Fuel tank
Moderator: Jim Walsh
Fuel tank
I am in the process of purchasing a 1980 CD30C. Unfortunately, the aft fuel tank is missing and I would like to replace it. Does anyone know a source where a drop in replacement can be bought? Is anyone making this specific tank?
Otherwise, if I have to have one custom made, does anyone know the dimensions, size of holes, etc. Where could I get one made? How much are we talking about? BIG BUCKS???
Many thanks!
paulhstn@aol.com
Otherwise, if I have to have one custom made, does anyone know the dimensions, size of holes, etc. Where could I get one made? How much are we talking about? BIG BUCKS???
Many thanks!
paulhstn@aol.com
Re: Fuel tank
Paul,
Congrats! The CD30 is a great example of big boat qualities in a pocket cruiser..you will love her.
Your 1980 CD30c is only 3 yrs. older than my '83, but you have two tanks fitted, apparently as original equipment(?) while mine was built with a single tank, located in the port lazarette, alongside the alcohol tank. Yours is the first CD30 I have heard of with two tanks, in fact, so it makes me wonder if this was not a previous owners addition that was removed for some reason, previous to your purchase.
Where was the extra tank located?
Check West Marine and Defender Ind. catalogs for fuel tanks of all shapes and sizes. You might analyze your need for that much tankage though, as once installed and filled, you will have to maintain that tank against condensation accumulation and fuel fouling. Even an empty tank will need to be maintained against water accumulation.
Now if you are planning a long journey, and will be taking long legs between refueling points, then two tanks would be needed alright. An argument against the extra tank in addition to the above, regards the location of the tank in the boat and it's effect on the boats balance.
A lot of CD30's seem to be butt heavy, I suspect due to the Volvo MD7a/b that is usually fitted. The boat was designed for a lighter Yanmar or other engine in the 250lb category, but the Volvo is a 440 lb cast iron beast that will run forever if cared for. That much additional weight puts her a bit stern heavy. So adding another tank (if unnecessary)behind the keel, would make that situation worse yet. So perhaps the best solution would be a portable or temporary tank for the journey only..maybe then it is removed when not needed, and stowed ashore. (might there be one ashore somewhere, now?)
Anyone else out there with two factory installed tanks?
Cheers,
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30
demers@sgi.com
Congrats! The CD30 is a great example of big boat qualities in a pocket cruiser..you will love her.
Your 1980 CD30c is only 3 yrs. older than my '83, but you have two tanks fitted, apparently as original equipment(?) while mine was built with a single tank, located in the port lazarette, alongside the alcohol tank. Yours is the first CD30 I have heard of with two tanks, in fact, so it makes me wonder if this was not a previous owners addition that was removed for some reason, previous to your purchase.
Where was the extra tank located?
Check West Marine and Defender Ind. catalogs for fuel tanks of all shapes and sizes. You might analyze your need for that much tankage though, as once installed and filled, you will have to maintain that tank against condensation accumulation and fuel fouling. Even an empty tank will need to be maintained against water accumulation.
Now if you are planning a long journey, and will be taking long legs between refueling points, then two tanks would be needed alright. An argument against the extra tank in addition to the above, regards the location of the tank in the boat and it's effect on the boats balance.
A lot of CD30's seem to be butt heavy, I suspect due to the Volvo MD7a/b that is usually fitted. The boat was designed for a lighter Yanmar or other engine in the 250lb category, but the Volvo is a 440 lb cast iron beast that will run forever if cared for. That much additional weight puts her a bit stern heavy. So adding another tank (if unnecessary)behind the keel, would make that situation worse yet. So perhaps the best solution would be a portable or temporary tank for the journey only..maybe then it is removed when not needed, and stowed ashore. (might there be one ashore somewhere, now?)
Anyone else out there with two factory installed tanks?
Cheers,
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30
Paul Hierstein wrote: I am in the process of purchasing a 1980 CD30C. Unfortunately, the aft fuel tank is missing and I would like to replace it. Does anyone know a source where a drop in replacement can be bought? Is anyone making this specific tank?
Otherwise, if I have to have one custom made, does anyone know the dimensions, size of holes, etc. Where could I get one made? How much are we talking about? BIG BUCKS???
Many thanks!
demers@sgi.com
Re: Nope, not in '84......
Larry & Paul,
The 1984 Cape Dory 30 C has an 18 gallon (approx) stainless fuel tank that penetrates through the cabine after bulkhead and into the Port lazzerette as Larry describes. 18 gallons lasts us, with a Universal 18, 14 HP diesel, a whole year. We SAIL, we don't motor! I've no idea what you would replace that tank with, but I do know this, the tank as is, will NOT fit through the lazzerette hatch opening. I measured it, the vessel was built around the tank!!!Go figure.........
Dave Stump
Captain Commanding
s/v Hanalei CD-30C
CDSOA #1
The 1984 Cape Dory 30 C has an 18 gallon (approx) stainless fuel tank that penetrates through the cabine after bulkhead and into the Port lazzerette as Larry describes. 18 gallons lasts us, with a Universal 18, 14 HP diesel, a whole year. We SAIL, we don't motor! I've no idea what you would replace that tank with, but I do know this, the tank as is, will NOT fit through the lazzerette hatch opening. I measured it, the vessel was built around the tank!!!Go figure.........
Dave Stump
Captain Commanding
s/v Hanalei CD-30C
CDSOA #1
Re: Nope, not in '84......
Larry, Paul & Dave
I'll just say Captain Stump's comments apply equally to my 1986 CD 30 (Hull # 358). As Larry observed, if you are doing long range cruising, an extra fuel tank might be nice to keep the decks clear of jerry cans. I have the Universal Model 18(14HP) so don't have the engine weight problem Larry described but I still sit pretty low in the stern. Since I just added dinghy davits, I may well sit lower yet.
Will
"Jambalaya"
Larry & Paul,
whildenp@earthlink.net
I'll just say Captain Stump's comments apply equally to my 1986 CD 30 (Hull # 358). As Larry observed, if you are doing long range cruising, an extra fuel tank might be nice to keep the decks clear of jerry cans. I have the Universal Model 18(14HP) so don't have the engine weight problem Larry described but I still sit pretty low in the stern. Since I just added dinghy davits, I may well sit lower yet.
Will
"Jambalaya"
Larry & Paul,
D. Stump, Hanalei wrote: The 1984 Cape Dory 30 C has an 18 gallon (approx) stainless fuel tank that penetrates through the cabine after bulkhead and into the Port lazzerette as Larry describes. 18 gallons lasts us, with a Universal 18, 14 HP diesel, a whole year. We SAIL, we don't motor! I've no idea what you would replace that tank with, but I do know this, the tank as is, will NOT fit through the lazzerette hatch opening. I measured it, the vessel was built around the tank!!!Go figure.........
Dave Stump
Captain Commanding
s/v Hanalei CD-30C
CDSOA #1
whildenp@earthlink.net
Re: Nope, not in '84......
We had to replace Rhapsody's fuel tank after our mechanic discovered a pinhole leak from creeping corrosion in the original (1982) tank. During the off-season he removed it and replaced it with a custom-made stainless-steel 13 gallon tank. He told us that the hull must have been built around the tank, as he had to cut it in half to remove it. The whole thing, tank with gauge and labor was $428. We might have gotten away cheaper with a stock tank, but we're happy with the result. Be sure you have a fuel shut off valve installed if you don't already have one. AYBC requires it.
As a plus, an annoying diesel smell disappeared and the bilge was much sweeter.
Mario
s/v Rhapsody
CD30 #252
capedory252@aol.com
As a plus, an annoying diesel smell disappeared and the bilge was much sweeter.
Mario
s/v Rhapsody
CD30 #252
capedory252@aol.com
Re: Nope, not in '84......
Will,
I corrected my imbalanced CD30 (1983) with 270 lbs of sandbags in the storage area under the Vberth, close in to the centerline of the boat. I have written a lot about this change, and the 12+ benefits that we noted in the first year. Mainly, your boats motion will improve, as you will carry straight thru the waves you are beating into, instead of rocking back, then reacting by rocking forward...all wasted energy and speed killing behaviors. For the princely sum of less than $6.00, you can configure your boat to sail flat fore to aft, and you will pick up speed due to this.
A couple years after I installed 270 lbs of sand, we decided to put in a set of Golf Cart Batteries, and the area that fit the bank and the case I had to make was the area under the vberth, occupied by the ballast sand. So out went 180 lbs of sand, and in went our big reefer bank, but we did leave in about 90 lbs in some smaller areas under the batteries..all triple enclosed in heavy plastic bags wrapped with duct tape for abrasion resistance to any movement the bags should encounter.
Boat is deadnuts on her lines fore to aft, getting the exhaust higher out of the water when motoring..cleaning up the famous Volvo mustache (I also put an exhaust elbow on external to the boat, so that exhaust is directed to the water and that really helps the noise and moustache).
Try it..not much to lose..
Cheers,
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
CD30 Sailing --on the level-- on Lake Superior
demers@sgi.com
I corrected my imbalanced CD30 (1983) with 270 lbs of sandbags in the storage area under the Vberth, close in to the centerline of the boat. I have written a lot about this change, and the 12+ benefits that we noted in the first year. Mainly, your boats motion will improve, as you will carry straight thru the waves you are beating into, instead of rocking back, then reacting by rocking forward...all wasted energy and speed killing behaviors. For the princely sum of less than $6.00, you can configure your boat to sail flat fore to aft, and you will pick up speed due to this.
A couple years after I installed 270 lbs of sand, we decided to put in a set of Golf Cart Batteries, and the area that fit the bank and the case I had to make was the area under the vberth, occupied by the ballast sand. So out went 180 lbs of sand, and in went our big reefer bank, but we did leave in about 90 lbs in some smaller areas under the batteries..all triple enclosed in heavy plastic bags wrapped with duct tape for abrasion resistance to any movement the bags should encounter.
Boat is deadnuts on her lines fore to aft, getting the exhaust higher out of the water when motoring..cleaning up the famous Volvo mustache (I also put an exhaust elbow on external to the boat, so that exhaust is directed to the water and that really helps the noise and moustache).
Try it..not much to lose..
Cheers,
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
CD30 Sailing --on the level-- on Lake Superior
will Parker wrote: Larry, Paul & Dave
I'll just say Captain Stump's comments apply equally to my 1986 CD 30 (Hull # 358). As Larry observed, if you are doing long range cruising, an extra fuel tank might be nice to keep the decks clear of jerry cans. I have the Universal Model 18(14HP) so don't have the engine weight problem Larry described but I still sit pretty low in the stern. Since I just added dinghy davits, I may well sit lower yet.
Will
"Jambalaya"
Larry & Paul,
D. Stump, Hanalei wrote: The 1984 Cape Dory 30 C has an 18 gallon (approx) stainless fuel tank that penetrates through the cabine after bulkhead and into the Port lazzerette as Larry describes. 18 gallons lasts us, with a Universal 18, 14 HP diesel, a whole year. We SAIL, we don't motor! I've no idea what you would replace that tank with, but I do know this, the tank as is, will NOT fit through the lazzerette hatch opening. I measured it, the vessel was built around the tank!!!Go figure.........
Dave Stump
Captain Commanding
s/v Hanalei CD-30C
CDSOA #1
demers@sgi.com
Re: Fuel tank
paul
for long trips i have carried 5 plastic 6 gal gerry cans of diesel, 3 of them lashed into the cockpit (i have some very strong C straps bolted in that they attach to) and one each in the cockpit lockers port and starboard - that's a total of 50 gallons, at least 100 hours of engine operating - as the good captain Stump wrote, a single tank with 20 gallons is more than enough for routine use
len
md.frel@nwh.org
for long trips i have carried 5 plastic 6 gal gerry cans of diesel, 3 of them lashed into the cockpit (i have some very strong C straps bolted in that they attach to) and one each in the cockpit lockers port and starboard - that's a total of 50 gallons, at least 100 hours of engine operating - as the good captain Stump wrote, a single tank with 20 gallons is more than enough for routine use
len
md.frel@nwh.org
Correction re: Cost of replacing tank.
Correction. The tank was $428, the labor remove the old one and install the new one was $725. Sorry for the error.
Mario
capedory252@aol.com
Mario
Mario wrote: We had to replace Rhapsody's fuel tank after our mechanic discovered a pinhole leak from creeping corrosion in the original (1982) tank. During the off-season he removed it and replaced it with a custom-made stainless-steel 13 gallon tank. He told us that the hull must have been built around the tank, as he had to cut it in half to remove it. The whole thing, tank with gauge and labor was $428. We might have gotten away cheaper with a stock tank, but we're happy with the result. Be sure you have a fuel shut off valve installed if you don't already have one. AYBC requires it.
As a plus, an annoying diesel smell disappeared and the bilge was much sweeter.
Mario
s/v Rhapsody
CD30 #252
capedory252@aol.com
2 fuel tanks installed
Larry,
My 1977 CD30 Ketch has two 12 gallon steel tanks which are original equipment. They are installed outboard of the cockpit, port & stbd, about 6 inches below deck level.
Any new tank should be dimensioned to fit through the cockpit hatches. A friend of my had to replace the fuel tank on his Pearson last year. They had to remove the engine in order to gain access for the tanks.
Olli Wendelin
BLUE MOON
Charleston, SC
wendelin@spawar.navy.mil
My 1977 CD30 Ketch has two 12 gallon steel tanks which are original equipment. They are installed outboard of the cockpit, port & stbd, about 6 inches below deck level.
Any new tank should be dimensioned to fit through the cockpit hatches. A friend of my had to replace the fuel tank on his Pearson last year. They had to remove the engine in order to gain access for the tanks.
Olli Wendelin
BLUE MOON
Charleston, SC
wendelin@spawar.navy.mil
Re: 2 fuel tanks installed
Olli,
Thanks for responding. Alright, so the folks at Cape Dory had some options that they offered buyers apparently, with the double fuel tanks being one of them (I suspect that they offered a couple teak options as well, as there seems to be a difference there too..some have a teak bowsprit, while some have ash or oak).
Good advice too, about sizing those tanks to fit throught the cockpit lazarette opening. Mine are too large to fit through that opening, I am pretty sure. Pulling the engine or cutting the tank up inside the boat first, then pulling the pieces out seem to be the only alternatives. A messy job one way or the other.
Cheers,
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Larry,
demers@sgi.com
Thanks for responding. Alright, so the folks at Cape Dory had some options that they offered buyers apparently, with the double fuel tanks being one of them (I suspect that they offered a couple teak options as well, as there seems to be a difference there too..some have a teak bowsprit, while some have ash or oak).
Good advice too, about sizing those tanks to fit throught the cockpit lazarette opening. Mine are too large to fit through that opening, I am pretty sure. Pulling the engine or cutting the tank up inside the boat first, then pulling the pieces out seem to be the only alternatives. A messy job one way or the other.
Cheers,
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Larry,
Olli Wendelin wrote: My 1977 CD30 Ketch has two 12 gallon steel tanks which are original equipment. They are installed outboard of the cockpit, port & stbd, about 6 inches below deck level.
Any new tank should be dimensioned to fit through the cockpit hatches. A friend of my had to replace the fuel tank on his Pearson last year. They had to remove the engine in order to gain access for the tanks.
Olli Wendelin
BLUE MOON
Charleston, SC
demers@sgi.com
Re: Fuel tank
paul;
try florida marine tanks in miami. tel 305/620-9030. i just replaced the fuel tank on my cd28 with an aluminum 14 gal tank for $150.
tank comes complete with 12v sending unit [no gauge]. nice people to work with. ask for Javier or Arlett.
Jack
try florida marine tanks in miami. tel 305/620-9030. i just replaced the fuel tank on my cd28 with an aluminum 14 gal tank for $150.
tank comes complete with 12v sending unit [no gauge]. nice people to work with. ask for Javier or Arlett.
Jack
Re: Fuel tank
Larry,
See Joe MacPhee's entry on the tread above - VERY interesting.
F/W, Leo
See Joe MacPhee's entry on the tread above - VERY interesting.
F/W, Leo
CAUTION: Do not cut fuel tanks
Larry,
I would caution against cutting fuel tanks.
I worked as environmental engineer a few years ago. One of my jobs was excavating fuel oil tanks and then cutting them up. We kept dry ice in the tanks during the whole process to prevent fire or explosion. I saw several documentary films of tank explosions killing the people cutting on them. Diesel is pretty safe, but grinding or cutting can light it off.
Many years ago I was brazing a gas tank pinhole leak. Normally you fill the tank with water, but it leaked through the pinhole (I hadn't learned the dry ice trick yet). So I brazed with the tank dry. The gas vapors exploded with a pop and the tank got a little bigger. After kicking myself for doing something stupid, I figured the vapors were now gone and it was safe, so I started brazing again. Again the tank popped and got a little bigger. At this point I patched the tank with epoxy.
Olli Wendelin
BLUE MOON
Charleston, SC
wendelin@spawar.navy.mil
I would caution against cutting fuel tanks.
I worked as environmental engineer a few years ago. One of my jobs was excavating fuel oil tanks and then cutting them up. We kept dry ice in the tanks during the whole process to prevent fire or explosion. I saw several documentary films of tank explosions killing the people cutting on them. Diesel is pretty safe, but grinding or cutting can light it off.
Many years ago I was brazing a gas tank pinhole leak. Normally you fill the tank with water, but it leaked through the pinhole (I hadn't learned the dry ice trick yet). So I brazed with the tank dry. The gas vapors exploded with a pop and the tank got a little bigger. After kicking myself for doing something stupid, I figured the vapors were now gone and it was safe, so I started brazing again. Again the tank popped and got a little bigger. At this point I patched the tank with epoxy.
Olli Wendelin
BLUE MOON
Charleston, SC
wendelin@spawar.navy.mil