I will be installing the wheel pilot ST4000 MarkII within the next few weeks, and am eager to hear from those who have done this install. I have comments from Ed Healy (thanks, Ed), and wonder about the experiences of others.
Warnings of pitfalls and tips would be greatly appreciated.
As always, every best wish.
Mitchell Bober
RESPITE
CD330
Help--Installation of Raymarine (AutoHelm) ST4000/II
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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D. Stump, Hanalei
Re: Help--Installation of Raymarine (AutoHelm) ST4000/II
Captain Bober,
A few things I did:
1. Remove the pedestal guard and take it honme to drill the hole to route the wire through the guard. The guard is stainless and tough to drill. Also, when you do run the wire, pass it through an appropriate grommet to avoid chafe of the wire. I've seen too many installations where someone just used friction tape on the wire. Not pretty!
2. When you drill through the guard foot, more than likely the hole will go through the "I" beam that supports the steering sheaves. Not a problem, just takes a long drill. I passed a string with a small weight(nail) through the hole and used the string to pull the wire through.
3. Get the right sized hole saw to cut the display head mounting hole, I got mine from a True Value Hardware store fairly cheap. Ah, I suppose you could also use a RotoZip, but I haven't used one yet.
Other than that, all it takes is time. Oh, I mounted the flux gate compass in the aft end of the starboard seatee, as low down and as close to center of gravity as I could get. Running wires is a pain, but as I said, all it takes is time and a good wire snake!
Dave Stump
Hanalei
A few things I did:
1. Remove the pedestal guard and take it honme to drill the hole to route the wire through the guard. The guard is stainless and tough to drill. Also, when you do run the wire, pass it through an appropriate grommet to avoid chafe of the wire. I've seen too many installations where someone just used friction tape on the wire. Not pretty!
2. When you drill through the guard foot, more than likely the hole will go through the "I" beam that supports the steering sheaves. Not a problem, just takes a long drill. I passed a string with a small weight(nail) through the hole and used the string to pull the wire through.
3. Get the right sized hole saw to cut the display head mounting hole, I got mine from a True Value Hardware store fairly cheap. Ah, I suppose you could also use a RotoZip, but I haven't used one yet.
Other than that, all it takes is time. Oh, I mounted the flux gate compass in the aft end of the starboard seatee, as low down and as close to center of gravity as I could get. Running wires is a pain, but as I said, all it takes is time and a good wire snake!
Dave Stump
Hanalei
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Robert
Re: Help--Installation of Raymarine (AutoHelm) ST4000/II
Don't forget to put a fuse in the 12V power supply circuit. I also put a single-pole, single-throw toggle switch (from Radio Shack) in the power supply line on the inside of the cabin bulkhead near the back of where the control unit is mounted. I also mounted the fluxgate unit beneath the aft part of the starboard settee, although this may be a tad too close to the engine.
You'll definitely like your auto pilot; it's a great addition to any boat.
Good Luck,
Robert s/v Zephyr CD28 #230
You'll definitely like your auto pilot; it's a great addition to any boat.
Good Luck,
Robert s/v Zephyr CD28 #230
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Ed Haley
Re: Help--Installation of Raymarine (AutoHelm) ST4000/II
Hi, Mitch:
Captain Stump did about the same as I did. He's also right about the routing of the wires being a pain. This routing probably requires the greatest amount of pre-thought as you sit in the cabin with the proper amount of grog relishing the supreme rewards of autopilot installation on your sailing enjoyment.
I installed my 4000W on a CD28. As you know, I have a CD330 now and haven't given it much thought to the wiring since it already has an autopilot. However, as I indicated before, the position of the autopilot is the most critical part of your installation. It must be located far enough (6 ft minimum) from the engine. The 4000W (probably 1995) I installed had to be on a vertical wall athwartship as close to the centerline as possible. You can adjust for a fore or aft facing mounting attitude.
When you're finished, I'd like to know how you did it because I might need to upgrade my autopilot next year (after I purchase a new genny, which comes after a main traveler system, that follows a ....).
Fraternally,
Ed Haley
Captain Mokita
CD330 #1
eghaley@twcny.rr.com
Captain Stump did about the same as I did. He's also right about the routing of the wires being a pain. This routing probably requires the greatest amount of pre-thought as you sit in the cabin with the proper amount of grog relishing the supreme rewards of autopilot installation on your sailing enjoyment.
I installed my 4000W on a CD28. As you know, I have a CD330 now and haven't given it much thought to the wiring since it already has an autopilot. However, as I indicated before, the position of the autopilot is the most critical part of your installation. It must be located far enough (6 ft minimum) from the engine. The 4000W (probably 1995) I installed had to be on a vertical wall athwartship as close to the centerline as possible. You can adjust for a fore or aft facing mounting attitude.
When you're finished, I'd like to know how you did it because I might need to upgrade my autopilot next year (after I purchase a new genny, which comes after a main traveler system, that follows a ....).
Fraternally,
Ed Haley
Captain Mokita
CD330 #1
eghaley@twcny.rr.com