cook's stop here many years ago.

I left Cooktown in a near gale. Fenix was flying NW with just the staysail, often exceeding 6 knots. Unfortunately this started the begining of overcast skys, blustery wind and occasional light to medium rains. These conditions lasted for days on end, very depressing.

When possible I continued my day sails until reaching Cape Grenville. The next leg was about 70 miles with no place to anchor between. Since I could not make 70 miles in 10 hours of daylight I choose to leave about 2 in the afternoon thinking I would make the next anchorage, Escape River, by sunrise the next day.

However the wind gods were smiling on Fenix and under only the staysail we reached the river mouth area by 2 AM, far too early. So the navigator and the captain had a meeting and decided to press on up and around the north end, Cape York, of Australia without stopping.

The tidal currents in this area are fast and my timing was good because just as we reached the Torres Straights the tide turned to the flood. So Fenix and I zoomed through the straights, past the cape at about 7.5 knots under just the staysail in about a 12 knot breeze.

Earlier after looking at the chart of the Lord Howe Islands which includes Thursday Island I decided that it was not a very good place for a single hander to venture. The area is filled with narrow channels, small islands, reefs and of course the 3-5 knot tides. So I weenied out and took the safer, to me, route. We travelled just north of the cape, continued west for a bit then off to the SW for about 12 miles towards the very small coastal town of Seisia.

The last couple of miles into the well protected harbor area was a real duel with a 20 knot wind near on the nose and the still, now very strong flood tide fighting us for every inch of progress. I think it took about 2 1/2 hours to travel the 2 miles.

Next installment: Seisia to Darwin.

I am uploading some new stuff to the website. As time allows over the next couple of weeks there will be a number of new videos as well. Remember a video link that doesn't work means the video is not yet uploaded.

Take care,
Fred

[barfwinkle]

Thanks for the update Fred. Keep an eye out for Breezy, last reported (at least to me, others may have more recent info) on the west coast of Australia.

Fair Winds

[George Shaunfield]

Fred, it is always to good to get an update from you and hear where you are and what you are seeing and experiencing. Especially for us landlubber, occassional sailors.

Thanks for sharing and best regards,
George

[Warren Kaplan]

I just love what you're doing. I sometimes fantasize about me being aboard instead of you. (Don't worry...its just extreme fantasy on my part.)

Keep it coming. To paraphrase old Will Shakespeare....we are all looking into happiness through another man's eyes.

[fenixrises]

Hi all,

To continue: Seisia is a very small place. It is one of five small towns in this area. Most of the Cape York penisula is owned by indigenous people, not all are aboriginal. Many came from the Torres Island Straight islands and New Guinea just to the north.

One day I got in a conversation with a woman who worked at the grocery store. She told me I should go to the Seisia Fishing Club on Friday night. The are no bars in town and only one small restaurant in Seisia, so the club provides a good social gathering place for all.

I went that Friday and had a good time. I met a number of people and had a good hamburger from the BBQ while listening to the local band who were great. I spent some time talking to two younger people who are teachers in the local system. I invited Jarrad and Sandy to come out and have a look at the boat the next day, they were thrilled.

After our visit aboard they invited me on a little tour of the area. This was very good for me as the Sandy had a car so we were able to see quite a bit. They took me around to the other small towns and showed me the school where they worked.

Out in the forest where the remains of a WWII, C-47 cargo plane. It sits silently in the trees and surrounding bush. A small plaque commemorates that flyers whose lives were lost in the crash landing.

Our next stop was the airport. By this time some very heavy clouds arrived with a lot of rain. While looking at the airport, no one was there, a woman who runs a small hotel in the area arrived with her curtousy van. A TV crew was coming in to make a program about the area. The show on OZ TV is a big deal. Shown every week it deals with travel in and about the country.

Sandy was quite excited by this. We were not sure if the plane would or could even land due to the storm. But after about 30 minutes the weather cleared a bit and out in the distance we could hear the motors of a small plane. We couldn't see it through the clouds but it came closer and closer and finally we saw it as the plane flew over the field. Then a big loop around and it landed. In the remnants of the slowly dissipating storm the pilot hopped out and started to unload. The TV crew soon followed, helping with all thier gear.

Sandy wanted a picture of the crew but was too shy to ask. So I told her to give me her camera and got the guys together for a picture. They were quite happy to do this and Sandy was beside herself with excitment.

Then off we went to the grocery store for a roast chicken and a few other victuals. We took it all out to the pier and sat down as the sun set and feasted. It was a very nice afternoon despite the rain and I had a wonderful time.

There was only one problem at Seisia. This is about 10 1/2 degrees south of the eqautor. So the weather is warm and the water as well. Finally I though a place where I can enjoy some swimming in the warm water but is was not happening. Why? Because I did not want to be a crocodile's lunch!! On the beach and along much of the coast swimming in a no-no because of the crocs. Even my guide book warns of the danger all along the Queensland coast from about Cairns north and up around Cape York. Bummer dude!!

On Wednesday morning I departed Seisia. My course was a bit north of west to clear a few small islands and then a jog NW to get north of the shipping lane, then due west towards Darwin. About an 800 mile trip. Once again the cloudy weather followed me. It was rare to see a patch or two of blue sky all day and an occasional span of stars at night. I intentionally stayed in Seisia for a couple of extra days waiting for the waxing moon to build so I could have its friendly extra light at night.

I saw only a few ships but on the second night it seemed the entire northern horizon was aglow. It was filled with fishing boats. Generally I did not see the boats but thier very bright lights. These are prawn(shrimp) boats and the have huge high powered very bright white lights that shine down into the water to attract the prawns.

After that I was on my own again until I headed SW towards the entrance to the Dundas Straight. I reached Cape Don a bit before sundown and saw what looked like 3 or 4 other masts off in the distance. The Dundas Straight, Van Damien Gulf and Clarence Straight are all subject to fast tidal currents. The water is shallow, subject to eddies and overfalls and of course a channel to follow. It looked like the other boats anchored in the lee just to east of the cape.

Timing is crucial to ensure an easy(?) passage. Since it was just pass the first quarter moon the tides were neap therefore not too big. I reached Cape Don at the end of the ebb, that is flowing NNW out of the straights. About an hour later the flood started and the wind blew.

Fenix and I were smashing along with 2R main and Yankee in 20-25 knot winds close hauled until we got far enough into the gulf and SSW to ease the sheets a bit. The wind was about SSE. After that the passage through the area was pretty easy. By sunrise I was almost through and riding the ebb, this time to the west.

The day turned out to be a beautiful one. Bright sunshine and falling wind. I made it to Fanny Bay, just north of Darwin, at sunset. I didn't want to go too far into the bay with no light so I anchored out a ways, big mistake!! Early the next morning the wind came back with a vengence. I was bouncing around in 4 foot wind waves and it was blowing 20-25 knots again. I started the motor and slowly retrieved the anchor chain with an occasional wave over the bow.

Finally I was directly over the anchor but it wouldn't come free and was snatching HARD on the chain. I went aft trying to motor about a bit and trip the anchor. Finally we were free and heading off away from the land. I ran forward again to haul in the last 50 feet of chain and the anchor only to discover NO ANCHOR on the end of the chain, a shackle but no anchor! Damn! But that is why I had four anchors, I supose. I manage to get Fenix in a bit closer and re-anchored with the back-up plow. Later that afternoon the wind died down and it became a very pleasant day.

As I sit here writing this I am planning to move again, to get closer in towards the beach. Now I am 3/4 mile offshore but at low tide there is only 12' of water here. Fanny Bay is quite large but also quite shallow and the tidal range is 6 meters. That's a bit of a problem. The marinas in Darwin all have locks because of the tides. And they are all privately owned slips AND very expensive for short term use. So I will be spending my time here at anchor.

Now that I moved about .4 miles closer to the beach it's great. Still, at the lowest of the tide I have only about one foot under the keel and am over a 1/4 mile from the beach.

On my first day ashore I met a man at the Darwin Sailing Club who is from Belgium. He and his wife are caravaning about OZ. Willie is quite a veteran traveller having traversed every continent riding a motorcycle. In the caravan they have travelled Europe and driven the lenght of Africa.

They have been very helpful and taken me about in the van to see a bit of the city. Willie also offered to help me make a provisioning run to the grocery store using his van.They are now thinking about buying a sailboat to continue thier travels by sea. I think they will do very well, having a good sense of adventure and self-sufficiency.

Yesterday I met Paul aboard Patolo(?) a slightly enlarged, f/g, H-28. He is Australian and has previously cruised up to Thailand and back. I will probably sail in company with him and a couple of other boats. I am not taking part in the cruise rally, too expensive and too structured for me.

I will be here for about 2-3 more weeks and then head off NW towards Timor and the rest of Indonesia, Malaysia and finally Thailand.

Take care,
Fred

[fenixrises]

Hi all,

The cruising crowd is slowly building in Darwin. I think the marinas are just about filled and the anchorage out here in Fanny Bay is filling. There must be about 40-50 boats here and the numbers are sure to increase over the next two weeks.

I am awaiting my USCG documentation to catch up to me and some other mail then I'll be free to continue the journey. Have had many good discussions with Paul from Patolo.

He was planning to leave about the 16th depending upon some necessary paperwork(not boat related) being done. Another couple or two will be going with our small group. The big cruising rally departs on the 21st of July heading for the island of Timor.

Willie, the Belgian, and his wife are trying to secure crew space to get a taste of ocean sailing by going to Indonesia. A couple of yachties have expressed interest.

About all I have to do is a big provisioning run. I will do that later this week with Willies assitance. Since water is questionable in Indonesia I am making sure all water tanks, jugs and bottles are full before I leave. However diesel is much cheaper in Indo therefore I will take only a minimal amount, say about 15 gals.

I was gifted a copy of C-Maps back in Suva and Paul gifted me a newer version of its charts. The program runs well on my old laptop and is really great. I do not leave the laptop on all the time and do not intergrate the GPS with the program although I could.

So far the combination has worked well. I can get my waypoints and put them into the GPS before leaving. That coupled with the paper charts or guide books has worked very well for me.

I find myself already thinking about the next major leg, crossing the Indian Ocean to Cape Town. Probably leave Thailand about Dec this year.

I am uploading four more videos right now. The webpage has been updated with some new pics and text.

I do not know if there are good or available internet cafes in Indo so you might not hear from me for a while after I leave OZ. I will probably write in once more before I leave.

Take care and enjoy the summer sailing out there,
Fred

[fenixrises]

Hi all,

Planned departure is this coming Thursday.

We are heading for Dili, East Timor. I know it is reported as a trouble spot but so is all of Indonesia!!

Main reason to go is the CAIT. That's the Indo required cruising permit. The Aussie Indo rally will do it for you as part of the $450Aus package, but I have found out from reliable sources that the CAIT can be had in Dili in ONE day for $65 instead of six weeks from the usual source of the rally. A big difference.

Indo seems a fasinating place to visit despite various problems. I will soon find out. Malaysia and Thailand seem to be a bit tamer and certainly much easier with little or no cost for checking in and out.

Really bulked up on the food and goodies 'cause I expect slim pickings for a couple of months in stores and such. But a big advantage through SE Asia is cheap eating in small retaurants throughout the area. Provided of course that I like what is available.

Take care in the summer sun and keep your heads aware of the big blows,
Fred

[SPIBob]

Fred,
Based on my experiences, mostly in the Philippines, you can always find fresh seafood, fresh veggies and fruit and, of course, rice. And it's usually very good and very cheap. Then there are the delicacies and exotics, like duck embryos in the shell and fermented shrimp paste. Requires a more adventuresome palate!

Fair winds and keep the posts and pictures coming. Lot's of CDers, especially us 28ers, are following your exploits and looking forward to your latest updates.

SPIBob

[fenixrises]

Hi all,

Had a good but slow passage up from Darwin. It took one week in light airs and calms. I had the waxing to full moon which was a real comfort at night.

I saw very little shipping or fishing boats during the trip, only the first night. I did see one sailboat as I neared the end of Timor island. From his heading I think he was going back to OZ.

Got to Dili Wednesday AM. Checking in was easy with a $30 fee.
The country has been using the US dollar since the UN has been here, about 5 years now I think.

The place is a mess after 5 years of revolution and social unrest but it doesn't seem dangerous to me. The people are very friendly and speak Indonesia and Portugese since Dili has been a Portugese outpost for hundreds of years.

Some English is available here and there. The good thing is that it is far less expensive than NZ and OZ. There's a good sized supermarket on the main road next to the harbour and many small eateries about. Diesel is cheap but you must boil the water or buy bottled, $1/5gals.

I went to the Indo embassy this AM to get my CAIT(Clearance Approval for Indonesian Territories). I think I'm getting it, will know when I go back Tues PM.

Met an Aussie here who runs a powerboat charter service. He's a wealth of info and has a small restaurant in the harbor as well, "The Habour Cafe". He also keeps a book for yachties to sign. I'll be doing that in the next few days.

Next week it's off to Kupang, Timor at the west end of the island.

Take care,
Fred

[Warren Kaplan]

Glad all is well. I just love your sailing saga. Keep it coming!!

[chase]

Hi Fred, glad you're adventure is going well. How many miles was the trip from Darwin to Timor? Looked like 400+ on wall map. Was the slow pace restful, meaning can one snooze a little more moving at a couple of knots?

A couple of questions I've been meaning to ask you:

Where does the Pacific end and the Indian begin? Is the area you're planning to cruise in now the South China Sea?

Which route to the Atlantic will you take?

When the sea is coming from a particular direction and affecting boat control in some adverse way or just plain driving you nuts, do you alter course to a more agreeable wave orientation even at the sacrifice of the rhumb line? In my coastal cruising I've encountered a couple of combinations that seemed like it would wear my a** out over the course of day(s).

Weather permitting I'll be sailing from Cape Fear - to St. Simons, GA in early Nov. It'll be my first multi-day passage and I'll be ready for a break from the farm.

Take Care,

Chase

[fenixrises]

Hi all,

Had a pretty easy 1&1/2 day sail from Dili to Kupang.

The Indo consul gave me a visa not a CAIT. So I cannot legally cruise Indo. Since it is a hassle to get one, expensive and time consuming I am going to leave Kupang. I will drift through Indo stopping at small places but nothing big.

Should be to Malaysia by the end of Sept. Malaysia, Singapore and Thailand are no hassle and easy to check in and out.

It was about 500 miles from Darwin to Dili. The slower pace doesn't really make it more or less restful or peaceful. If the wind is zero or very light then I have to listen to the motor, which I am used to by now. If it is very calm I sleep in the v-berth to get away from the noise.

Strong wind makes it tough to rest because that usually means bigger seas. The motion is such that it is tough to sleep easily. Imagine being in bed with someone on each corner lifting and dropping the bed a couple feet at different intervals, you get the idea.

I think the divide between Indian Ocean and Pacific is around Cape York on the north end of OZ. That's the Torres Straights.

The ocean area of Indo I believe is the Java Sea. South China Sea is farther north and a bit east up near the Philippines I believe.

I am going round south Africa then up to the Caribbean. I think I'll cross the north Atlantic rather than the south.

In the open ocean there are almost always seas from 3-4 different directions so altering course does not do much to ease conditions. When the wind is over about 15 knots tacking downwind also has little effect since the boat is going as fast as it can.

I often sail dead downwind in these conditions, if it is the shortest route. Since the seas are coming from 3 or 4 different directions and I'm already making 5+ knots, tacking to increase boat speed or ease motion doesn't help.

Chase I hope your first multiday passage goes well.

It will probably be 4-6 weeks till I get to internet again.

Enjoy the fine summer sailing all.

Take care,
Fred

[fenixrises]

Hi all,

Decided to breeze through Indo. Since I didn't have a CAIT and I had a hankering to sail that's what I did. My last real stop was a small island. Longgo, on the north coast of Flores Island at the east end.

Very primative. No electricity, sewage or water. All the houses built up on stilts to stay out of the water. The people were very friendly and I met one man who could speak a little English. He told me "I can speak a little English" and that was about the extent of his ability. But then I don't speak Indonesian either.

But we made it work. He came to the boat in my dingy, I needed lub oil for the Volvo and the Indo word for oil meant cooking oil, I think. So I pulled the dipstick and showed him. He smelled it and indicated no problem. One small toyo, Indonesian for store, had two stroke and diesel oil, also diesel fuel. That's usually sold about one gallon at a time.

I also managed to clean out the stock of soda(18 bottles) in another small store. These stores are inevitably part of someone's house. I also got some cookies and crackers for snacks.

As in many of these small villages and seaside towns fishing is a daily ritual, fish being a main dietary staple. The locals build thier own boats. They are long and narrow, carvel planked with what looks like a type of Philippine mahagony. They have clipper bows and low freeboard typical of real working fishing boats. Most are powered by a small single cylinder diesel engine direct drive to a prop and shaft. The engines are water cooled with dry exhaust.

More later about my passage through Indonesian waters.

Take Care,
Fred

[Oswego John]

Fred,

The "LOG" of your journey is fascinating. It helps satisfy the yearnings of those of us who can only make a cruise, such as yours, in our dreams.

Thanks,
O J

[Warren Kaplan]

Fred,

The "LOG" of your journey is fascinating. It helps satisfy the yearnings of those of us who can only make a cruise, such as yours, in our dreams.

Thanks,
O J

Such were the thoughts of the Bard when he observed

How bitter a thing it is to look into happiness through another man's eyes.
(As You Like it)