Getting ready to strip some varnish and wondered what people recommend for Heat Guns. I have the Brightwork book and Rebecca Wittman recommends an Easy Gun, but I couldnt find a website and the number I had is out of service for Easy Time Refinishing Products. Therefore, I am not sure what a good one would be... As always there are many products and opinions, so any help would be greaty appreciated.
Regards,
K Dreese
Heat Gun Recommendations??
Moderator: Jim Walsh
Heat Gun Recommendations??
Last edited by KDreese on Apr 16th, '07, 18:58, edited 1 time in total.
"Life begins at 2 knots."
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Oswego John
- Posts: 3535
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 20:42
- Location: '66 Typhoon "Grace", Hull # 42, Schooner "Ontario", CD 85D Hull #1
Heat Gun
Hi K,
It's just my personal opinion, but I don't think that you have to find any particular brand of heat gun to do any certain job.
A heat gun just applies heat to whatever it is pointed at. You can spend megabucks for a gun or buy one for under $10.00 at Harbor Freight. I guess that it's fair to state that, again, you get what you pay for.
You might consider buying a heat gun with variable heat ranges. However, the heat range can also be controlled some by the distance you hold the gun away from the work.
Depending on the wattage, sometimes a hair dryer can provide the necessary heat for the job at hand.
One of my favorite guns, (read, the only one that I can find at the present time) is a Craftsman from Sears. It's probably more than fifteen years old and still does the job.
When removing varnish, etc., the idea is to just soften the finish enough to be scraped off. Too high a heat or concentrating the heat in one spot for too long a time isn't a good idea. Keep the heat moving around. Warm heat will soften the finish. Too high a heat will drive paint and other finishes deep into the wood cells, especially oil or alkyd based paints.
If you have a variable heat range on the gun, start low and work the heat up to what is necessary. If you are softening glazing compound, too much heat in one spot, or not spreading the heat around the general area can crack the port glass.
Just some of my thoughts on the subject.
Good luck,
O J
It's just my personal opinion, but I don't think that you have to find any particular brand of heat gun to do any certain job.
A heat gun just applies heat to whatever it is pointed at. You can spend megabucks for a gun or buy one for under $10.00 at Harbor Freight. I guess that it's fair to state that, again, you get what you pay for.
You might consider buying a heat gun with variable heat ranges. However, the heat range can also be controlled some by the distance you hold the gun away from the work.
Depending on the wattage, sometimes a hair dryer can provide the necessary heat for the job at hand.
One of my favorite guns, (read, the only one that I can find at the present time) is a Craftsman from Sears. It's probably more than fifteen years old and still does the job.
When removing varnish, etc., the idea is to just soften the finish enough to be scraped off. Too high a heat or concentrating the heat in one spot for too long a time isn't a good idea. Keep the heat moving around. Warm heat will soften the finish. Too high a heat will drive paint and other finishes deep into the wood cells, especially oil or alkyd based paints.
If you have a variable heat range on the gun, start low and work the heat up to what is necessary. If you are softening glazing compound, too much heat in one spot, or not spreading the heat around the general area can crack the port glass.
Just some of my thoughts on the subject.
Good luck,
O J
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Oswego John
- Posts: 3535
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 20:42
- Location: '66 Typhoon "Grace", Hull # 42, Schooner "Ontario", CD 85D Hull #1
Milwaukee Tools
Hi Russell,
I can't say enough good things about Milwaukee tools. I have a Milwaukee, keyed chuck, 1/2" drill that just won't quit. I've been using it steadily for so long, I can't remember when I first got it.
Heavy duty drills like that are industrial rated. The thrust bearings can take an awful lot of punishment. The only thing that wore out was the electrical cord.
Same thing for their saw-zall and port-a-bandsaw. Totally nuclear proof. Milwaukee is synonymous with quality. I imagine their heat gun is a beauty, too.
Good cruising,
O J
I can't say enough good things about Milwaukee tools. I have a Milwaukee, keyed chuck, 1/2" drill that just won't quit. I've been using it steadily for so long, I can't remember when I first got it.
Heavy duty drills like that are industrial rated. The thrust bearings can take an awful lot of punishment. The only thing that wore out was the electrical cord.
Same thing for their saw-zall and port-a-bandsaw. Totally nuclear proof. Milwaukee is synonymous with quality. I imagine their heat gun is a beauty, too.
Good cruising,
O J
OJ, this heat gun is actually my first experience with Milwalkee tools, I have always bought Dewalt, Makita(the higher end of both of these lines) and Fein(for the limited tools they make, they are unparalleled) power tools , but I was aware of Milwalkees reputation and they were one of the only professional quality powertool makers who offered a heatgun, so I chose theirs and am pleased. I learned awhile back that in the long run you lose money buying inexpensive powertools!
Anyways, this heat gun is a real tool, most heat guns you will find are not more then glorified hair driers (and in many cases the hair dryer might be a better option!).
Anyways, this heat gun is a real tool, most heat guns you will find are not more then glorified hair driers (and in many cases the hair dryer might be a better option!).
Russell
s/v (yet to be named) Tayana 42CC
s/v Lady Pauline Cape Dory 36 #117 (for sale)
s/v (yet to be named) Tayana 42CC
s/v Lady Pauline Cape Dory 36 #117 (for sale)
Ditto on the Milwaukee recommendation. Used to have one until it fell overboard several years ago. Best heat gun I ever used and would not hesitate to highly recommend one.
Like Oswego, I have been using a Craftsman for a couple years now, the pro version made by AEG I believe. A decent tool, has never let me down but the Milwaukee was a higherr quality tool. When it comes time to replace I will go back with Milwaukee again. My Craftsman was a purchase of convenience at the time. FWIW
Like Oswego, I have been using a Craftsman for a couple years now, the pro version made by AEG I believe. A decent tool, has never let me down but the Milwaukee was a higherr quality tool. When it comes time to replace I will go back with Milwaukee again. My Craftsman was a purchase of convenience at the time. FWIW
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Bill Sonntag
- Posts: 28
- Joined: Apr 25th, '05, 20:44
- Location: Owner: "Surprise" Cape Dory 31 Hull No. 30
Here is one recommendation resulting from stripping all exterior teak last season (right about this time of year in fact). Make sure you use or buy heat gun with a finger trigger. I bought a new one to add to my arsenal last year and because it did not have a trigger, it took the other hand to turn it off and on which meant I had to put down the scraper or putty knife. I reverted to the old one with the trigger only using the new one where I had long runs to heat up on the coamings.
Why the putty knife? Absolutely indispensable for protecting the surrounding fiberglass and in some spots to use to direct the heat. Its one way to work around corners with a heat gun aiming at the putty knife blade deflecting the heat to the teak. Use about a three inch wide shiny one with a handle that can stand up to the heat.
Happy re-finishing!
Bill Sonntag
Surprise
CD 31
Why the putty knife? Absolutely indispensable for protecting the surrounding fiberglass and in some spots to use to direct the heat. Its one way to work around corners with a heat gun aiming at the putty knife blade deflecting the heat to the teak. Use about a three inch wide shiny one with a handle that can stand up to the heat.
Happy re-finishing!
Bill Sonntag
Surprise
CD 31