Due to unattended fresh water tank leaks over the years the wood panels that make the transition from the sides of the bunks to the floor have been damaged. Since they are what seems to be mahogany 3/8 in. plywood their layers simply separated. Having repaired the leaks I am about to tackle the task of replacing the wood. If we had the plans or drawing for the interior layout we think many problems could be anticipated, especially in terms of determining which parts have to be removed in order to replace the damaged parts. This has to be done with care since the old parts have to be used as patterns for their replacements. We will gretly appreciate any ideas on this. Thanks.
Victor A.
S/V Ala Libre
melendezsal@yahoo.com
Wood interior layout in CD30
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Larry DeMers
Re: Wood interior layout in CD30
I looked at this last summer, when I had to route two 1/2 inch diameter cables from the V-Berth storage area (where my golf cart batteries are), through the starboard settee bottom/water tank area, to the starboard lazarette. It was a hard job to do, so I looked at taking the ply top off the settee box itself, and hand routing thru the area.
It appears that there is only one way to take this assembly apart. That is to go in reverse order that it was assembled in. One piece is layed over another, and without breaking anything, you have to start at the last piece mounted. As I recall, it starts like this:
First will be the shaped upper edge trim on the settee. It has 4 or 5 screws holding it down -look for the bungs. Then the top plywood piece. Then you can remove the bungs and unscrew the vertical piece that is damaged and use it for the pattern.
On our boat, this piece is teak, not mahogany. But there is certainly nothing wrong with using mahogany. I would just make the two sides match each other, as this wood will be some of the most looked at in the cabin.
How do you plan to create such a wide piece of wood (the sette front piece)? Plywood? Individual boards, edge glued with biscuits? If individual boards, remember to reverse the grains of the component boards to minimize warping (every other board gets turned upside down so the grains are alternating). Also finish the wood on all sides equally ie: put the same sealer on both sides, and the same varnish or other finish on both sides. This will also minimize warpage due to moisture. If ply, seal every edge in epoxy before final assembly, and then finish as for individual boards.
Cheers,
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30
demers@sgi.com
It appears that there is only one way to take this assembly apart. That is to go in reverse order that it was assembled in. One piece is layed over another, and without breaking anything, you have to start at the last piece mounted. As I recall, it starts like this:
First will be the shaped upper edge trim on the settee. It has 4 or 5 screws holding it down -look for the bungs. Then the top plywood piece. Then you can remove the bungs and unscrew the vertical piece that is damaged and use it for the pattern.
On our boat, this piece is teak, not mahogany. But there is certainly nothing wrong with using mahogany. I would just make the two sides match each other, as this wood will be some of the most looked at in the cabin.
How do you plan to create such a wide piece of wood (the sette front piece)? Plywood? Individual boards, edge glued with biscuits? If individual boards, remember to reverse the grains of the component boards to minimize warping (every other board gets turned upside down so the grains are alternating). Also finish the wood on all sides equally ie: put the same sealer on both sides, and the same varnish or other finish on both sides. This will also minimize warpage due to moisture. If ply, seal every edge in epoxy before final assembly, and then finish as for individual boards.
Cheers,
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30
Victor A. wrote: Due to unattended fresh water tank leaks over the years the wood panels that make the transition from the sides of the bunks to the floor have been damaged. Since they are what seems to be mahogany 3/8 in. plywood their layers simply separated. Having repaired the leaks I am about to tackle the task of replacing the wood. If we had the plans or drawing for the interior layout we think many problems could be anticipated, especially in terms of determining which parts have to be removed in order to replace the damaged parts. This has to be done with care since the old parts have to be used as patterns for their replacements. We will gretly appreciate any ideas on this. Thanks.
Victor A.
S/V Ala Libre
demers@sgi.com
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Joe Sankey
Re: Wood interior layout in CD30
If I understand what you're trying to do, I think you're going to have to remove the side pieces of the sole. On our previous 28, which as I recall was put together in an identical way to our current 30, these pieces are attached to the liner with ss screws and bunged. I believe they go in AFTER the vertical fronts of the settees; I had to replace part of one on the 28. Be careful removing them, as they have compound curves and beveled edges, so you don't want to replace them.Victor A. wrote: Due to unattended fresh water tank leaks over the years the wood panels that make the transition from the sides of the bunks to the floor have been damaged. Since they are what seems to be mahogany 3/8 in. plywood their layers simply separated. Having repaired the leaks I am about to tackle the task of replacing the wood. If we had the plans or drawing for the interior layout we think many problems could be anticipated, especially in terms of determining which parts have to be removed in order to replace the damaged parts. This has to be done with care since the old parts have to be used as patterns for their replacements. We will gretly appreciate any ideas on this. Thanks.
Victor A.
S/V Ala Libre
I'll look again when I get down to the boat, but there is a sequence to removing everything as Larry says, and in order to do some of this you may need to remove additional trim to get the panels out. This MIGHT include the door trim, and the threshold in the door. On our 30 I was able to remove the top of the settee without removing the front/top trim piece, but it may not matter which comes off first.
Joe Sankey
CD 30 Slow Dance
sankey@gulftel.com
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Larry DeMers
Re: Wood interior layout in CD30
Joe is right on the money. I forgot about those side pieces.
Those side pieces are a scribbed fit to the vertical pieces of the settee box. As Joe says, take care not to damage it in any way! To get them off, the trim around the door has to be removed. To get that off, start with taking off the threshold for the salon to head doorway, and the salon to galley transition trim possibly. It seems like a lot of work, but I don't believe there is any way to break into the midst of the assembly without destroying the previously applied piece. I did not go thru this work after seeing what is involved, so there may be a shortcut that becomes obvious after a while.
By the way..Welcome to our little group here. I believe you mentioned that you are in the Caribbean right now, and that interests me, as you probably know from my e-mail to you. I am anxious to hear about your adventures down there, and I may well take you up on your offer for advice and sailing company should we point our boat's pointy end that way soon. ;^)
Cheers,
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
CD30 Lake Superior
demers@sgi.com
Those side pieces are a scribbed fit to the vertical pieces of the settee box. As Joe says, take care not to damage it in any way! To get them off, the trim around the door has to be removed. To get that off, start with taking off the threshold for the salon to head doorway, and the salon to galley transition trim possibly. It seems like a lot of work, but I don't believe there is any way to break into the midst of the assembly without destroying the previously applied piece. I did not go thru this work after seeing what is involved, so there may be a shortcut that becomes obvious after a while.
By the way..Welcome to our little group here. I believe you mentioned that you are in the Caribbean right now, and that interests me, as you probably know from my e-mail to you. I am anxious to hear about your adventures down there, and I may well take you up on your offer for advice and sailing company should we point our boat's pointy end that way soon. ;^)
Cheers,
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
CD30 Lake Superior
Joe Sankey wrote:If I understand what you're trying to do, I think you're going to have to remove the side pieces of the sole. On our previous 28, which as I recall was put together in an identical way to our current 30, these pieces are attached to the liner with ss screws and bunged. I believe they go in AFTER the vertical fronts of the settees; I had to replace part of one on the 28. Be careful removing them, as they have compound curves and beveled edges, so you don't want to replace them.Victor A. wrote: Due to unattended fresh water tank leaks over the years the wood panels that make the transition from the sides of the bunks to the floor have been damaged. Since they are what seems to be mahogany 3/8 in. plywood their layers simply separated. Having repaired the leaks I am about to tackle the task of replacing the wood. If we had the plans or drawing for the interior layout we think many problems could be anticipated, especially in terms of determining which parts have to be removed in order to replace the damaged parts. This has to be done with care since the old parts have to be used as patterns for their replacements. We will gretly appreciate any ideas on this. Thanks.
Victor A.
S/V Ala Libre
I'll look again when I get down to the boat, but there is a sequence to removing everything as Larry says, and in order to do some of this you may need to remove additional trim to get the panels out. This MIGHT include the door trim, and the threshold in the door. On our 30 I was able to remove the top of the settee without removing the front/top trim piece, but it may not matter which comes off first.
Joe Sankey
CD 30 Slow Dance
demers@sgi.com