Again with the white oak

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marka
Posts: 218
Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 19:50
Location: Linda Jean
CD 27
Hull 219
Oswego, NY

Again with the white oak

Post by marka »

The wind was up and the clouds were out so I went down to the boat Friday after work for a couple of hours on the water. When I got there I found the starboard cockpit coaming all busted up. The jib sheet cleat was also missing.

The evidence suggests the spring line I had looped ove the sheet winch got caught on the sheet cleat and with the wind on the starboard side just pulled the cleat outboard and out of the coaming (in the drink).

The coaming is beyond repair so off I went to Lakeshore Hardwoods in Pulaski NY for some white oak. I'll replace both coamings at the same time and the trim on the aft end of the cockpit as well so everything matches.

The white oak was $3.50/ board foot and is beaurtiful and clear. Compare this to teak at $22.00 /board foot.
Mark Abramski
chase
Posts: 532
Joined: Jul 22nd, '05, 22:45
Location: "Cheoah" PSC 34

qtr sawn white oak

Post by chase »

I have a bunch in stock, cut off the farm with bandsaw mill. I'm thinking about replacing bowsprit with it this winter. Need to search archives for bowsprit replacements....

It's all 5/4, reckon I should laminate it.

Have fun with your coaming project, what thickness will you make it?

How does the coaming attach to the cabin? Is there just a screw countersunk in the short 90° section?

Chase
Ron M.
Posts: 1037
Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 11:32
Location: CD30c Harwich,Ma.

Bowsprit

Post by Ron M. »

Chase,
There is some info in the archives on this subject. Quarter sawn w/oak is a good choice.......You will need 8/4 stock as it finishes out at 1-3/4". I built one out of this material a few yrs. ago - 1" laminations with 5 stainless threaded rods , nuts bolts. it has held up excellently. I used a teak oil stain and finished with Armada,(has to be refinished yearly).
Also replaced combing boards. Used full 4/4 teak,(it is the nature of quarter sawn lumber not come in widths much greater than 6"- unless you had a monster tree). The angled end that attaches to the cabin side is through bolted into a backer in the cabin interior
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Honda cbr600f3 specifications
Last edited by Ron M. on Feb 11th, '11, 05:40, edited 1 time in total.
chase
Posts: 532
Joined: Jul 22nd, '05, 22:45
Location: "Cheoah" PSC 34

bowsprit

Post by chase »

Ron,

Did you stay with the rectangular shape or taper at teh front like I've seen some on this board? I'm trying to think through a second anchor at the sprit, something like a fortress. I'm not so sure there is room up there for that in addition to CQR.

Anyway, thanks for the ideas. The bolt idea sounds good, how do the nuts look on the side there? 3/8" rod?

Chase
Ron M.
Posts: 1037
Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 11:32
Location: CD30c Harwich,Ma.

Post by Ron M. »

The nuts and washers are countersunk with a 7/8" wood bung. I kept it at 10" in width. You could go a bit wider and taper it back. you would have to cut the toe rail accordingly to accommodate any increase in width.
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Last edited by Ron M. on Feb 11th, '11, 05:40, edited 1 time in total.
Jumping Flea
Posts: 11
Joined: Apr 15th, '07, 14:26
Location: CD-30

Original dimensions

Post by Jumping Flea »

I need to replace a broken bowsprit on my cd 30. Does anyone have the original dimensions? The end is missing, so I can't measure.

Suggestions on beefing it up?

Would oak be better than the original ash?

Thanks for any advice.
Oswego John
Posts: 3535
Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 20:42
Location: '66 Typhoon "Grace", Hull # 42, Schooner "Ontario", CD 85D Hull #1

Re: Bowsprit

Post by Oswego John »

Ron Musk wrote:Chase,
Quarter sawn w/oak is a good choice....... I used a teak oil stain and finished with Armada,(has to be refinished yearly).
Hi Ron,

Are you saying that you used a can of oil type stain that actually reads "Teak" on the label, or did you choose an oil stain that closely matched the other teak on your boat?

I looked today for stain for white oak but didn't see any "Teak" stain. The "Mahogany" stain looked too reddish. I thought I might try "Fruitwood" or "Pecan".

Is there is a stain called "Teak" (which I've never had reason to use before)? If so,I'll try another paint store till I find it.

Mark A, did you stain your white oak or leave it natural? What stain did you use, if any.

I'm sold on white oak. Going to give it a try for bright work.

O J
marilou
Posts: 213
Joined: Jan 17th, '06, 10:29
Location: CD 270/Virginia

teak stain

Post by marilou »

You might try Cabot's Honey Teak Australian Timber Oil. Available at Lowes - they sell small sample size cans.
Ron M.
Posts: 1037
Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 11:32
Location: CD30c Harwich,Ma.

Stain

Post by Ron M. »

OJ,
Zar, natural teak woodstain #120 (oil based). It will make w/oak appear to be teak.
Bowsprit is close to 10" X 52" X 1-3/4" (going from memory)
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Last edited by Ron M. on Feb 11th, '11, 05:40, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
marka
Posts: 218
Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 19:50
Location: Linda Jean
CD 27
Hull 219
Oswego, NY

Post by marka »

I'm just going to use Cetol Marine Light on the White Oak. It finishes lighter than on teak and I actually prefer it since it doesn't look as brown/orange.

John, if you get a chance to wander around Wright's Landing, Linda Jean in on Blue 35. The Dorade Box is white oak finished as described above.

I just finished rough cutting the coamings last night. I'll probably fit/install them unfinished later this week then remove them and finish them next week.
Mark Abramski
chase
Posts: 532
Joined: Jul 22nd, '05, 22:45
Location: "Cheoah" PSC 34

Cetol Natural

Post by chase »

I think I'll try this cetol natural business, the new stuff that was recently discussed. With a freshly prepped surface and constant vigilance thereafter, I have high hopes for nice looking practical finish.

Chase
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