Leaning Against Teaqua?

[Bob Owens]

Those of you who have applied Teaqua: If Teaqua is applied to the cockpit coamings or other places a person might contact, are you certain that (once properly dried), no oil will come off on clothes if it is leaned against for a while? Thanks.
Bob

[bhartley]

I have Teaqua on a tabletop and have had no problems at all with it transfering to anything placed on the tables (including elbows!). We have previously used standard teak oil on our SS23 and have had a problem with sunscreen absorbing INTO the teak.

The Teaqua on our tabletop (and soon to be on our 25D) does not have an oily surface at all. It has a very matte finish to it.

Hope that helps a little.

Bly

[rtbates]

Absolutely, positively sure. Just be sure to follow the directions and wipe off all excess product. We have it on teak benches that we sit on and no problem.

[mahalocd36]

Hi,

I don't know if we are the only ones having this problem, but we are not really impressed with Teaqua's durability. Although it is fine in places without contact - like the dorade boxes for instance, we find it's not really working out in the cockpit. We haven't even launched the boat yet! It's waxy and tacky and soft and scratches up really easily. Wait until we get the dog aboard - forget about it.

Next year we are going to do something different, at least in the cockpit.

I will say it's easy to apply and clean up, but that's about it. It does look okay, just don't touch it.

This may be an application issue, I don't know. One coat was applied in the fall, one coat in the spring. Followed the directions.

Melissa

[rtbates]

Hi,

I don't know if we are the only ones having this problem, but we are not really impressed with Teaqua's durability. Although it is fine in places without contact - like the dorade boxes for instance, we find it's not really working out in the cockpit. We haven't even launched the boat yet! It's waxy and tacky and soft and scratches up really easily. Wait until we get the dog aboard - forget about it.

Next year we are going to do something different, at least in the cockpit.

I will say it's easy to apply and clean up, but that's about it. It does look okay, just don't touch it.

This may be an application issue, I don't know. One coat was applied in the fall, one coat in the spring. Followed the directions.

Melissa

Sounds like you didn't wipe off ALL the excess.

[Clay Stalker]

I have used some Teaqua in a few places on Yankee Lady. What I found was, it is very easy to apply, soaks in nicely, takes a very long time to completely dry, seems to be durable, but is darker than I like. I think you need to make sure you get the teak sanded right down and bleach it....otherwise, the finish is too dark for me. I suspect it's great on brand new teak, but on older stuff I find it to be darker than I like. The owner, Sam, is a nice guy and very responsive to questions and comments....a nice change in this business. However, I don't like the finish enough to use it all over Yankee Lady I do think it is durable...but on older teak....I don't know, might just be me.... In any event, after going through Armada, varnish, Cetol, various oils, and Teaqua, I have decided to retreat right back to good old varnish, Interlux Schooner. It goes on relatively easy, looks great even when tired, and comes off easy with a heat gun. If I had acres of teak (which I did on my previous boat) I would not go this way....but with the moderate amount of teak on Yankee Lady, I'm all the way back to varnish.

[s-dupuis]

I used Star-Brite, Premium Golden Teak oil, reccommended by Carter Brey. (see his web site)
After a complete sanding I applied 2 coats a couple days apart. It started off as a rich dark color but lightened after a few days, thus the second coat. The second coat also lightened some but still beads up water and looks much better than the untreated teak.
The wood soaked up the stuff like no tomorrow.
No waxy surface or residue either.

As much as I love the look of a glossy varnished finish I'd prefer not to be a slave to keeping the brightwork in top condition.

Another nice thing about teak oil is that you can put it on without worrying about dust and debris adhereing to the surface as with varnishes & urethanes.

Steve

[Joe CD MS 300]

I have used Teaqua in a few applications: mahogany seats in my Dyer and on teak hatches and a transom seat. It dosen't lay on thick at all so if you are looking for something with a good wearing surface that might be exposed to hardware or constant rubbing it probable won't work in that situation. It seems to hold up fine when used on a seating surface. It would probably work fine on coamings or toe rails

As far as the preparation, it does tend to make any grey teak very dark. Even if you sand well you should probably use a bleach to get at any remaining grey below the sanded surface. If the surface is prepped well it looks very good and subsequent applications are just a wipe on wipe off process.

Once dry it is not oily at all. It has the feel of a mate polyurethane. From its milky look in the can I would guess that it has some similarities to the new water based polyurethanes.

[Carter Brey]

I used Star-Brite, Premium Golden Teak oil, reccommended by Carter Brey.

Steve

Be aware, though, that any wood treated with tung oil and exposed to UV will start to look tired and dark after a month or so; reapplication is de rigueur if you want to keep the finish looking fresh.

CB

[s-dupuis]

Occasionally there are days of calm that are perfect for such maintenance tasks. The application of teak oil requires little more than a brush and a rag.
But if there is a hint of a breeze, forget it. Life (and the sailing season) is too short to be doing boat maintenance while there is a potential to be out on the water.

Carter: Thanks for the tip on Star-Brite oil. It does the two things I was most concerned about - protects the teak with the least amount of effort while enhancing the beauty of the wood.

Man, it is good (great) to be on the water again!

Steve