White Sanit hose
Moderator: Jim Walsh
White Sanit hose
Many posts on this board have warned of the danger of a hose breaking and flooding the boat. So I decided to replace the hoses in our head before something terrible happened. And yes, the wire reinforcement inside the black hoses was rusting and had actually split the outside of the hose open in a few places. I bought the white sanit hose at West basically because it looks a lot nicer and more modern than the black stuff, even though several posts advise that the white will pass odors sooner than the black. Here's the problem ... I bought the 3/4" hose to connect the intake seacock to the toilet. I can't force the end of the hose over the ridge on the nipple of the seacock. I think 3/4" is the right size, but the white hose is so stiff that I can't work it onto the seacock. I tried greasing it with Head Lube. I also tried opening up the end of the hose with a wooden safety plug. This white stuff just doesn't have any give the way rubber or reinforced fabric does. The only thing I can think of is to heat it up a little with a heat lamp. Anyone have any ideas? I'm really getting fed up .. missing some beautiful sailing days.
Chris Scheck
RAGTIME CD33
Newport
cscheck@aol.com
Chris Scheck
RAGTIME CD33
Newport
cscheck@aol.com
Re: White Sanit hose
Chris,Chris Scheck wrote: Many posts on this board have warned of the danger of a hose breaking and flooding the boat. So I decided to replace the hoses in our head before something terrible happened. And yes, the wire reinforcement inside the black hoses was rusting and had actually split the outside of the hose open in a few places. I bought the white sanit hose at West basically because it looks a lot nicer and more modern than the black stuff, even though several posts advise that the white will pass odors sooner than the black. Here's the problem ... I bought the 3/4" hose to connect the intake seacock to the toilet. I can't force the end of the hose over the ridge on the nipple of the seacock. I think 3/4" is the right size, but the white hose is so stiff that I can't work it onto the seacock. I tried greasing it with Head Lube. I also tried opening up the end of the hose with a wooden safety plug. This white stuff just doesn't have any give the way rubber or reinforced fabric does. The only thing I can think of is to heat it up a little with a heat lamp. Anyone have any ideas? I'm really getting fed up .. missing some beautiful sailing days.
Chris Scheck
RAGTIME CD33
Newport
I have installed this white hose you describe on my previous Cape Dory and the only way to do it was to wear gloves, heat it up with a paint stripping heat gun until somewhat soft, then quickly install over the fitting before it cools. It is definitely hard to work with but I never had a problem with it later. I do not think a hair dryer would ever be hot enough and a heat lamp would be difficult to handle.
I am almost certain to remove it,it would have to be cut off the fitting if you ever wanted to change it! Good luck.
Dennis Robinett
Cape Dory 36, Nepenthe
Shennecossett Yacht Club
Groton, CT
CDSailor@aol.com
Re: White Sanit hose
Man do I remember this drill. You are on the right track. I used the old tapered plug and hammer method and it worked fine. Use a large plug, jam it in the end and whale away.
scout@chesapeake.net
scout@chesapeake.net
Re: White Sanit hose
If you are on a mooring or don't have access to an eletrical source you can use boiling water, but the heat gun makes quick work of it.
pedbed@aol.com
pedbed@aol.com
Re: White Sanit hose
Chris,
It's a stiff bugger, that's for certain, but once installed you are done for many years. I used a hair dryer on the hose..for about 5 minutes, rotating it around and inside the tube. Then apply that grease to the barbed end and shove it on. Don't forget the hose clamp, as superfluous as it seems.
If replacing the outlet hose to the holding tank, I was forced to deal with a right angle turn, so besides cutting out a section of the wet locker inner wall, I also added a 90 degree barbed hose fitting to the hose, which made the problem less so. I have experienced no problems with this fitting in the hose at all, so don't be afraid to use it if needed.
Cheers,
Larry DeMers
Cd30
demers@sgi.com
It's a stiff bugger, that's for certain, but once installed you are done for many years. I used a hair dryer on the hose..for about 5 minutes, rotating it around and inside the tube. Then apply that grease to the barbed end and shove it on. Don't forget the hose clamp, as superfluous as it seems.
If replacing the outlet hose to the holding tank, I was forced to deal with a right angle turn, so besides cutting out a section of the wet locker inner wall, I also added a 90 degree barbed hose fitting to the hose, which made the problem less so. I have experienced no problems with this fitting in the hose at all, so don't be afraid to use it if needed.
Cheers,
Larry DeMers
Cd30
Chris Scheck wrote: Many posts on this board have warned of the danger of a hose breaking and flooding the boat. So I decided to replace the hoses in our head before something terrible happened. And yes, the wire reinforcement inside the black hoses was rusting and had actually split the outside of the hose open in a few places. I bought the white sanit hose at West basically because it looks a lot nicer and more modern than the black stuff, even though several posts advise that the white will pass odors sooner than the black. Here's the problem ... I bought the 3/4" hose to connect the intake seacock to the toilet. I can't force the end of the hose over the ridge on the nipple of the seacock. I think 3/4" is the right size, but the white hose is so stiff that I can't work it onto the seacock. I tried greasing it with Head Lube. I also tried opening up the end of the hose with a wooden safety plug. This white stuff just doesn't have any give the way rubber or reinforced fabric does. The only thing I can think of is to heat it up a little with a heat lamp. Anyone have any ideas? I'm really getting fed up .. missing some beautiful sailing days.
Chris Scheck
RAGTIME CD33
Newport
demers@sgi.com
Re: White Sanit hose -use the right connectors
Chris:
Heat and a little lube are in fact the way to go. Another important trick (which won't help with the seacock but will elsewhere) is to use the nylon or marelon hose fittings that are designed to work with the hose - they actually fit, and can make the job much more doable.
Duncan Maio
s/v Remedy
CD27 #37
Bristol, RI
mail@mysticmarine.net
Heat and a little lube are in fact the way to go. Another important trick (which won't help with the seacock but will elsewhere) is to use the nylon or marelon hose fittings that are designed to work with the hose - they actually fit, and can make the job much more doable.
Duncan Maio
s/v Remedy
CD27 #37
Bristol, RI
mail@mysticmarine.net
Re: White Sanit hose
Try a bucket of boiling water - just stick the end of the hose in the water, let it heat up, and pop it on!
regards, Fred
regards, Fred
Re: White Sanit hose -use the right connectors
Thanks for all the advice I've gotten on this white hose business. What do you mean by "right hose connectors" ... are there fittings for plumbing this stuff into a tank? Is Marelon a tradename like Nylon? Anybody know how to cut this hose off nice and square? I was cutting it with a plain blade and it was going nice and smooth and then the blade seemed to hit some fabric embedded in the plastic and I ended up making a mess of the cut... all crooked. Is there a trick to it? I suppose you could cut it on a bench saw to get a nice neat end.
cscheck@aol.com
cscheck@aol.com
Re: White Sanit hose -use the right connectors
I just used a hacksaw and cut it on site. That said, I won't use this stuff again. I'll use the premium sanitation hose (Trident green stripe) next time. It's made to fit bronze tailpieces, doesn't let stinky odors out, and is just easier to work with. Yeah, it may cost a LITTLE more, but all us boat owners ('scuse me - YACHT owners) are rich! Right, MR. Taxman/politician?Chris Scheck wrote: Thanks for all the advice I've gotten on this white hose business. What do you mean by "right hose connectors" ... are there fittings for plumbing this stuff into a tank? Is Marelon a tradename like Nylon? Anybody know how to cut this hose off nice and square? I was cutting it with a plain blade and it was going nice and smooth and then the blade seemed to hit some fabric embedded in the plastic and I ended up making a mess of the cut... all crooked. Is there a trick to it? I suppose you could cut it on a bench saw to get a nice neat end.
captrahill@comcast.net
Re: White Sanit hose -use the right connectors
I second the hacksaw - worked fine for me. Just remember to bring a piece of scrap wood to cut on. As for connectors, I just hose calmped the hose onto the fitting already on the holding tank on the one end and the other end to the y-valve attached to the head. And cable ties along the length, to make sure it doesn't go anywhere.Richard Hill wrote:Chris Scheck wrote: Thanks for all the advice I've gotten on this white hose business. What do you mean by "right hose connectors" ... are there fittings for plumbing this stuff into a tank? Is Marelon a tradename like Nylon? Anybody know how to cut this hose off nice and square? I was cutting it with a plain blade and it was going nice and smooth and then the blade seemed to hit some fabric embedded in the plastic and I ended up making a mess of the cut... all crooked. Is there a trick to it? I suppose you could cut it on a bench saw to get a nice neat end.
I just used a hacksaw and cut it on site. That said, I won't use this stuff again. I'll use the premium sanitation hose (Trident green stripe) next time. It's made to fit bronze tailpieces, doesn't let stinky odors out, and is just easier to work with. Yeah, it may cost a LITTLE more, but all us boat owners ('scuse me - YACHT owners) are rich! Right, MR. Taxman/politician?
Regards, Fred P.
Re: White Sanit hose -use the right connectors
Chris,
I used a circular cutting knife made for cutting tubing like PVC. It is a cheapie, available at a hardware store for a few bucks. It is simpl;y put around the hose, and the handles squeezed, while it cuts through the material. A sharp knife rolled around the tubing over and over would also work.
Larry DeMers
demers@sgi.com
I used a circular cutting knife made for cutting tubing like PVC. It is a cheapie, available at a hardware store for a few bucks. It is simpl;y put around the hose, and the handles squeezed, while it cuts through the material. A sharp knife rolled around the tubing over and over would also work.
Larry DeMers
Chris Scheck wrote: Thanks for all the advice I've gotten on this white hose business. What do you mean by "right hose connectors" ... are there fittings for plumbing this stuff into a tank? Is Marelon a tradename like Nylon? Anybody know how to cut this hose off nice and square? I was cutting it with a plain blade and it was going nice and smooth and then the blade seemed to hit some fabric embedded in the plastic and I ended up making a mess of the cut... all crooked. Is there a trick to it? I suppose you could cut it on a bench saw to get a nice neat end.
demers@sgi.com
Re: White Sanit hose
Hi Chris,
This is easy stuff to work with if you know the tricks. First, cutting with a radial arm saw will give you a clean, square end -- just make sure the hose is firmly against the backstop before the sawblade touches it. Cut slowly with a sharp blade.
As for installation, soak the end you want to go over a fitting in very hot water (I boil water on the stove, take the pan to the job site, hold the end in the water for awhile (varies with hose diameter - about a minute for the 1-1/2 " stuff), and it slips easily into place. Permatex sealant makes this a permanent, leakproof connection (since you must cut it off anyway if you ever replace it). I put hose clamps on while the hose is still hot, too.
Try this method. It's easy and hassle-free.
Andy Denmark
CD-27 "Rhiannon"
Oriental, NC
trekker@coastalnet.com
This is easy stuff to work with if you know the tricks. First, cutting with a radial arm saw will give you a clean, square end -- just make sure the hose is firmly against the backstop before the sawblade touches it. Cut slowly with a sharp blade.
As for installation, soak the end you want to go over a fitting in very hot water (I boil water on the stove, take the pan to the job site, hold the end in the water for awhile (varies with hose diameter - about a minute for the 1-1/2 " stuff), and it slips easily into place. Permatex sealant makes this a permanent, leakproof connection (since you must cut it off anyway if you ever replace it). I put hose clamps on while the hose is still hot, too.
Try this method. It's easy and hassle-free.
Andy Denmark
CD-27 "Rhiannon"
Oriental, NC
trekker@coastalnet.com