I have resolved one of the issues, which were contributing, to my tachometer not functioning. I had a secondary power supply feeding back on the same circuit as the Tachometer and the alternator tap which was feeding 14.2V DC into the circuit. I corrected that problem, but the tach still does not function. I am reading 1v AC at the tach tap, and at the tachometer. The 1v is constant at all engine RPM's. What is the proper output from the tach tap? I have been told it should be a pulsing AC charge, but I am getting a constant charge. How do I test the tach tap, without pulling the alternator and taking it to the shop to be bench tested?
Any help or guidance in trouble shooting this problem would be appreciat
chris.reinke@sac.com
Tachometer problems continue..what is proper alt output?
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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D. Stump, Hanalei
Re: You answered your own question....
Captain Reinke,
Take the critter to an alternator shop and have them check it, you probably have a blown diode. Most shops I know, will check it for free, fixin' it Costs, and to rebuild about $125 or so....Also, have them check the tack lead, it should be from one diode(the one that is blown!???) on the stator. If you are wondering, have it rebuilt, you will get back an essentially NEW alternator!
Re-install, and I bet ya are done! ! !.....FWIW........your servant.....I remain...........
Dave Stump
Captain Commanding
s/v Hanalei CD-30C
CDSOA Number ONE! ! !
Take the critter to an alternator shop and have them check it, you probably have a blown diode. Most shops I know, will check it for free, fixin' it Costs, and to rebuild about $125 or so....Also, have them check the tack lead, it should be from one diode(the one that is blown!???) on the stator. If you are wondering, have it rebuilt, you will get back an essentially NEW alternator!
Re-install, and I bet ya are done! ! !.....FWIW........your servant.....I remain...........
Dave Stump
Captain Commanding
s/v Hanalei CD-30C
CDSOA Number ONE! ! !
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John R.
Re: Tachometer problems continue..what is proper alt output?
Chris,
My understanding of tach AC is that something in the area of 3 volts should be showing up at idle and I believe it should be about 5 volts or more at higher rpms like around 2000. That 1V you describe sounds like a definite problem to me especially since you say it does not change at different engine speeds. I think you may have a regulator problem and not a alternator problem. I assume the alternator is working okay and it is just that tach AC problem you are having. If that is the case then the stator and dodes have to be okay the way I understand alternators. Dave suggested a bad diode but that would affect the rectifier (DC output) I believe and so then your charge output would be affected. You haven't indicated what alternator you have, what regulator (internal or external). If you have an external regulator I would yank it first and take it to a alternator shop and have it bench tested with a known good alternator. That saves you from ripping out the alternator if not necessary. If regulator testing shows OK status then you know the alternator is next.
Dave is right about getting the entire thing rebuilt. It really doesn't cost that much and it sure saves a lot of headaches, it will come back in like new condition. I usually pay about $65 - $80 to have a Balmar or Hehr Powerline reconditioned. Also invest in a high quality regulator and have a basic cheapy backup regulator on hand that you can hook up in a pinch. You can get one for about $20.
Good luck.
My understanding of tach AC is that something in the area of 3 volts should be showing up at idle and I believe it should be about 5 volts or more at higher rpms like around 2000. That 1V you describe sounds like a definite problem to me especially since you say it does not change at different engine speeds. I think you may have a regulator problem and not a alternator problem. I assume the alternator is working okay and it is just that tach AC problem you are having. If that is the case then the stator and dodes have to be okay the way I understand alternators. Dave suggested a bad diode but that would affect the rectifier (DC output) I believe and so then your charge output would be affected. You haven't indicated what alternator you have, what regulator (internal or external). If you have an external regulator I would yank it first and take it to a alternator shop and have it bench tested with a known good alternator. That saves you from ripping out the alternator if not necessary. If regulator testing shows OK status then you know the alternator is next.
Dave is right about getting the entire thing rebuilt. It really doesn't cost that much and it sure saves a lot of headaches, it will come back in like new condition. I usually pay about $65 - $80 to have a Balmar or Hehr Powerline reconditioned. Also invest in a high quality regulator and have a basic cheapy backup regulator on hand that you can hook up in a pinch. You can get one for about $20.
Good luck.
Chris Reinke CD330 wrote: I have resolved one of the issues, which were contributing, to my tachometer not functioning. I had a secondary power supply feeding back on the same circuit as the Tachometer and the alternator tap which was feeding 14.2V DC into the circuit. I corrected that problem, but the tach still does not function. I am reading 1v AC at the tach tap, and at the tachometer. The 1v is constant at all engine RPM's. What is the proper output from the tach tap? I have been told it should be a pulsing AC charge, but I am getting a constant charge. How do I test the tach tap, without pulling the alternator and taking it to the shop to be bench tested?
Any help or guidance in trouble shooting this problem would be appreciat
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Chris
Re: Tachometer problems continue..what is proper alt output?
John - Thanks for the input. I have a single wire, "high output" alternator with an internal regulator. So it sounds like my only option is to yank it out. This is only the 3rd season with this alternator, since it replaced the original Balmar on my Universal M-35, so the thought of any rebuilding costs is not looked upon favorably. I changed to this model (which I can not recall) upon the recommendation of the guy at the alternator shop when I upgraded my batteries from 2 group 24's to 3 group 31's. I added radar and wanted to increase my storage capacity. I also added refrigeration which we only operate on shore power or while the motor is running.
John R. wrote: Chris,
My understanding of tach AC is that something in the area of 3 volts should be showing up at idle and I believe it should be about 5 volts or more at higher rpms like around 2000. That 1V you describe sounds like a definite problem to me especially since you say it does not change at different engine speeds. I think you may have a regulator problem and not a alternator problem. I assume the alternator is working okay and it is just that tach AC problem you are having. If that is the case then the stator and dodes have to be okay the way I understand alternators. Dave suggested a bad diode but that would affect the rectifier (DC output) I believe and so then your charge output would be affected. You haven't indicated what alternator you have, what regulator (internal or external). If you have an external regulator I would yank it first and take it to a alternator shop and have it bench tested with a known good alternator. That saves you from ripping out the alternator if not necessary. If regulator testing shows OK status then you know the alternator is next.
Dave is right about getting the entire thing rebuilt. It really doesn't cost that much and it sure saves a lot of headaches, it will come back in like new condition. I usually pay about $65 - $80 to have a Balmar or Hehr Powerline reconditioned. Also invest in a high quality regulator and have a basic cheapy backup regulator on hand that you can hook up in a pinch. You can get one for about $20.
Good luck.
Chris Reinke CD330 wrote: I have resolved one of the issues, which were contributing, to my tachometer not functioning. I had a secondary power supply feeding back on the same circuit as the Tachometer and the alternator tap which was feeding 14.2V DC into the circuit. I corrected that problem, but the tach still does not function. I am reading 1v AC at the tach tap, and at the tachometer. The 1v is constant at all engine RPM's. What is the proper output from the tach tap? I have been told it should be a pulsing AC charge, but I am getting a constant charge. How do I test the tach tap, without pulling the alternator and taking it to the shop to be bench tested?
Any help or guidance in trouble shooting this problem would be appreciat
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John R.
Re: Tachometer problems continue..what is proper alt output?
Chris,
If it is only a three year old high output alternator with an internal regulator I would venture this alternator was not specifically designed for the marine enviroment but that is only a guess based on what you have described. It is rare anymore(meaning last few years) that high output marine alternators have internal regulators and if they do they are usually lower amperage units. Most marine units available do not have internal regulators if they are of high output design. I would think that since your unit is only three years old and has been subjected to limited engine hours then your problem is more likely to be stemming from the regulator. Better that than the alternator itself.
If you take it to the shop (I assume you will be)I would ditch the internal regulator and have them convert it to an external field wire so you can use a quality external regulator. That should cost about $25.00, if you make that conversion you will be glad you did. Then get your self a quality regulator like a Balmar or Heart. I use a Balmar Max Charge but previously had a Heart on my boats and have sold both also. Each are very good regulators. Any one of those models would serve you well. The ones that have accessory temperature sensors for batteries or alternator have a distinct advantage over all others. In my opinion that temperature monitoring advantage is well worth the extra cost of that particular regulator. Other excellent regulators are made by Cruising Equipment, Ample Power and Hehr.
I'm a little puzzled why you didn't keep your original Balmar though.
Good luck at the alternator shop.
If it is only a three year old high output alternator with an internal regulator I would venture this alternator was not specifically designed for the marine enviroment but that is only a guess based on what you have described. It is rare anymore(meaning last few years) that high output marine alternators have internal regulators and if they do they are usually lower amperage units. Most marine units available do not have internal regulators if they are of high output design. I would think that since your unit is only three years old and has been subjected to limited engine hours then your problem is more likely to be stemming from the regulator. Better that than the alternator itself.
If you take it to the shop (I assume you will be)I would ditch the internal regulator and have them convert it to an external field wire so you can use a quality external regulator. That should cost about $25.00, if you make that conversion you will be glad you did. Then get your self a quality regulator like a Balmar or Heart. I use a Balmar Max Charge but previously had a Heart on my boats and have sold both also. Each are very good regulators. Any one of those models would serve you well. The ones that have accessory temperature sensors for batteries or alternator have a distinct advantage over all others. In my opinion that temperature monitoring advantage is well worth the extra cost of that particular regulator. Other excellent regulators are made by Cruising Equipment, Ample Power and Hehr.
I'm a little puzzled why you didn't keep your original Balmar though.
Good luck at the alternator shop.
Chris wrote: John - Thanks for the input. I have a single wire, "high output" alternator with an internal regulator. So it sounds like my only option is to yank it out. This is only the 3rd season with this alternator, since it replaced the original Balmar on my Universal M-35, so the thought of any rebuilding costs is not looked upon favorably. I changed to this model (which I can not recall) upon the recommendation of the guy at the alternator shop when I upgraded my batteries from 2 group 24's to 3 group 31's. I added radar and wanted to increase my storage capacity. I also added refrigeration which we only operate on shore power or while the motor is running.
John R. wrote: Chris,
My understanding of tach AC is that something in the area of 3 volts should be showing up at idle and I believe it should be about 5 volts or more at higher rpms like around 2000. That 1V you describe sounds like a definite problem to me especially since you say it does not change at different engine speeds. I think you may have a regulator problem and not a alternator problem. I assume the alternator is working okay and it is just that tach AC problem you are having. If that is the case then the stator and dodes have to be okay the way I understand alternators. Dave suggested a bad diode but that would affect the rectifier (DC output) I believe and so then your charge output would be affected. You haven't indicated what alternator you have, what regulator (internal or external). If you have an external regulator I would yank it first and take it to a alternator shop and have it bench tested with a known good alternator. That saves you from ripping out the alternator if not necessary. If regulator testing shows OK status then you know the alternator is next.
Dave is right about getting the entire thing rebuilt. It really doesn't cost that much and it sure saves a lot of headaches, it will come back in like new condition. I usually pay about $65 - $80 to have a Balmar or Hehr Powerline reconditioned. Also invest in a high quality regulator and have a basic cheapy backup regulator on hand that you can hook up in a pinch. You can get one for about $20.
Good luck.
Chris Reinke CD330 wrote: I have resolved one of the issues, which were contributing, to my tachometer not functioning. I had a secondary power supply feeding back on the same circuit as the Tachometer and the alternator tap which was feeding 14.2V DC into the circuit. I corrected that problem, but the tach still does not function. I am reading 1v AC at the tach tap, and at the tachometer. The 1v is constant at all engine RPM's. What is the proper output from the tach tap? I have been told it should be a pulsing AC charge, but I am getting a constant charge. How do I test the tach tap, without pulling the alternator and taking it to the shop to be bench tested?
Any help or guidance in trouble shooting this problem would be appreciat