The Cape Dory Board

I use a Nissan 3.5hp 2-stroke on the Chesapeake, and it is more than adequate for getting into and out of all the little inlets and creeks around here. I wish I could say it was reliable, though...

I went went both sides of the hull to avoid the motor issue:

Skeep--can't wait until I can do the same. Only 25-30 more years!!

I've had water come over the stern once, but that was out in the middle of the Chesapeake with strong south winds, meaning the waves had a long way to build up and were pretty steep (and close together). I was on a very broad reach and just happened to catch one the wrong way or something--not much ...

Yep, I've got the same one. It is great for a boat this size, and doesn't take up any space on the bulkhead.

In my amateur opinion, if there's any piece of deck hardware I'd want through-bolted it would be the mast step. Seems like the consequences of that coming loose would be pretty bad, plus without through-bolts you could not have a backing plate on the inside. It seems like it would be better to sprea...

Thanks guys. I had wondered about the chain size so it sounds like that may be something to look at. And Steve, I have thought about springing for one of the new-generation anchors like Rocna, and maybe that would be the most significant change I could make. I have never been anchored during a Chesa...

That makes sense to me, but I haven't been able to find bronze key stock anywhere online. Seems like the choices are generally mild steel, brass, and very occasionally stainless. I think for now I will probably stick with the brass and Tef-Gel arrangement, and check on it every year until I have a b...

My current "anchoring setup" (if you can call it that on a Typhoon) consists of a Danforth-style anchor (not sure what size since it came with the boat) with 19 feet of chain (I believe 5/16") and 150 feet of 3-strand nylon rode. Since I have begun doing multi-day trips around the mid...

Russell--when you repaint your deck do you remove all the hardware and everything, or just mask it all off and paint around it? I know I'm going to have to do this at some point in the future, although hopefully I can get another 4-5 years out of what's on there now. When I painted it the first time...

So to follow up on this, I wrestled the cap off the rudder post yesterday and took another look at the keyway. For anyone who may need to know in the future, the key size on a Typhoon is 3/16" square by about 1 1/4" long, although I did have to file down one side slightly to get it to fit ...

The toe and rub rails are definitely easier on the hard, but for everything in and around the cockpit (already the most picky/tedious parts) it doesn't really make that much difference in my experience. I have done it both on the hard and in the water, and really the only difference is you don't hav...

I repainted mine about 2 years ago using good ol' Brightsides, and it turned out really well. It was pretty easy to roll and tip as long as you pay attention to what the weather is doing, and it's not hard to get a nice glossy finish. People kept asking me if it was Awlgrip. I have no idea how it's ...

Skeep--I'm curious whether your outboard bracket has been modified at all to get a "normal shaft" low enough to the water? My old Nissan 3.5hp long shaft seems just about right length-wise, but if it was 5 inches shorter I'm pretty sure it would barely be in the water. It would be nice if ...

I single-hand almost all the time in the same area, and when I'm too lazy to deal with both sails what I generally end up doing is headsail-only for lighter winds--say less than 10kts--and main-only for anything higher. Basically, the trade off is the headsail is easier to manage since you don't hav...