Frozen Seacoks

[Richard Formica]

I pulled my boat early this season be begin correcting the msitakes of a previous owner. I have begun work on the seacocks and specifically the raw water intake seacock. I have three questions. The first regarding the the end nut-what is the preferred penetrant? WD 40 was not effective. The second, once I get the nuts off, will a rubber mallet and piece of wood be enough to free the cylinder? I am concerned here about some corrosion I can see when looking up the seacock from the outside. Lastly, how much torque can I apply while trying to free up the nut? These Spartan Marine seacocks look rugged but when applying torque to the wrench, the force is perpendicular to the axis of the seacock and I was concern this could cause damage.
Thanks.
rich
s/v Inerarity
CD36

[Joe Brown]

Hi, Rich: The best way to free up frozen seacocks I've found is to first apply WD-40 and if that doesn't work, try some heat on the seacocks (a heat gun or even a hair drier will work, but I wouldn't use open flame like propane.) Then back the outer nut off but leave enough of it over the threads so when you tap you won't damage the threads. After the cylinder breaks free, remove the nut entirely and you've got it made. I don't know what the maximum torque should be but usually when you apply heat the nut will free up easily. Good luck. – Joe Brown, Rockport, Maine



I pulled my boat early this season be begin correcting the msitakes of a previous owner. I have begun work on the seacocks and specifically the raw water intake seacock. I have three questions. The first regarding the the end nut-what is the preferred penetrant? WD 40 was not effective. The second, once I get the nuts off, will a rubber mallet and piece of wood be enough to free the cylinder? I am concerned here about some corrosion I can see when looking up the seacock from the outside. Lastly, how much torque can I apply while trying to free up the nut? These Spartan Marine seacocks look rugged but when applying torque to the wrench, the force is perpendicular to the axis of the seacock and I was concern this could cause damage.

Thanks.
rich
s/v Inerarity
CD36

joebrown@mint.net

[Ken Coit]

The cockpit drain seacocks were frozen open on Parfait. When she was hauled, the yard discovered that barnacles had decided that was home, and they were not budging. It took quite a bit of work to remove them.

One lesson is that you ought to exercise those sea valves (or is it exorcise those barnacles) fairly often. Reaching the starboard seacock is a stretch, but you need to do it. Otherwise, there is only a hose between a dry bilge and a very busy bilge pump.

Ken Coit
S/V Parfait
CD-36

Hi, Rich: The best way to free up frozen seacocks I've found is to first apply WD-40 and if that doesn't work, try some heat on the seacocks (a heat gun or even a hair drier will work, but I wouldn't use open flame like propane.) Then back the outer nut off but leave enough of it over the threads so when you tap you won't damage the threads. After the cylinder breaks free, remove the nut entirely and you've got it made. I don't know what the maximum torque should be but usually when you apply heat the nut will free up easily. Good luck. – Joe Brown, Rockport, Maine


I pulled my boat early this season be begin correcting the msitakes of a previous owner. I have begun work on the seacocks and specifically the raw water intake seacock. I have three questions. The first regarding the the end nut-what is the preferred penetrant? WD 40 was not effective. The second, once I get the nuts off, will a rubber mallet and piece of wood be enough to free the cylinder? I am concerned here about some corrosion I can see when looking up the seacock from the outside. Lastly, how much torque can I apply while trying to free up the nut? These Spartan Marine seacocks look rugged but when applying torque to the wrench, the force is perpendicular to the axis of the seacock and I was concern this could cause damage.

Thanks.
rich
s/v Inerarity
CD36

ken.coit@fnc.fujitsu.com