New CD 25 owner.

[Linda Hackney]

This is my second try at this.. please answer via my email. I am
a new owner of a CD 25 and am having a big problem getting the old
outboard motor out of the well.. can I enlarge the well? a new
motor will have to go in and it is doubtful if there is enough
room I am looking for a 7-10hp.. any advice appreciated..
second issue.. a through the hull fitting on the port aft side
fairly back.. with a plastic tube clamped to it.. about 3 feet of
tube.. the fitting looks tobe below the water line.. what is it?
and if any one can send me a buyers manual .. it would be a huge
help... as the boat has been neglected for a long time.. it is
a 73 (76?) Number 91.. Thank you for any help.. Linda



Sassy46@dotnet.com

[Harry Cline]

Linda,
Don't forget to look around the web since much information already exists. For example the owners manuals are available on the web site that hosts this discussion board at: http://www.toolworks.com/capedory/ccdoinfo.htm

I don't think enlarging the motor well should be necessary as modern engines are more compact than ever. What is the problem you are having with getting the old motor out?

This is my second try at this.. please answer via my email. I am
a new owner of a CD 25 and am having a big problem getting the old
outboard motor out of the well.. can I enlarge the well? a new
motor will have to go in and it is doubtful if there is enough
room I am looking for a 7-10hp.. any advice appreciated..
second issue.. a through the hull fitting on the port aft side
fairly back.. with a plastic tube clamped to it.. about 3 feet of
tube.. the fitting looks tobe below the water line.. what is it?
and if any one can send me a buyers manual .. it would be a huge
help... as the boat has been neglected for a long time.. it is
a 73 (76?) Number 91.. Thank you for any help.. Linda

@hcline@nc.rr.com

[JimL]

Good evening, Linda. I have #21 (a '73) which you can see at the link below. Take a look and see if it's the same as yours (large lazarette area with a small, 12" square hole for the motor.

I'm currently using the 5HP Nissan 2-stroke (same lower unit as the 6HP Nissan/Tohatsu/Mercury 4-cycle single cylinder outboard). The 4-cycle N/T/Merc is only 55 lbs, so easy on the boat. It's not as smooth as the twin cylinder motors, but better than my 2-cycle single. I have measured many engines and find the new Yamaha F8 will probably fit with the lower plastic (decorative) cover removed. The cavitation plate/gear unit is small enough to go through my well. This engine is a 4-cycle twin cylinder, and about 85 lbs. It is MUCH more compact than the Honda 8HP which will NOT fit in my early boat. The Yamaha is the route I will take when finances allow.

Hope this is helpful; email if you want to talk more.

JimL



leinfam@earthlink.net

[Gerry/ BarracudaCD25]

Try removing the nuts from the bolts on the wooden motor mount using open end wrenches. This worked for me when I installed a 9.9 hp Johnson motor. It seems with the larger motors the propellor and lower unit will not clear the wooden motor mount with it already bolted it place. I had to screw it on the motor then lower the motor and mount as one unit into the well then place the motor mount bolts and nuts through the aluminum mountng bracket. This had to be reversed for removal. The smaller engines 5hp Nissan, Tohatsu or Mercury 4 stroke weigh less 55-57 pounds and can be removed at the end of a days sailing keeping the marine life from building up and inside the lower unit. Good luck.

Gerry
s/v Barracuda
Dahlgren, VA

[B.Andrews]

Linda, Although the removal of the engine from the well is not the most pleasant task, it should not involve disassembly of the motor. Our '82 CD25 originally was equipped with an Evinrude 9.9 long shaft with electric start. It was a bear of a job getting it in and out due to the cavitation plates on the lower unit. The method that worked for me was to lift, turn and tilt the motor so that the cavitation plate passed through the well openning like a button through a button hole. Be careful not to strain your back while doing this. We now have an 8 hp Evinrude Yachtwin with manual start. Its still no picnic removing an installing this engine, but it the lighter weight is easier on the back. The slightly smaller size also allows some room to turn the motor which helps turn the boat in tight situations. Good luck. BA



and10128@aol.com

[Jeff Funston]

I can email the manual I have scanned in from a CD25 someone was kind enough to send me, though its in two parts about 2.5 meg each. I disposed of my evinrude 9.9 in favor of a 6 hp nissan (Under 60 pounds) through hull is most likly for the sink.



jefffNospam@pinn.net

[John M Freeman]

Linda,
All of the advice given that I have read so far has been right on the money, I have a 9.9 Yamaha in my CD25, and it is a bear to remove. It is an older model, an 86, but the newer models are much smaller and lighter. Have heard nothiong but good things about the smaller horsepower newer engines, apearantly the Nissan 6hp works quite well, and fits the well nicely. The lift, twist and turn method is the only way I can get my old Yamaha out, and that is only after removing the control handle.



capn_jack68@yahoo.com

[Ron Brassord]

Linda,
All of the advice given that I have read so far has been right on the money, I have a 9.9 Yamaha in my CD25, and it is a bear to remove. It is an older model, an 86, but the newer models are much smaller and lighter. Have heard nothiong but good things about the smaller horsepower newer engines, apearantly the Nissan 6hp works quite well, and fits the well nicely. The lift, twist and turn method is the only way I can get my old Yamaha out, and that is only after removing the control handle.

Hi I am also running a 1991 9.9 Yamaha in my newly acquired Cd 25, and did a few things to improve the problems. I cut about one inch off the cavitation plate to make it easier to fit through the hole. I also moved the motor mount forward an inch and a half so the motor does not hit the rear of the well, using spacers. This cuts down noise and vibration. I drilled out the upper exhaust vent to fit a short piece of copper 3/8ths pipe marine texed in, then to a short hose to get the exhaust into the water. Now I can run at full speed with the hatch closed and no stalling from fumes. I removed trhe handle and added a short piece of PVS for a throttle control, and a short rod to the shift. It's almost like having an inboard.
I am in the process of painting the boat, and had the hatch removed, and learned it's much easier removing the engine with the hatch gone. I think I am going to leave the hatch in place with no hinges, just a shock cord to stabilize it.
Hope I've helped Good sailing Ron B Lighthouse Pt Fl.



RDBRASS@aol.com

[Ken Jenquin]

I can email the manual I have scanned in from a CD25 someone was kind enough to send me, though its in two parts about 2.5 meg each. I disposed of my evinrude 9.9 in favor of a 6 hp nissan (Under 60 pounds) through hull is most likly for the sink.

Jeff:
I would most appreciate you sending me the CD25 manual.
Many Thanks,
Ken



kjandjj@itol.com

[Ken Jenquin]

I can email the manual I have scanned in from a CD25 someone was kind enough to send me, though its in two parts about 2.5 meg each. I disposed of my evinrude 9.9 in favor of a 6 hp nissan (Under 60 pounds) through hull is most likly for the sink.

Jeff:
I would most appreciate you sending me the CD25 manual.
Many Thanks,
Ken



kjandjj@itol.com