Bow light wiring job

Chris Scheck · Post by **Chris Scheck** » Jun 25th, '02, 07:33

I need to replace the wiring for the combination bow light on the bow pulpit on our CD33. I guess I'll replace the whole length of it, although it's just the three inches that stick out of the pulpit that are weathered and cracked. I'm wondering what kind of wire to use. Is there a marine grade with tinned wire and better insulation? Also, has anyone pulled wire like this through the pulpit? Any tricks you would recommend? Thanks.

cscheck@aol.com

Bill · Post by **Bill** » Jun 25th, '02, 08:17

Hello Chris

I did this to all of Rhapsody's running lights several years ago. I experience nothing out of the ordinary. I used a stiff wire to pull a messanger line from the light to the area below deck (Port cockpit locker and anchor well on the bow). It was a piece of cake on a 25D.

I used either 18 or 16 cage (have slept since then) paired and yes it was tinned.

Good luck and fair winds

Bill
Captain Commanding
S/V Rhapsody (the Original)
CD25D #148
Oklahoma Contingent of the NE Fleet, CDSOA, Inc.
Galley Wench S/V Evening Light
<A HREF="http://www.applegatemarina.com">Kerr Lake, OK (Oklahoma's Outlet to the Sea)</A>

Chris Scheck wrote: I need to replace the wiring for the combination bow light on the bow pulpit on our CD33. I guess I'll replace the whole length of it, although it's just the three inches that stick out of the pulpit that are weathered and cracked. I'm wondering what kind of wire to use. Is there a marine grade with tinned wire and better insulation? Also, has anyone pulled wire like this through the pulpit? Any tricks you would recommend? Thanks.

cd25d@rhapsodysails.com

Dana · Post by **Dana** » Jun 25th, '02, 08:54

Like Bill I had to replace the wiring to my bow light on my CD26 a couple of weeks ago. On my boat the existing wiring was only #18 2 conductor rubber SJ (300V) cord. Because this is basically rubber it does not fair very well over the years. It is used between the bow light and extends down the port side inside the bow pulpit where is was spliced to the interior wiring conductors. I used the existing cord to pull the new cord through. The new cord I used was #16 2 conductor, low voltage, direct burial cable which you find in most home supply stores for low voltage ground lighting systems. It had an acceptable diameter for pulling into the pulpit and was certainly better than the rubber cord inside of a hot steel pulpit in the summer.

darenius@aol.com

Dana · Post by **Dana** » Jun 25th, '02, 08:55

Like Bill I had to replace the wiring to my bow light on my CD26 a couple of weeks ago. On my boat the existing wiring was only #18 2 conductor rubber SJ (300V) cord. Because this is basically rubber it does not fair very well over the years. It is used between the bow light and extends down the port side inside the bow pulpit where is was spliced to the interior wiring conductors. I used the existing cord to pull the new cord through. The new cord I used was #16 2 conductor, low voltage, direct burial cable which you find in most home supply stores for low voltage ground lighting systems. It had an acceptable diameter for pulling into the pulpit and was certainly better than the rubber cord inside of a hot steel pulpit in the summer.

darenius@aol.com

Chris Reinke · Post by **Chris Reinke** » Jun 25th, '02, 09:26

Chris - I replaced the #18 gauge wire on my CD330 with tinned double #16 gauge. I used the old wire to pull a length of heavy twine through the pulpit and into the anchor locker. I was concerned that the old wire was not strong enough to pull new wire, and I was afraid of having it part in the middle of pulling it through. I found the rest of the wire to be in usable condition so I spliced the new and old leads together in the anchor locker.

Chris Scheck wrote: I need to replace the wiring for the combination bow light on the bow pulpit on our CD33. I guess I'll replace the whole length of it, although it's just the three inches that stick out of the pulpit that are weathered and cracked. I'm wondering what kind of wire to use. Is there a marine grade with tinned wire and better insulation? Also, has anyone pulled wire like this through the pulpit? Any tricks you would recommend? Thanks.

John R. · Post by **John R.** » Jun 25th, '02, 09:53

There are several ways to deal with that short exposed section of wire. You can rewire to just below deck and install a junction block or do a splice or run an entirely new circuit.

To deal with the short exterior exposed section and keep it from being degraded by UV I've wrapped it with black self amalgamating rigging tape and it seems to last forever. You can also use an exterior grade industrial quality black heat shrink. Those are the two methods of protecting that small wire section I have found that work quite well.

Chris Scheck wrote: I need to replace the wiring for the combination bow light on the bow pulpit on our CD33. I guess I'll replace the whole length of it, although it's just the three inches that stick out of the pulpit that are weathered and cracked. I'm wondering what kind of wire to use. Is there a marine grade with tinned wire and better insulation? Also, has anyone pulled wire like this through the pulpit? Any tricks you would recommend? Thanks.

Scott Ritchey · Post by **Scott Ritchey** » Jun 25th, '02, 22:04

Just had to replace wires to my mast/deck light because of poor quality of old wire and connectors. I like the Anchor tinned marine wire available at West, Boat US, etc. It ain't the cheapest, but I think the extra corosion protection (tinning) is well worth it. Same goes for crimp connectors, in my view. Wrapping the exposed wire with tape(mentioned in earlier post) is a good idea; you want to ptotect the wire insulation from the sun's UV.

Chris Scheck wrote: I need to replace the wiring for the combination bow light on the bow pulpit on our CD33. I guess I'll replace the whole length of it, although it's just the three inches that stick out of the pulpit that are weathered and cracked. I'm wondering what kind of wire to use. Is there a marine grade with tinned wire and better insulation? Also, has anyone pulled wire like this through the pulpit? Any tricks you would recommend? Thanks.

RitcheyVS@aol.com

Ken Coit · Post by **Ken Coit** » Jun 29th, '02, 11:02

Some "experts" recommend that you never use less than 14 Ga. tinned wire for any boat circuit and vary that by current and length.

Keep on sailing,

Ken Coit
CD/14 #538
CD/36 #84 Parfait
Hailing Port: Raleigh, NC
Sailing from: Beaufort, NC

Chris Scheck wrote: I need to replace the wiring for the combination bow light on the bow pulpit on our CD33. I guess I'll replace the whole length of it, although it's just the three inches that stick out of the pulpit that are weathered and cracked. I'm wondering what kind of wire to use. Is there a marine grade with tinned wire and better insulation? Also, has anyone pulled wire like this through the pulpit? Any tricks you would recommend? Thanks.

parfaitNOSPAM@nc.rr.com

The Cape Dory Board