Pilgrim has been in the water for almost a week and I've noticed a slow but steady weep from one of the seacocks. I think disassembly of the seacock and a dab of Moreys red grease should fix the problem. The question is how to keep the ocean on the outside of the hull while performing this trick. Does anyone have experience or suggestions of how to plug the through hull while I dismantle the seacock? I was thinking a bung and/or plummer's putty or clay ought to seal it up for long enough to do the work.
Most of all the plug needs to be quick and easy. Bear in mind that I'm in Maine where the water temperature is currently 54* - I don't want to be swimming any longer than necessary!
In water seacock maintenance
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Cathy Monaghan
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- Location: 1986 CD32 Realization #3, Rahway, NJ, Raritan Bay -- CDSOA Member since 2000. Greenline 39 Electra
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Cathy Monaghan
- Posts: 3502
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 08:17
- Location: 1986 CD32 Realization #3, Rahway, NJ, Raritan Bay -- CDSOA Member since 2000. Greenline 39 Electra
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Hi Mitch,
Even though you couldn't move the handle, did you notice if the drip stopped? If so, then all you need is more grease. If it didn't stop, then there's something else going on there. If you don't want to haul the boat to regrease the seacock, you'll have to jam a wood bung or something in there -- should be exciting but doable.
Cathy
CD32 Realization, #3
Rahway, NJ
Raritan Bay
Even though you couldn't move the handle, did you notice if the drip stopped? If so, then all you need is more grease. If it didn't stop, then there's something else going on there. If you don't want to haul the boat to regrease the seacock, you'll have to jam a wood bung or something in there -- should be exciting but doable.
Cathy
CD32 Realization, #3
Rahway, NJ
Raritan Bay
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Wayne Grenier
- Posts: 147
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- Location: 1974 CD 28 Meantime
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Matt Cawthorne
- Posts: 355
- Joined: Mar 2nd, '05, 17:33
- Location: CD 36, 1982
Hull # 79
People from Annapolis would not do this, but.....
Mitch,
I read about this technique a few years ago. I have never tried this and can't endorse it but since you ask......
First check your insurance. Cut a foam plug that is longer than the dimension across your seacock barrel by a factor of 2, and tight enough to seal off the intake line of your seacock. Close the seacock, remove the hose on the inside of your boat and jam the foam plug in most of the way to the barrel. Open the seacock and feed the foam through to the through-hull. Take a stick and push the foam all the way past the far edge of the barrel, but not by much. At this point, the amount of water coming in should be minimal. If anything goes wrong, just push the foam all the way out and quickly close the seacock. Remove the barrel and grease. When you are certain that the barrel is re-installed correctly and all locking nuts are properly tightened, open the seacock. Use your stick and push the foam out. Remove the stick and close the seacock. Re-attach the hose on the inside of the boat.
I occasionally remove the speed sensor from my boat when it is in the water to clean it off. It has a much larger opening than the seacock and lots of water pours in. As long as I am prepared with the right plug to stick in the opening, things are not too scary.
Matt
I read about this technique a few years ago. I have never tried this and can't endorse it but since you ask......
First check your insurance. Cut a foam plug that is longer than the dimension across your seacock barrel by a factor of 2, and tight enough to seal off the intake line of your seacock. Close the seacock, remove the hose on the inside of your boat and jam the foam plug in most of the way to the barrel. Open the seacock and feed the foam through to the through-hull. Take a stick and push the foam all the way past the far edge of the barrel, but not by much. At this point, the amount of water coming in should be minimal. If anything goes wrong, just push the foam all the way out and quickly close the seacock. Remove the barrel and grease. When you are certain that the barrel is re-installed correctly and all locking nuts are properly tightened, open the seacock. Use your stick and push the foam out. Remove the stick and close the seacock. Re-attach the hose on the inside of the boat.
I occasionally remove the speed sensor from my boat when it is in the water to clean it off. It has a much larger opening than the seacock and lots of water pours in. As long as I am prepared with the right plug to stick in the opening, things are not too scary.
Matt
No problem
I've done this job before and it's really no problem servicing a seacock while in the water. But if it's your first time, I can empathize with you for your anxiety.
When you prepare to do the job, have everything you need at your side: grease, rags, old towels, wrenches, an 8 inch screwdriver and flashlight.
Just take the nut off the end of the seacock, remove the washer and then remove the barrel with a twisting motion. Some water will come in at this point but not as much as you think. Take a washcloth-sized rag and using the screwdriver, jam the rag in the seacock where the barrel came out. the water will stop. Now you can take the time to either regrease your barrel or lap it if needed.
If your slow at putting the screwdriver with rag into the seacock, you may get a gallon of water in the boat. That's all. If you feel better, have a buddy with you or have a handheld vhf ready to summon help if you need it. But after you do it one time, you'll be comfortable with doing it at any time.
Reassemble the seacock by removing the screwdriver and rag and insert the barrel, washer and nut. Tighten the nut and back off a bit so that the handle can remain verticle without falling down.
If it still leaks after greasing you may need to lap the seacock which you should be able to handle. Just ask one of us on the board.
When you prepare to do the job, have everything you need at your side: grease, rags, old towels, wrenches, an 8 inch screwdriver and flashlight.
Just take the nut off the end of the seacock, remove the washer and then remove the barrel with a twisting motion. Some water will come in at this point but not as much as you think. Take a washcloth-sized rag and using the screwdriver, jam the rag in the seacock where the barrel came out. the water will stop. Now you can take the time to either regrease your barrel or lap it if needed.
If your slow at putting the screwdriver with rag into the seacock, you may get a gallon of water in the boat. That's all. If you feel better, have a buddy with you or have a handheld vhf ready to summon help if you need it. But after you do it one time, you'll be comfortable with doing it at any time.
Reassemble the seacock by removing the screwdriver and rag and insert the barrel, washer and nut. Tighten the nut and back off a bit so that the handle can remain verticle without falling down.
If it still leaks after greasing you may need to lap the seacock which you should be able to handle. Just ask one of us on the board.
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John Vigor
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Rubber plunger
Mitch, if you're really prepared to take a couple of quick swims, a household plumber's plunger should do the trick--the kind you use to unclog the kitchen sink.
I've never tried it myself, but it seems all you need do is stick it on the outside of the hull, over the through-hull, and squeeze it in place.
The advantage of this method is that you can go back aboard, remove the hose from the seacock, and then open the seacock to see if any water is coming in. If it doesn't work, you can close the seacock quickly, and no harm's done.
Cheers,
John V.
I've never tried it myself, but it seems all you need do is stick it on the outside of the hull, over the through-hull, and squeeze it in place.
The advantage of this method is that you can go back aboard, remove the hose from the seacock, and then open the seacock to see if any water is coming in. If it doesn't work, you can close the seacock quickly, and no harm's done.
Cheers,
John V.
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miguel mascaros
- Posts: 44
- Joined: Jan 9th, '07, 13:34
- Location: COMPINCHE 1979 CD30C Hull 119
Centerport Harbor NY
Mitch.....
I do it differently than most folks.....
Look for a soft sandy beach and at one hour past hide tide beach the boat and as tide recedes below the level of the seacock you will have plenty of time til next high tide to do all the seacocks and even clean the bottom, inspect the prop and rudder you will be surprised how much work you can do in about 8 hours while the boat is hi and dry.....
I do it differently than most folks.....
Look for a soft sandy beach and at one hour past hide tide beach the boat and as tide recedes below the level of the seacock you will have plenty of time til next high tide to do all the seacocks and even clean the bottom, inspect the prop and rudder you will be surprised how much work you can do in about 8 hours while the boat is hi and dry.....
Cheers/Mike
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photochief
- Posts: 7
- Joined: May 7th, '07, 17:02
- Location: Bristol 27
Papa's Pride
Little Creek Amphibious Base
Old rag works great
While fishing near Key West in a friends 25 ft fishing boat we had an amusing morning. His "go fast" boat had only a thruhull vice a proper seacock for the head. We arrived on station for a day of fishing and some time after shutting down the engine I heard a gurgling sound. My navy buddy, John, was unconcerned but I began investigating by first opening the inboard engine cover and found the bilge rapidly filling with seawater. My friend was now fully involved and concerned. He started the engine and stood dumbfounded when the fan belt sent a spray of water four feet into the air soon shorting out the engine. He then excitedly reached for the vhf and began hailing the coasties in a panicked voice.
By the time the coasties arrived I had found the rotten hose broken off the thruhull fitting and stuffed a rag into the fitting which stopped 99% of the water, allowing the pump to begin lowering the water level. We were towed back to the harbor and John's boat was inspected and he received a ticket for an out of date fire bottle. I told john that we could have stayed out fishing since we had lots of rags. He was not amused.
Ever since that day I always have suitable plugs for the thruhulls in every boat . I currently use high density foam with a cylindrical shape that can be pushed into the fitting by hand. However, the rag did work well. My attorneys said to add, "Your results may vary".
By the time the coasties arrived I had found the rotten hose broken off the thruhull fitting and stuffed a rag into the fitting which stopped 99% of the water, allowing the pump to begin lowering the water level. We were towed back to the harbor and John's boat was inspected and he received a ticket for an out of date fire bottle. I told john that we could have stayed out fishing since we had lots of rags. He was not amused.
Ever since that day I always have suitable plugs for the thruhulls in every boat . I currently use high density foam with a cylindrical shape that can be pushed into the fitting by hand. However, the rag did work well. My attorneys said to add, "Your results may vary".
PhotoChief
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Ann and David Brownlee
- Posts: 41
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I've used a variation of Ed Haley's method on several occasions. Just have a screwdriver wrapped in rags ready. Remove the hose. Then withdraw the tapered hull-penetrating valve and quickly jam the rag-wrapped scew driver in through the hose channel. Then you can clean and regrease both the tapered valve and its seat. I've never shipped more than a couple of cups of water, and I'm not especially agile.
Ann and David Brownlee
Cape Dory 31 #1 "Windrush"
Havre de Grace, MD
Cape Dory 31 #1 "Windrush"
Havre de Grace, MD
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Dean Abramson
- Posts: 1483
- Joined: Jul 5th, '05, 11:23
- Location: CD 31 "Loda May"
Mitch,
I have never tried this; not sure I would, frankly.
But it seems to me these techiques would only be good for a quick greasing, not lapping. I would not want to lap the barrel outside of the seacock it fits into, as that would risk getting it out of round.
I like John's idea with the plunger. Never tried that either, but it sounds like a great solution. In that scenario, you actually might even have time to lap the seacock in, wipe both parts clean, and then grease. But I would not use lapping compound if you are not going to be able to then clean the compound off both surfaces well, before greasing and re-assembly.
I would want to have a plan for exactly where you are going to securely place the nuts and washer, before you start. Dropping one of those into the bilge will exponentially enhance the thrill factor.
Just IMHO.
Dean
I have never tried this; not sure I would, frankly.
But it seems to me these techiques would only be good for a quick greasing, not lapping. I would not want to lap the barrel outside of the seacock it fits into, as that would risk getting it out of round.
I like John's idea with the plunger. Never tried that either, but it sounds like a great solution. In that scenario, you actually might even have time to lap the seacock in, wipe both parts clean, and then grease. But I would not use lapping compound if you are not going to be able to then clean the compound off both surfaces well, before greasing and re-assembly.
I would want to have a plan for exactly where you are going to securely place the nuts and washer, before you start. Dropping one of those into the bilge will exponentially enhance the thrill factor.
Just IMHO.
Dean
Dean Abramson
Cape Dory 31 "Loda May"
Falmouth, Maine
Cape Dory 31 "Loda May"
Falmouth, Maine
Well the deed is done and I must say it was quite anticlimactic. I was expecting gushing water and spray soaking the cabin ceiling but the whole thing went very smoothly. I pulled it out, greased it, and reinstalled without even taking the hose off the seacock. Just a few pints of water and an easy cleanup. Pilgrim is now leak free.
My mate was a little more skeptical. As I was preparing to remove the plug she rolled her pants up to the knees and asked if I wanted a life jacket!
Thanks for all the advice and moral support. As usual, it was a much easier job than I made it out to be. I just jammed a rag in the hole and everything was fine.
- Mitch
My mate was a little more skeptical. As I was preparing to remove the plug she rolled her pants up to the knees and asked if I wanted a life jacket!
Thanks for all the advice and moral support. As usual, it was a much easier job than I made it out to be. I just jammed a rag in the hole and everything was fine.
- Mitch