Here's a photo of a sort-of bimini I had made for my CD28. It provides enough shade to keep me from frying while also enabling me to stand behind it, get out easily to the side decks, and operate the winches.
[img]http://newlinkdesigns.com/sequel/images/Bimini007.jpg[/img]
A couple of questions for Cape Dory 28 owners
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Keith Newlin
- Posts: 14
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 22:46
- Location: CD28, #185 Sequel, Wilmington, NC
Last edited by Keith Newlin on Jun 17th, '07, 20:38, edited 1 time in total.
Good idea!
Do the side braces slide up or down or are they fixed?
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Keith Newlin
- Posts: 14
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 22:46
- Location: CD28, #185 Sequel, Wilmington, NC
Similar
[img]http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x105 ... ngNear.jpg[/img]
I've got something similar on my 28 - it zips on the back of the dodger. Visibility is compromised with it in place, tough to check sail shape, or see the water. It also it makes going forward a from the cockpit a pain.
Mine spends most of it's life in my garage.
John
CD28 Tantalus
I've got something similar on my 28 - it zips on the back of the dodger. Visibility is compromised with it in place, tough to check sail shape, or see the water. It also it makes going forward a from the cockpit a pain.
Mine spends most of it's life in my garage.
John
CD28 Tantalus
Keith, did you build that yourself
or have it made? If you had it made, where did you have it done?
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Sea Hunt
- Posts: 1310
- Joined: Jan 29th, '06, 23:14
- Location: Former caretaker of 1977 Cape Dory Typhoon Weekender (Hull #1400) "S/V Tadpole"
Keith:
I would be very interested to know what you did and what you used to get the teak to look like that. It's beautiful
I really like that color.
I saw a Cape Dory a few weeks ago that also had a similar color to the teak.
Fair winds,
I would be very interested to know what you did and what you used to get the teak to look like that. It's beautiful
I really like that color.I saw a Cape Dory a few weeks ago that also had a similar color to the teak.
Fair winds,
Fair winds,
Robert
Sea Hunt a/k/a "The Tadpole Sailor"
CDSOA #1097
Robert
Sea Hunt a/k/a "The Tadpole Sailor"
CDSOA #1097
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Keith Newlin
- Posts: 14
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 22:46
- Location: CD28, #185 Sequel, Wilmington, NC
Rebivna: I made a sketch of what I wanted and asked a local canvasworker to meet me at the boat, where I could show him what I wanted it to do. Our discussion focused mainly on support options, and the pic is the result. It's perfect for my needs--never in the way, and I simply look out from under the side to check sail shape. Definitely has made sailing comfortable in 90+ heat.
Sea Hunt: Getting the teak to look like that just involved some sweat. When I bought the boat in 2003, the varnish was in pretty bad shape, so most of it I scraped off. I used Bristol finish per manufacturer's directions, but I soon realized I didn't want to mess with two-part finishes when some of it began to peel. So I scraped back to bare wood (toe rails and horizontal surfaces mostly) and now use Epiphanes. I put on 2-3 coats each spring and fall. When I see the varnish beginning to break down under the NC sun, it's time for the sandpaper. So far, I've only had to lightly sand and recoat. I spend about half a day in prep, and it takes me about an hour to put on one coat. So, I invest 2 days twice a year in keeping the varnish up. Fortunately, I live only 6 minutes from my marina. The hatch boards, by the way, are coated with Minwax spar varnish ($8/can--I do those at home)--and I can't tell the difference in color. Since they're protected by the dodger, I don't need to recoat very often. For the exposed stuff, the Epiphanes seems to hold up pretty well.
Sea Hunt: Getting the teak to look like that just involved some sweat. When I bought the boat in 2003, the varnish was in pretty bad shape, so most of it I scraped off. I used Bristol finish per manufacturer's directions, but I soon realized I didn't want to mess with two-part finishes when some of it began to peel. So I scraped back to bare wood (toe rails and horizontal surfaces mostly) and now use Epiphanes. I put on 2-3 coats each spring and fall. When I see the varnish beginning to break down under the NC sun, it's time for the sandpaper. So far, I've only had to lightly sand and recoat. I spend about half a day in prep, and it takes me about an hour to put on one coat. So, I invest 2 days twice a year in keeping the varnish up. Fortunately, I live only 6 minutes from my marina. The hatch boards, by the way, are coated with Minwax spar varnish ($8/can--I do those at home)--and I can't tell the difference in color. Since they're protected by the dodger, I don't need to recoat very often. For the exposed stuff, the Epiphanes seems to hold up pretty well.