We are refitting SHERPA our 79 CD36 for long distance voyaging and i want to install an electric windlass with an all chain rode. She has a 45lb CQR as the primary anchor and used to have a SL manual windlass on the bowsprit which i removed. Over time (I don't know how long it was there) the hause through the bowsprit had caused very serious rust damage to the mild steel stem plate and the backing plate for the bobstay. Any other owners have this type of installation with similar problems?
The question is where to install an electric windlass? The only option I see at this point is a thru deck installation just aft of the staysail deck fitting, around where the forward cleats are located.
Anyone have such an installation, if so did you have to move the cleats? What type of windlass did you install?
The other problem is using all chain rode. I want to go with 3/8 hightest, but at close to a pound and a half a foot, i'm concerned that the present arrangement in the chain locker is inadequate for the 450 some lbs of 300 ft. of chain. Thinking of cutting a piece out of the bottom of the vertical plywood wall seperating the lockers and building some sort of well or box as low as possible right down the center.
Any ideas/advice from CD36 owners who have installed an electric windlass and/or have gone with all chain rode would be dearly appreciated at this point.
Sincerely,
Greg
koz@seijo.ac.jp
Seeking advice on ground tackle arrangement for CD36
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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John
Re: Seeking advice on ground tackle arrangement for CD36
Greg, we don't have a 36 but I can tell you how our 30 is laid out. Maybe some of the info will help you. She has a Simpson Lawrence vertical "Volans" reversing electric windlass with foredeck and cockpit forward and reversing foot switches. It is rigged with a BBB rope/chain gypsy and an integral hawse hole. The system has worked very well. We also have a Simpson Lawrence vertical manual "Anchorman" windlass for the second rode. It is rigged with hi-test. It uses a seperate hawse hole that is not a part of the windlass itself. In my experiences with both designs I prefer the integral hawse hole design. It handles the rode entry to below deck far better with a vertical windlass. Also triple B chain (BBB) is far better, it conforms better by feeding below deck easier and "piles better" if you know what I mean. It's link design allows it to turn and lay better. It's all I would use in the future.We are refitting SHERPA our 79 CD36 for long distance voyaging and i want to install an electric windlass with an all chain rode. She has a 45lb CQR as the primary anchor and used to have a SL manual windlass on the bowsprit which i removed. Over time (I don't know how long it was there) the hause through the bowsprit had caused very serious rust damage to the mild steel stem plate and the backing plate for the bobstay. Any other owners have this type of installation with similar problems?
The question is where to install an electric windlass? The only option I see at this point is a thru deck installation just aft of the staysail deck fitting, around where the forward cleats are located.
Anyone have such an installation, if so did you have to move the cleats? What type of windlass did you install?
The other problem is using all chain rode. I want to go with 3/8 hightest, but at close to a pound and a half a foot, i'm concerned that the present arrangement in the chain locker is inadequate for the 450 some lbs of 300 ft. of chain. Thinking of cutting a piece out of the bottom of the vertical plywood wall seperating the lockers and building some sort of well or box as low as possible right down the center.
Any ideas/advice from CD36 owners who have installed an electric windlass and/or have gone with all chain rode would be dearly appreciated at this point.
Sincerely,
Greg
The rode locker has been divided with a removable partition. I use rope / chain rodes. 85' of chain on each rode. All cutout edges through the deck were sealed with epoxy and a top coat of polyurethane. Backing plates are 1/4" stainless plate fabricated by a local machine shop. I polished them with a bench buffer to enhance their passivity and further protected them with a treatment of Winchinox to prevent future rusting. Windlasses and hardware were bedded with polysulfide. They are located just forward of the staysail boom pedestal on the CD30, one to starboard and one to port. They utilize 1/4" bronze plate atop the bow sprit to prevent chain chafe to the surface of the teak sprit. The bronze plates butt up to twin ABI bronze chute anchor rollers with 3" rollers. The ABI chutes fit perfectly on the CD sprit. One supports a Bruce and the other a Delta.
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Derek Hillen
Re: Seeking advice on ground tackle arrangement for CD36
Greg,
I have an '81 CD 33 and I have 314 feet of 5/16 G4 high test chain in the chain locker. I really think 3/8 might be a bit much. I also have a 45 LB CQR up front and I don't have a windlass. Well, I have two windlasses, my right arm and my left. I use a chain stopper to help haul everything up. Works great and keeps me in shape. I anchor everynight and have never had a problem. Even with all that weight up front I have not noticed any difference in performance. They really are great boats.
Cheers.
Derek
galileo98@hotmail.com
I have an '81 CD 33 and I have 314 feet of 5/16 G4 high test chain in the chain locker. I really think 3/8 might be a bit much. I also have a 45 LB CQR up front and I don't have a windlass. Well, I have two windlasses, my right arm and my left. I use a chain stopper to help haul everything up. Works great and keeps me in shape. I anchor everynight and have never had a problem. Even with all that weight up front I have not noticed any difference in performance. They really are great boats.
Cheers.
Derek
Greg, we don't have a 36 but I can tell you how our 30 is laid out. Maybe some of the info will help you. She has a Simpson Lawrence vertical "Volans" reversing electric windlass with foredeck and cockpit forward and reversing foot switches. It is rigged with a BBB rope/chain gypsy and an integral hawse hole. The system has worked very well. We also have a Simpson Lawrence vertical manual "Anchorman" windlass for the second rode. It is rigged with hi-test. It uses a seperate hawse hole that is not a part of the windlass itself. In my experiences with both designs I prefer the integral hawse hole design. It handles the rode entry to below deck far better with a vertical windlass. Also triple B chain (BBB) is far better, it conforms better by feeding below deck easier and "piles better" if you know what I mean. It's link design allows it to turn and lay better. It's all I would use in the future.We are refitting SHERPA our 79 CD36 for long distance voyaging and i want to install an electric windlass with an all chain rode. She has a 45lb CQR as the primary anchor and used to have a SL manual windlass on the bowsprit which i removed. Over time (I don't know how long it was there) the hause through the bowsprit had caused very serious rust damage to the mild steel stem plate and the backing plate for the bobstay. Any other owners have this type of installation with similar problems?
The question is where to install an electric windlass? The only option I see at this point is a thru deck installation just aft of the staysail deck fitting, around where the forward cleats are located.
Anyone have such an installation, if so did you have to move the cleats? What type of windlass did you install?
The other problem is using all chain rode. I want to go with 3/8 hightest, but at close to a pound and a half a foot, i'm concerned that the present arrangement in the chain locker is inadequate for the 450 some lbs of 300 ft. of chain. Thinking of cutting a piece out of the bottom of the vertical plywood wall seperating the lockers and building some sort of well or box as low as possible right down the center.
Any ideas/advice from CD36 owners who have installed an electric windlass and/or have gone with all chain rode would be dearly appreciated at this point.
Sincerely,
Greg
The rode locker has been divided with a removable partition. I use rope / chain rodes. 85' of chain on each rode. All cutout edges through the deck were sealed with epoxy and a top coat of polyurethane. Backing plates are 1/4" stainless plate fabricated by a local machine shop. I polished them with a bench buffer to enhance their passivity and further protected them with a treatment of Winchinox to prevent future rusting. Windlasses and hardware were bedded with polysulfide. They are located just forward of the staysail boom pedestal on the CD30, one to starboard and one to port. They utilize 1/4" bronze plate atop the bow sprit to prevent chain chafe to the surface of the teak sprit. The bronze plates butt up to twin ABI bronze chute anchor rollers with 3" rollers. The ABI chutes fit perfectly on the CD sprit. One supports a Bruce and the other a Delta.
galileo98@hotmail.com
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matt Cawthorne
Re: Seeking advice on ground tackle arrangement for CD36
Greg,
I have considered the subject for a long time but have not done anything yet due to the amount of work for what I consider an 'ideal' setup. 300+ lb of chain + anchors is too much for the bow in my humble opinion. It is too far above the C.G. and too far forward. My thought was to use the area under the cabin sole just starboard of the head as the anchor locker. To do this would require a pvc pipe running under the v-berth water tank. If you remove the plywood that covers the water tank and remove the tank, you could get an idea as to how much cutting of the liner is required. The bottoms of the anchor lockers are removable so you can get an idea of the overall path that the chain would need to take. PVC pipe bends nicely when heated enough and a single piece could be made to fit. I surmise that the trick is to not have the chain run over any horizontal areas. You will need to cut an access pannel in the cabin sole and provide some sort of flare for the chain to enter through. I think that this would be a fair amount of work, but moving the C.G. of 300 lb of chain down 6 feet and getting it away from the bow could be a big advantage. In addition the locker could be used to store light weight dry goods.
Note: My 36 has only a 43 gallon fuel tank and no water tank in this area so there is quite a large volume that is not used by the mast step. Later models filled this volume with a larger fuel tank.
Matt
mcawthor@bellatlantic.net
I have considered the subject for a long time but have not done anything yet due to the amount of work for what I consider an 'ideal' setup. 300+ lb of chain + anchors is too much for the bow in my humble opinion. It is too far above the C.G. and too far forward. My thought was to use the area under the cabin sole just starboard of the head as the anchor locker. To do this would require a pvc pipe running under the v-berth water tank. If you remove the plywood that covers the water tank and remove the tank, you could get an idea as to how much cutting of the liner is required. The bottoms of the anchor lockers are removable so you can get an idea of the overall path that the chain would need to take. PVC pipe bends nicely when heated enough and a single piece could be made to fit. I surmise that the trick is to not have the chain run over any horizontal areas. You will need to cut an access pannel in the cabin sole and provide some sort of flare for the chain to enter through. I think that this would be a fair amount of work, but moving the C.G. of 300 lb of chain down 6 feet and getting it away from the bow could be a big advantage. In addition the locker could be used to store light weight dry goods.
Note: My 36 has only a 43 gallon fuel tank and no water tank in this area so there is quite a large volume that is not used by the mast step. Later models filled this volume with a larger fuel tank.
Matt
We are refitting SHERPA our 79 CD36 for long distance voyaging and i want to install an electric windlass with an all chain rode. She has a 45lb CQR as the primary anchor and used to have a SL manual windlass on the bowsprit which i removed. Over time (I don't know how long it was there) the hause through the bowsprit had caused very serious rust damage to the mild steel stem plate and the backing plate for the bobstay. Any other owners have this type of installation with similar problems?
The question is where to install an electric windlass? The only option I see at this point is a thru deck installation just aft of the staysail deck fitting, around where the forward cleats are located.
Anyone have such an installation, if so did you have to move the cleats? What type of windlass did you install?
The other problem is using all chain rode. I want to go with 3/8 hightest, but at close to a pound and a half a foot, i'm concerned that the present arrangement in the chain locker is inadequate for the 450 some lbs of 300 ft. of chain. Thinking of cutting a piece out of the bottom of the vertical plywood wall seperating the lockers and building some sort of well or box as low as possible right down the center.
Any ideas/advice from CD36 owners who have installed an electric windlass and/or have gone with all chain rode would be dearly appreciated at this point.
Sincerely,
Greg
mcawthor@bellatlantic.net
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Greg Kozlowski
Re: Seeking advice on ground tackle arrangement for CD36
Thanks for the input, John. Sounds like you've got a pretty good arrangement on your CD30.
From the various responses, I think I'll need to give it some more
thought before doing anything.
Fair winds,
Greg
koz@seijo.ac.jp
From the various responses, I think I'll need to give it some more
thought before doing anything.
Fair winds,
Greg
koz@seijo.ac.jp
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Greg Kozlowski
Re: Seeking advice on ground tackle arrangement for CD36
Hi Matt,
Your comments reflect my sentiments exactly. I, too, think that combined with the weight of the anchors, 300 ft. of chain is simply too much weight sitting way up front and above the waterline.
When i get back to the boat, I'll have a look at the run under the holding tank. My fuel tank is in the port seat locker in the cockpit, so the space under the cabin sole is most likely empty. I get the shivers thinking about having to cut the cabin sole to make an access hatch, though.
With thanks,
Greg
Your comments reflect my sentiments exactly. I, too, think that combined with the weight of the anchors, 300 ft. of chain is simply too much weight sitting way up front and above the waterline.
When i get back to the boat, I'll have a look at the run under the holding tank. My fuel tank is in the port seat locker in the cockpit, so the space under the cabin sole is most likely empty. I get the shivers thinking about having to cut the cabin sole to make an access hatch, though.
With thanks,
Greg