Early (VERY early) Typhoons

[Peter Bigelow]

I would appreciate any input or information from this group regarding circa 1969-1970 Typhoons. In particular I understand that they differed from more recent models both because they were NOT self bailing and the mast was NOT mounted to the deck but instead was mounted to the keel -- through the trunk cabin top. Are these two facts correct? If so, what potential problems should I be looking for that would not typically occur with newer Typhoons? Any input would be helpful as I look at used boats. Equally, was their a "better" year that, if possible, I should be looking for. Thanks for your comments!



peterbigelow@msn.com

[Robert M Paterson]

I would appreciate any input or information from this group regarding circa 1969-1970 Typhoons. In particular I understand that they differed from more recent models both because they were NOT self bailing and the mast was NOT mounted to the deck but instead was mounted to the keel -- through the trunk cabin top. Are these two facts correct? If so, what potential problems should I be looking for that would not typically occur with newer Typhoons? Any input would be helpful as I look at used boats. Equally, was their a "better" year that, if possible, I should be looking for. Thanks for your comments!

Peter, I have an early restored Ty, 1969, hull #27 that is not self bailing. Sailing in 15 - 20kts, heavy seas, rail buried (you get the picture)she is a surprisingly dry proper little yacht. For that ocasional green water that comes on board I installed a bilge pump,routing the overboard discharge under the cabin sole to a throughull fitting above the water line. Power is suppled from a small "Power Gell" deep cycle marine sealed gell battery, installed in the bilge. One charge lasts the complete summer season. This same batery also runs the running lights, compass light, and 2 small cabin lights if required. The mast is also set through the cabin top to the keel. The draw back to this is ease of setup and take-down if you are trailering and launching frequently. Otherwise setup and take-down once per year is not a problem. On the positive side there is no worry about cabin top stress problems and the support post that is required.(There is a few topics on this board regarding this problem) I prefer the through to hull set up,I think it gives a more positive sail to the vessel under heavy sailing conditions. (though know doubt i will get some feed back on that statement):) I dont know if there was a "better year" I do know that a well cared for vessal will pay you back tenfold,and as with all Ty,s you have a head start. They are a great little yacht. Buy one and enjoy!




wskyr3d@aol.com

[John H.]

I would echo what Bob wrote.
I have hull #28 (1968, go figure). I am thinking of placing a compression post and converting to a cabin stepped mast for trailering ease. Some other concerns:
Garboard Drain: A through-hull drain in the lowest part of the bilge for hauling and storage. I pulled mine because it leaked and glassed over the hole, and now I regret it for the water that builds up during storage.
Mahogany Trim: My combing, rub and toe rails are all mahogany instead of teak. It is beautiful old wood but needs to be varnished yearly, and probably is not easily replaced. (Mahogany ethical issues, and impossible to get stock wide enough for combing without gluing up)
Head Through-Hulls: The porcelain toilet had been removed from my boat, but the gigantic through-hull fittings took up valuable storage/cabin sole space. I removed and glassed over these.
Bilge Pump: Like Bob said, this is essential and should require once-a-season charging.
Chain-Plate Rot: Look at the anchor blocks for the shroud chain plate tangs inside - mine were mahogany composites bonded to the hull. They were so dry-rotten that I could remove the SS screws by hand. If yours are not solid, let me know and I will send you my replacement plans.
Roller Furling: Very cumbersome to use, easily converts to jiffy reefing with some reef points added.

She sails comfortably, particularly in strong winds and chop, and always looks beautiful. John H.



jhalpo@rcn.com

[Robert M Paterson]

I would echo what Bob wrote.
I have hull #28 (1968, go figure). I am thinking of placing a compression post and converting to a cabin stepped mast for trailering ease. Some other concerns:
Garboard Drain: A through-hull drain in the lowest part of the bilge for hauling and storage. I pulled mine because it leaked and glassed over the hole, and now I regret it for the water that builds up during storage.
Mahogany Trim: My combing, rub and toe rails are all mahogany instead of teak. It is beautiful old wood but needs to be varnished yearly, and probably is not easily replaced. (Mahogany ethical issues, and impossible to get stock wide enough for combing without gluing up)
Head Through-Hulls: The porcelain toilet had been removed from my boat, but the gigantic through-hull fittings took up valuable storage/cabin sole space. I removed and glassed over these.
Bilge Pump: Like Bob said, this is essential and should require once-a-season charging.
Chain-Plate Rot: Look at the anchor blocks for the shroud chain plate tangs inside - mine were mahogany composites bonded to the hull. They were so dry-rotten that I could remove the SS screws by hand. If yours are not solid, let me know and I will send you my replacement plans.
Roller Furling: Very cumbersome to use, easily converts to jiffy reefing with some reef points added.

She sails comfortably, particularly in strong winds and chop, and always looks beautiful. John H.

John,nice to see an other"old timer" out there. You mention converting to a cabintop set up.Are you going to use existing mast,cutting of the approx 2 ft and replacing existing riging?.Yes also have mahogany combing, rub and toe rails,also cabin bulk head and seating.This wood can be purchased in widths and lths exceeding the dimensions for any replacment required without gluing up or splicing.Is a LOT! cheaper than Teak, easy to work with, and varnishes beautifuly. Porcelain toilet was also removed and porta-potie installed in it's place Fits in perfectly. left the through - hull fittings in place,they werent in the way and just never got round to taking them out and glassing in the void. Mast is origl,no roller furling, new boom previous owner replaced.All hardware is up to-date, boom vang, main sheet system, adjustable genoa leeds,topping lift, whisker pole track on mast, etc. Never found any blisters,but barrier coated hull.Orig gell coat in great condition. Boat is covered under canvas at her mooring,this certainly cuts down on the varnish upkeep,recommend this to anyone who wants to keep this to a minumum. Hope this helps Bob



Wskyr3d@aol.com