Topping lifts....

D. Stump, Hanalei · Post by **D. Stump, Hanalei** » Nov 1st, '99, 07:14

Hanalei is being placed on the hard as we speak, and I've been thinking about the main boom topping lift. It is currently a single braded line of about 1/4- 3/8". It bothers me because it is always under tension when the rig is stowed. I always anticipate it snapping and dropping the main boom on the cabin top or worse on someones' head! The question is, can I replace the topping lift with a wire one? If so, what size wire to use? Also, will a wire lift tend to chafe the main more than a rope one would? I would still use the short piece of line to adjust the topping lift at the end of the boom. Any comments would be appreciated. Thanks...

Dave Stump
Captain Commanding (on half-pay)
s/v Hanalei, CD=-30

Chris Reinke · Post by **Chris Reinke** » Nov 1st, '99, 08:21

Dave - You could certainly replace the line with a wire cable which leads to a line. I would not suggest using only a cable lift as you would not have any ability for adjustments. My CD330 has wire which leads to an adjustable line. I would offer another possible option for your consideration which may be less costly. On my old day sailor we added a short wire to the aft shroud and secured the other end to the boom with a snap shackle. This allowed us to eliminate the tension on the toping lift while the sail was secured. This arrangement will not provide you any protection from the topping lift snapping while you are raising or lowering the main, but the overall cost might make this an attractive option.

Mike Everett · Post by **Mike Everett** » Nov 1st, '99, 08:26

Dr. Pepper, our CD28, has a wire topping lift of one-eighth inch (I think) diameter. It adjusts with a polyester line and two small blocks on the boom end.
We have no problems with this arrangement. There's plenty of room between the topping lift and the roach to prevent chafing, and if the topping lift swings against the sail it can be tightened.
Mike Everett
s/v Dr. Pepper

everett@megalink.net

Don Carr · Post by **Don Carr** » Nov 1st, '99, 11:48

Dave; Try the Yale StaSet-X it may actually be a better alternative than wire. I'm using 5/16 as Spinnaker Halyards and I can assure you that 300+ sq feet of spinnaker load is more than your topping lift will ever have to endure. Also, if you are in the mood to spend money try a solid boom vang. I 've sailed a couple of newer boats and they are great. Just lock them in and voila..topping lift from below.

By the way it was a terrific sailing weekend in Niantic. Warm and 15 knot breeze on Friday. The boat is in the water until Thanksgiving..so give me a shout if you'd like to do a sail or two before the weather closes in.

Regards.
Don Carr
s/v Camanae CD25 #783

carrd@erols.com

Bill Goldsmith · Post by **Bill Goldsmith** » Nov 1st, '99, 14:08

One of my neighboring slip-mates ditched his topping lift completely on his Bristol 26. He has replaced it with a $190 Garhauer rigid vang which doubles as a "topping lift" as well. I have been a bit disappointed with the topping lift on my CD27 which came to me as a static dacron line from the top of the mast, tied off at the end of the boom with a taut line hitch. I haven't yet devised a way to make an adjuster with blocks, etc. After getting a demo last weekend of the Garhauer I am almost ready to go that way. Any reaction to this idea?

Bill Goldsmith
CD27
Second Chance

goldy@bestweb.net

Don S. · Post by **Don S.** » Nov 1st, '99, 14:16

Dave,
I was pondering the same thing this weekend as I was sitting on the roof enjoying a springlike October day and trying to avoid the messy stuff below. I had a wire topping lift on my folkboat. It had a rope tail on the mast end for adjustment. The wire led through a sheave made for wire and I used a shockcord on the boom end to take out the slap when it was loosened and never had a problem with chafe on the leech. I nicro-pressed a short piece of wire with a thimble about 18" from the end so the shockcord could be attached. The shockcord being shorter took out he slap. I don't like the idea of the line always sitting in roughly the same spot either, but I wonder how the nylon sheave on the existing rig would hold up with the wire running over it.

Don Sargeant
~~COQUINA~~

don@cliggott.com

D. Stump, Hanalei · Post by **D. Stump, Hanalei** » Nov 1st, '99, 15:27

No, I don't think I want to go to a rigid vang. It wasn't on the original, and Hanalei is about as an original CD-30 as you can get! I was only wondering if there were any drawbacks to using a wire topping lift as compared to a rope lift.

Dave Stump
Captain Commanding (on half-pay)
s/v Hanalei, CD-30

yves feder · Post by **yves feder** » Nov 1st, '99, 15:36

No wire on ours Dave - the synthetic seems fine - but I have a question. Does your topping lift run through a cheek block at the end of the boom and also double as a mainsail outhaul? (with line running towards forward end of boom to a cleat where tension can be adjusted... clumsy but workable.)

I wonder if this was an original setup on many CD's. Ours is a 1977 CD27.

Best,

Yves

alphee@tinyradio.com

chuck yahrling · Post by **chuck yahrling** » Nov 1st, '99, 16:31

Capt Dave;

'Been contemplating the same situation for my CD-27. The only thing I've read says that the rope is easier on the roach than a wire would be, but I like the idea of reduced windage aand increased strength with the wire. A compromise setup would be to go to a mountain climbing gear store and get some of the super thin, super strong spectra-type line. I'm probably going to do that, with thimbles at each end, and keep the 3-part tackle and cam-cleat I put on the boom end.

yahrling@cybertours.com

Catherine Monaghan · Post by **Catherine Monaghan** » Nov 1st, '99, 16:56

Dave,

Our CD32 has a wire topping lift attached to an adjustable line (block and tackle) so it can be done.

Here's a suggestion -- if you haven't removed your halyards you can attach the main halyard to the midsection of the boom to share in the load along with the topping lift. You can wrap it around the boom aft of one of the boom bails to keep it from sliding forward and shackle it to itself or you can wrap a boom vang strap (webbing with D-rings) around the boom and attach the halyard to it.

catherine_monaghan@merck.com
CD32 Realization
Rahway, NJ
Raritan Bay

catherine_monaghan@merck.com

DDON · Post by **DDON** » Nov 1st, '99, 18:43

BY THE WAY , WHAT IS A TOPPING LIFT ? I AM A NEOPHYTE AND DON'T YET KNOW THE PROPER NAMES FOR ALL THE THINGS ON A SAILBOAT SO PLEASE ENLIGHTEN ME. IF IT IS WHAT I GUESS IT MIGHT BE I CAN TELL YOU THAT MY TYPHOON HAS A LENGTH (ABOUT 16") OF WIRE CABLE SPLICED INTO THE BACK STAY AT AN APPROPRIATE HEIGHT WITH A FITTING (DON'T KNOW IT'S NAME) THAT ATTACHES TO THE END OF THE BOOM AND SUPPORTS THE BOOM WHEN THE MAINSAIL IS STORED. THE BOOM IS ALSO EQUIPPED WITH A VANG WHICH IS QUITE A USEFULL GADGET AND THERE IS ALSO A TRANSVERSE TRACK WITH PULLEYS AND LINES TO ADJUST THE BOOM ATHWARTSHIP (?)JUST AFT OF THE COCKPIT COAMING WHICH I GUESS IS CALLED A TRAVELER BUT WHICH I HAVE NOT YET USED SINCE I DON'T KNOW WHAT IT WILL CONTRIBUTE TO MY SAILING FUN.

DONJOECAM@AOL.COM

Rob Hindman · Post by **Rob Hindman** » Nov 1st, '99, 19:29

Dear Bill,
After researching several rigid vangs, I purchased a Hood Vang at the Annapolis Show for our CD 28. I just received it and it looks like a quality product. I had the good fortune to speak with the designer. I did look at the Garhauer Vang at the show, but decided to go with Hood because of the quality of the engineering and info provided by Hood. The Hood Vang is more expensive, but appears to have a higher quality spring system and better engineering. I'll install the vang over the winter. Good luck with your shopping. Rob (CD - 28 DORMOUSE)

Russ Campbell · Post by **Russ Campbell** » Nov 1st, '99, 21:00

I took my topping lift right off. I always hated the way it rubbed on the sails when sailing and I did have it break and drop the boom on the dodger once. I replaced it with my lazy jacks. Even though they are only partway back on the boom they hold it just fine and they stay out of the way when sailing.

Russ

camroll@together.net

D. Stump, Hanalei · Post by **D. Stump, Hanalei** » Nov 2nd, '99, 06:01

Yves,
The adjusting line for the topping lift is bitter ended at a eye on one side of the end of the boom, goes up to a single block at the end of the topping lift, down to a cheek block on the other side of the boom to a small cleat. The outhaul is completely seperate from the topping lift rig. Don't know if this is how it was done on all CD-30's, but my brothers CD-30B did have the same set up.

Dave Stump
Hanalei

D. Stump, Hanalei · Post by **D. Stump, Hanalei** » Nov 2nd, '99, 06:51

DDon,
A topping lift is a line used to lift a boom. The 16" piece of wire you describe, I would simply call a stopper. It just supports the boom when the rig is stowed. A topping lift is usually adjustable, one place it is used is to support a spinaker pole at the proper height to allow the spinaker to fill properly. A down haul on the other hand would hold the spinaker pole down towards the deck, so that the spinaker when filling does not raise it up in the air. This means the topping lift and downhaul work in opposition to each other to maintain the pole in the proper position. Hope this helps...

Oh, by the way, communicating on the internet in CAPITAL letters is considered shouting!!

D. Stump, Hanalei

The Cape Dory Board

Topping lifts....

Topping lifts....

Re: Topping lifts....

Re: Topping lifts....

Re: Topping lifts....

What about a rigid vang?? Pros/Cons?

Re: Topping lifts....

Re: I think not,, want to keep her as original as possible..

Re: Topping lifts....

Re: Topping lifts....

Re: Topping lifts....

Re: Topping lifts....

Re: What about a rigid vang?? Pros/Cons?

Re: Topping lifts....

Re: Topping lifts....

Re: Topping lifts....