Best way to access CD28 stuffing box?

[Tommy Wade]

Greetings All,
Well it looks as if I am going to have to re-pack Intrepid's stuffing box. Would really like to do it myself if possible so I can be sure it's done correctly. I've read ALL of the posts on this board regarding stuffing boxes so I think I have a good handle on how to do it. Only problem now is that I can't figure out how to get to the stuffing box with both hands free. I've tried lying in the cockpit lockers but never can seem to get more than one hand on the stuffing box. How are you guys doing it? BTW "Intrepid" is a 1983 CD28.

Thanks,

Tommy

[Oswego John]

Hi Tommy,

You might have to resort to the technique that the team of two one armed carpenters use. One holds the nail while the other one swings the hammer.

Seriously, maybe you can entice the first mate or bribe one of the neighborhood kids to climb into the other locker and hold a screwdriver on the packing nut or jamb nut as you whack it.

Maybe getting a second hand in there to guide a spanner or maybe to tap a piece of PVC from one side as you guide it on the packing from the opposite locker.

As previously mentioned, make sure that you provide a failsafe so that the locker lid doesn't slam shut with you inside. I kid you not.

Good luck,
O J

[paul marko]

On my 1977 cd 28 I had a packing gland with flats on the nut and flats on the threaded part. I placed a pipe wench on the nut side and layed the handle against the hull , another pipe wrench was fitted to the threaded side and I pushed on the handle to release the nut. I reversed this procedure to tighten the gland nut. I could usually get 4 loops of flax packing in the gland. This worked for 30 years, it always requires a second trip below each year to retighten the packing gland. The flax packing would last about 2 years.

I am now a little old and stiff to do this job every 2 years and I have changed toa dripless packing and I am very happy with it.No more contortions in the belge. There are some draw backs to this system, basically there is a below the water line fitting that is required to cool the dripless gland, it could let in some water if were to fail.

If I haven't been perfectly clear, I guess I could reply with greater detail if so desired.

[Stan W.]

Only problem now is that I can't figure out how to get to the stuffing box with both hands free. I've tried lying in the cockpit lockers but never can seem to get more than one hand on the stuffing box. How are you guys doing it?

There is no special trick. You lie on your belly in the sail locker with your feet as far aft as they will go and your head, arms and upper torso sticking through the opening into the "engine room." If you are right-handed, try the port locker; left-handed try the starboard locker. I have never had a problem using both hands, but I am medium hight and (more or less) medium build. I could see where it might be a problem if you were really tall or really burly.

[sgbernd]

I have CD-28s/n 359 from 1983 so assume they are similar. I open and remove all contents from both lockers since you are likely going to need to use both and remove the boards covering the access. String a trouble light over the gland for illumination and place a cushion over the edge of the ascess cutout to save your back. I have the bronze wrench set from Spartan which is helpful to loosen or tighten but many people just use the hammer and screw driver. Block the path to the bilge (beneath the engine pan) with a rag as every item you drop will make a run for it.

You will want to go in thru the access port head first and and you can easily reach the packing gland. Get your assistant to stand by and supply tools you need thru the other access as getting in and out is no fun. I generously grease the threads so when I take the nut off in a couple of years, it comes out easily. I use the West Marine Teflon packing (against recomendation of owners manual) and do not see ill effects but my engine only runs about 50 hrs/year.

The hardest part of the whole effort is removing the last ring of old packing which sometimes doesn't like to come out. I use medium fishooks held by needle nose pliers but have broken a few of the fishooks in the extraction process. A pick is also useful but sometimes is clumsy to get all the way to the last row.

From start to finish, the effort takes a couple of hours. Then the crick in the back should be better in a week or so.