Repower 2ym15 upate, and cable housing removal dillemma

[Jim Kortleven]

Hello all,

So far I have removed the old YSM8, and everything that goes with it; except for the housing that the cables and control handles attach to. I removed the handles. All my cables are detached and removed. I just cannot figure out how to separate the part that is on the exterior of the port lazarette to the interior of the lazarette. I have a brand new control system, so last resort is a sawzall. Any advise? I already removed a split ring from the exterior side.

On other notes:

I removed the engine and all wires and cables associated with it, including the instrument panel and wiring harness. I also removed everything from the lazarettes and rear locker, including batteries and I disconnected power leads to the batteries and routed the temoparily over by the stove.
I removed and replaced the cutlass bearing (the PO had cut part of the log, so I will have to glass in the new one. It only goes about 2" into the log). For what it's worth, the shaft log from aft looking forward; if you slide your finger into it, the is a decrease in diameter. If one measures the inner diameter from the engine side it will be larger than the propeller side. The cutlass bearing goes in from the rear where the diameter is greater, the hits a small wall. That is where you stop the cutlass bearing. It was recommended that I freeze the new cutlass bearing before inserting it. It did go in much easier. My boat had no set screws.
I painted my lockers and lazarettes. In my previous post, I was looking for recommedations about color. I bought three qts of White Bilgecoat,(its only sold in qts) went to my paint supplier and had him add dark blue tint to a new gallon can. I mixed in the paint and have a lovely shade of sky blue. btw I cleaned and degreased everything prior to painting. I used this product that came in a gallon can that I mixed with water, gunk gone or gunk buster. I will repost the name of the product. It was excellent.

Today my engine came in. I bought a 2ym15. I'm doing most of the work, then my dealer will do the fine tuning, inspection of my work and and adjusting. This way I'll have the warranty. He loaned me a jig he uses that is a template of where the new motor goes and how it lines up with the center of the coupler on the shaft. The angle of the shaft is the factor that determines everything. The jig shows me how I will have to build up the bed. From a crude first look; it seems like I will have to cut some of the sides where the stairs lock into out, and add to the front angled mounts forward about two inches. I can possible remove some parts of the motor to make it fit, but I would rather have the motor slide in easily. My height looks more than ample.

Next post I'll have some pictures.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions, ideas, or improvements,
I'm making this up as I go along; wish me luck,

Jim Kortleven

[John D.]

On the interior of the port locker, there was a 3/4" thick piece of built-up plywood & fiberglass, that was a backer for the throttle/shift assembly. I took a chisel and hammer and just carefully chipped it out. I started by just chipping a thin layer away. By the time I got close to the main wall of the locker, the remaining built-up piece was thinner (and weaker) than the main wall. The new lever covered the hole.

[Jim Kortleven]

Thanks John,

I'll try it tomorrow. Was gonna work on the boat today buy got offered a chance to sail with my buddy on his Oday 28. Nice boat. Quite roomy compared to my CD 27. That was more fun than mucking nwith West System.

BTW I saw a real fine Cape Dory 26 out by Stepping Stones Light. That boat was sweet!! Anybody know who that may be??

Jim