Typhoon shroud tension
Moderator: Jim Walsh
Typhoon shroud tension
First time launching typhoon. Any thoughts on shroud tension. I've been told not to make them too tight due to downward force on cabin top. I am not sure what is too tight. Thanks Tom
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Oswego John
- Posts: 3535
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 20:42
- Location: '66 Typhoon "Grace", Hull # 42, Schooner "Ontario", CD 85D Hull #1
TYPHOON SHROUD TENSION
Tom,
I tend to agree with the advice that has been given to you. But that's just my personal opinion. There are lots of other opinions on the subject.
A lot depends on whether your mast is what is called keel based, or is it tabernacle mounted on the cuddy roof.
Socking down too much on the shrouds and stays can, and will, cause permanent deflection on the cuddy roof of a tabernacle mounted mast. Overtightening the rigging can cause other problems down the road.
Do you have any deflection in your roof?. A simple test is to lay a short 2"x4" or other straight edge crossways across the cabin roof, close to the base of the mast. If the straight edge rocks from side to side, you're in good shape.. If the 2"x4" lays flat, or there's a concave dip under it, you have what is called compression. Fixing the compression should be high on your priority list.
There are some who don't realize that with compression, comes a host of other problems. Notably, compression allows the butt of the mast to set lower to the hull than it normally would. This makes the original settings of the shrouds and stays in their respective turnbuckles useless. It creates a nasty cycle. You now have to make up extra on the turnbuckles to remove slack in the rigging. By resetting the turnbuckles tighter, the butt of the mast is driven deeper into the roof line. See where this is going?
Color me old fashioned, if you will. I don't race, I don't compete in any way. I don't use gauges of any sort. I'm firm but gentle when I set up rigging. I don't tweak to the Nth degree or strain the rigging and it's components. No need to, for me.
When I set up my rigging, I try to maintain the original mast rake. It has to be perfectly straight up, perpendicular to the hull. It must be in column, with no warps or bends.
When I adjust the turnbuckles, fully aware of the conditions previously mentioned, I make them hand tight. I fashioned a horshoe shaped fork that I insert through both the eyes of the turnbuckle being tightened. This helps me keep them from turning when I make up on the turnbuckle frame.
I use no tools, bars or levers other than the fork when I make up the turnbuckles. I make them up handtight. Handtight is just what the term implies. When you can't turn the turnbuckle any more unless you use a tool, then it's handtight. Now maybe my body strength might be stronger than a ladies, or less than some gorillas that I know. So use common sense.
When tuned this way, when on a reach, the windward shrouds will be tighter than originally set up. Consequentially, the lee shrouds will appear to seem a little sloppy.
Tom, there are volumes of info in the archives in regard to all aspects of rig tuning. I advise you to read up on how others do their setting up.
Welcome to CD world,
O J
I tend to agree with the advice that has been given to you. But that's just my personal opinion. There are lots of other opinions on the subject.
A lot depends on whether your mast is what is called keel based, or is it tabernacle mounted on the cuddy roof.
Socking down too much on the shrouds and stays can, and will, cause permanent deflection on the cuddy roof of a tabernacle mounted mast. Overtightening the rigging can cause other problems down the road.
Do you have any deflection in your roof?. A simple test is to lay a short 2"x4" or other straight edge crossways across the cabin roof, close to the base of the mast. If the straight edge rocks from side to side, you're in good shape.. If the 2"x4" lays flat, or there's a concave dip under it, you have what is called compression. Fixing the compression should be high on your priority list.
There are some who don't realize that with compression, comes a host of other problems. Notably, compression allows the butt of the mast to set lower to the hull than it normally would. This makes the original settings of the shrouds and stays in their respective turnbuckles useless. It creates a nasty cycle. You now have to make up extra on the turnbuckles to remove slack in the rigging. By resetting the turnbuckles tighter, the butt of the mast is driven deeper into the roof line. See where this is going?
Color me old fashioned, if you will. I don't race, I don't compete in any way. I don't use gauges of any sort. I'm firm but gentle when I set up rigging. I don't tweak to the Nth degree or strain the rigging and it's components. No need to, for me.
When I set up my rigging, I try to maintain the original mast rake. It has to be perfectly straight up, perpendicular to the hull. It must be in column, with no warps or bends.
When I adjust the turnbuckles, fully aware of the conditions previously mentioned, I make them hand tight. I fashioned a horshoe shaped fork that I insert through both the eyes of the turnbuckle being tightened. This helps me keep them from turning when I make up on the turnbuckle frame.
I use no tools, bars or levers other than the fork when I make up the turnbuckles. I make them up handtight. Handtight is just what the term implies. When you can't turn the turnbuckle any more unless you use a tool, then it's handtight. Now maybe my body strength might be stronger than a ladies, or less than some gorillas that I know. So use common sense.
When tuned this way, when on a reach, the windward shrouds will be tighter than originally set up. Consequentially, the lee shrouds will appear to seem a little sloppy.
Tom, there are volumes of info in the archives in regard to all aspects of rig tuning. I advise you to read up on how others do their setting up.
Welcome to CD world,
O J
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boom2it
- Posts: 74
- Joined: Mar 5th, '07, 17:12
- Location: "Gael Force"
1983 CD Typhoon
#1910
City Island, NY
Altontom,
here is a link to the manual, some great information. Page 37 to be more specific, should answer your questions about standing rigging.
http://www.capedory.org/manuals/Ty-Ty%2 ... 30-30K.pdf
I too am about to rig my CD Typhoon for the first time. Hand tightening is the way to go. All turnbuckles should measure 12 1/4".
pretty straight forward.
Good luck
here is a link to the manual, some great information. Page 37 to be more specific, should answer your questions about standing rigging.
http://www.capedory.org/manuals/Ty-Ty%2 ... 30-30K.pdf
I too am about to rig my CD Typhoon for the first time. Hand tightening is the way to go. All turnbuckles should measure 12 1/4".
pretty straight forward.
Good luck